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I made my own s/s headers, last forever. I used 3/8" head plate for where they bolt to the heads & 5/16" thick for the collector flanges. I think thickness in these places is the thing to look for, for reliable, leak free operation.
 

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Real question is do they fit. Header clearance is not good on 64-67 with lots of name brand headers. Who knows if the Chinese got it right. Also there are many grades of stainless. You have to figure Chinese headers are going to be low grade stainless and will probably rust.

Not that I'm against Chinese products. If I knew they fit I would consider buying them. If you get them and they fit be sure to reply to this thread.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Real question is do they fit. Header clearance is not good on 64-67 with lots of name brand headers. Who knows if the Chinese got it right. Also there are many grades of stainless. You have to figure Chinese headers are going to be low grade stainless and will probably rust.

Not that I'm against Chinese products. If I knew they fit I would consider buying them. If you get them and they fit be sure to reply to this thread.
Yes I have same doubts as you.
Will see if I try a set even brand namn of shelf headers dont fit well and at least my 15 year old cheramic coated set has started to rust even thought I live in warm and dry climate.
 

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Anyone tried this?
Chevy 396 502 1970 -72 Camaro 1964-74 Chevelle Stainless Steel Headers | eBay
I know chinese but looks ok on the pictures only 64-67 stainless headers I can find so curious if they fit and quality is decent.
Just an observation, but where the tubes are welded to the flanges. It appears that the welds are only on the outside of the flange and do not penetrate very far to the inside where the tube's emerge from the flange. Unless there was a lot of Penetration.....most of the weld was ground off making the Flange flat again. So you have minimal connectivity. This may or may not be a problem, but unless you could look at a set to see exactly how much the welds penetrated....down the road you may have a cracked tube or weld. A lot would depend on the grade of stainless as mentioned above, but you have no way of confirming that. Just my .02.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Just an observation, but where the tubes are welded to the flanges. It appears that the welds are only on the outside of the flange and do not penetrate very far to the inside where the tube's emerge from the flange. Unless there was a lot of Penetration.....most of the weld was ground off making the Flange flat again. So you have minimal connectivity. This may or may not be a problem, but unless you could look at a set to see exactly how much the welds penetrated....down the road you may have a cracked tube or weld. A lot would depend on the grade of stainless as mentioned above, but you have no way of confirming that. Just my .02.

Yes noticed the welds on the flanges look little sketchy.
 

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I don't know what brand those are but recently bought a set of mid length stainless headers that came in a box labeled "Speedmaster". They look great with thick flanges. The outside of the tubes were spot welded but the inside were done with a good weld that looked to be machine welded. The part number said for a Chevelle or Nova. The drivers side fit great if I slid the engine back about three inches. The passenger side, not even close. Waste of money. Wound up using some old crusty headers I picked up for $20 just to use for mock up. Had to persuade them a bit to fit. They will have to work until I can rat hole the $500 + to buy some quality ones that fit well
 

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Couldnt resist headers discussed in this topic so bought a set.
Looks decent, ok finish, nice thick flanges.
Decent welds, primarys are 2” at the flange and stepped down to 1 3/4”.
Only bad thing is that the shipper wasnt carefull so two small dents most cosmetic and damaged gaskets.

From what I can see it looks like they will fit after flange is trimmed for arp bolts, probably going to try if they fit next weekend.
 

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Old thread alert.... but although some valid points were made about things like header flange thickness, I didn't notice anyone making mention of the grade of stainless steel being important as well. If for instance the headers in question are 409 stainless, then they won't last as long as 321 stainless, nor even as long as 304 stainless will since 321 and 304 are considerably more resistant to corrosion, and the same can be said about stainless steel mufflers and pipes. This is one of the reasons you will pay more for Borla mufflers than you will for many other stainless steel mufflers. Borla muffs are 304 SS
 

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Good call BillyGman. 3 series or austentic stainless steel is far more corrosion resistant, and is non magnetic.

The reason, there is less carbon. Filler rod such as 304L, 309L have a low amount of carbon. That's what the "L" stands for. When you see SS rust in the heat affected area, it's because chromium has a strong attraction to carbon, forming chromium carbide which will rust. Titanium is added in trace amounts to the filler material, as it has an even stronger attraction to carbon. This forms titanium carbide which will not rust.

4 series or Martinsitic SS is for food service applications. This blend of SS has a lot more carbon & is magnetic.
 

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was debating between a pair of these and the same summit headers I used on the 66. I think I found a set of these stainless for $115 with free shipping. I would not have to paint or coat them and as cheap as they are if I had to do any modding to get them to fit would not bother me lol. that said those summit headers fit my 66 like a glove. but since I am dealing with a G-body and I have to mod any header to fit well. there you have it.
 

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Update:
Driver side fit and lots of room against Steering shaft and a-arms. No. 3 tube is close to crossmember but clears with maybe 1/16-1/8”.

Passenger side no. 2 tube hits crossmember with maybe 1/8-1/4”. Decided to cut it and lenghten it as much as possible towards no. 4 tube, maybe 1/2” and hope thats enough. At least it was easy to get it out only needed to lift that side 3-5” and it slided out from the underside. A shame they didnt get that no. 2 tube little better.
Now I have to decide if I shall have someone tig weld it or buy stainless wire and mig it myself?
 

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So both headers are in. Since I wanted to stay cheap I bought some stainless wire for my mig and welded it my self, not as easy to weld stainless with a mig as usual steel. If(big if) I like them I probably buy another set and have them proffesional tig welded. Can probably sell these with zero loss in money.
Well after some grinding polishing and sparkplug/Sparkplug wire in place I think its not noticeable if you dont know about the welding and look for it.
So the 3/8”-7/16” I moved nr 2 tube back was enough.

Oilfilter access seems terrible, glad I changed it while engine was out. Much of it is because of my Moroso kickout pan a oem style pan and it should be easy to change filter. Guess I will see if I like them next fall when its time for oil and oilfilter change :D
Cant see how it can be done without unbolting the header?

First pictures testfittng before any grinding.

Now Im just waiting for my new ARP engine mount bolts that I ordered today to arrive to finish the installation.
 

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I just bought a set stainless midlenght china sbc headers. On ebay, new for only $100,--
Just for testing and cam braek in, the engine is not in the car.

The quality did look like yours, very well made, thick flanges and properly welded.
The stainless quality is unknown, after the cam braek in, they are very,very discolored.
With the engine running I even got them red hot, but they did not crack or anything.
For test purpose (were I bought them for) very good quality. I don´t like it on a show car the way they look now.
 
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