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I am not sure if I called them the right name or not. They are the pieces that staple to the inner fender near the inside of the upper A-arm. To keep water dirt etc. off the engine. How do you staple the new ones in place?? Thanks


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Steve
 

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I helped my father do the ones on his 1968 Camaro. They were truely a pain in the A$$. If I remeber correctly I held the flat side of the staple while he bent in the ends. The probelm was two things: The staples were fairly hard to bend. Number two and the biggest, the holes weren't drilled or didn't match up(can't remember been 4 years) I think I remeber seeing a post on this site a good while ago that addressed the drilling and postioning probelm.

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Bryan Shook
www.geocities.com/motorcity/speedway/6673
Favorite Quote: Some people have shrinks. Some people have their garage.
 

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Slime,

I hope you get some good responses on this one as I just picked up a new set for my wells and was going to post the same question. My wells are out of the car but it looks as though, as Bryan said, its going to be a two man process, one to hold the staples in while one bends them on the other side.

I'll be keeping an eye on this post for all ideas.

Rich

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70 SS - L34
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This came from Gilbert Propes, noted musclecar restorer, in a seminar he gave. Instead of the staples supplied with the shields, use 18 ga galvanized floral stem wire and cut and bend it to make staples. It's much easier to bend and work with and looks like factory staples. I did this with good results. If going in steel inner fenders use the factory holes or, if new IF's, pre drill the holes. Most original unrestored Chevelles I've seen have the shields on the engine side of the inner fender (factory method). I think it looks better with them on the tire side and many show cars have them like that.

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von '69 300 Dlx SS Murphy's Law is always in effect
 

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I will be using this method on my own car soon. Use 3M Weatherstrip Adhesive to glue them in place, so they don't move around. Make marks in the rubber using a staple to get the required spacing and drill small holes from the opposite side. Then install the staple and bend it as the factory did. I hope I helped
 

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Good tip Von. I bought a pair of these flaps last April when I did my engine swap but couldn't figure out how to use the staples without hurting my hands or leaving it looking just plain sloppy. So I put them back in the box and forgot about them.mgg
 

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After puncturing everything BUT the flaps (fingers etc), I gave up and used small stainless sheet metal screws. Space them evenly and it looks pretty cool. Plus they can be removed or have staples used at a later date.

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"SSuper Dave" Palmer
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Team Chevelle #32 Gold
1968 Chevelle
1991 Z/28
1970 El Camino
 

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I say the demonstration using floral wire at the ACES Nationals and it sure made sense. I have to do my El Camino and have been ignoring the new set of flaps in my parts storage for over a year. Maybe I will try this weekend since this reminds me of a simple way to do it. Good luck
 

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I think that tip about using the 18 guage floral wire should be put in an archive or somewhere. It sounds like a really good idea, I'm sure it will save hours!

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Bryan Shook
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Favorite Quote: Some people have shrinks. Some people have their garage.
 

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I put new oneson my 66 last March , used the orig.hole in fender and pushed the staple thru it and bent the ends on the other side looks like orig. not that hard, metal fenders tho....
Rick
 

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I tried the staples that came with my splash shields--but gave up real quick. Used medium sized paper clip wire. Cut in about one inch pieces, bend the same shape as the staples, and insert and bend over. They bend a heck of a lot easier than those staples and look almost the same.

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Great tips for using the staples. On my driver I positioned the a-arm shields then drilled five evenly spaced holes through the flap into the steel inner fender then instead of staples I used those plastic push in gizmos like used on newer cars. Not original, but very functional.

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70 Monte 72 El Camino
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I used the staples supplied with the splash shield kit and it was not easy. I recommend to anyone trying this to use a stainless wire cut and bent just like the staple; thinner than the kit staples. Have a second person help you. The kit staples will rust very easily so go with stainless or galvanized.

I placed the staples approximately where they were shown in my assembly manual(1969)then drilled very small holes and inserted the staples. It would be very helpful to have a second person to hold the staple while you bend it. I liked the idea of one of the previous posts about gluing it in place first. I'm going to try that on my next attempt.
 

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I just finihed putting the staples on my splash seals. If you are missing holes find a small drill bit and drill them no big deal.
Use the staples supplied and bend them with a small punch it would make it simple if the inners were out of the car. If you are looking for originality the plants had different methods of installing them. The Atlanta plant placed the seal from under the inner and the staples were also put in from under the inners and are facing and bent inside the engine compartment. I spoke to people that have low milage 70 cars and they verified the positioning of the seals and staples.
 
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