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Discussion Starter #1
I have had a shop price out adding a clock to the center small hole and the tach (w/oil/volts/temp) to larger hole now (that has idiot lights)

Price quoted was 1200.00 and that included the two gauges and wire harness needed.

Is this a good price?
How difficult is this?

Instructions any where?:confused:

Also i currently have an Auto meter cluster at bottom of dash with volt/oil/water now and a tach on the column. could i use this wiring?

any input appreciated.
 

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I see ground up sell the tach setup for 240 bucks and the clock is 220. Add in the harness and sending unit and having someone pull a 42 year old dash apart and put it back together, I'd say its not too bad a price. Figure a regular shop rates gotta be 85 bucks a hour or more. You could probably do it yourself. But if you get it all back together and something fries, your out all the time and money. jim
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Ya i hear that.

i'm thinking the sending unit that are currently in for the auto meter cluster under dash will be fine, and the use of the wiring for that mater...




I see ground up sell the tach setup for 240 bucks and the clock is 220. Add in the harness and sending unit and having someone pull a 42 year old dash apart and put it back together, I'd say its not too bad a price. Figure a regular shop rates gotta be 85 bucks a hour or more. You could probably do it yourself. But if you get it all back together and something fries, your out all the time and money. jim
 

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you can buy a repop tach and gauge cluster or find one on ebay.as for wiring the gauge cluster its not that hard at all.you will also need to correct temp sending unit because i dont think the auto meter unit will work.here is a link on how to wire the cluster.

http://www.noneckschevelle.com/techtips1.htm
 

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I see ground up sell the tach setup for 240 bucks and the clock is 220. Add in the harness and sending unit and having someone pull a 42 year old dash apart and put it back together, I'd say its not too bad a price. Figure a regular shop rates gotta be 85 bucks a hour or more. You could probably do it yourself. But if you get it all back together and something fries, your out all the time and money. jim
Jim, I respecfully disagree 240 & 220 plus $ for wire harness and sender leaves about 650 that sounds like too much for labor.Also if the shop fries anything they'll blame it on the car being so old and Bull will be out for that anyway.Also, if its a regular shop the guy working on the car won't be knowledgable about older cars.Can't tell you how many cars I've seen botched up by FNG's. Is that estimate from a shop that restores and works on older cars or at least has an old guy workuing there?
 

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ya they specialize in restorations.... mainly 442's but they happen to have a 69 Chevelle in the window now for sale... 60k.

they seem knowledgeable...

but for 1200.00 i may want to try this... with some help... dashs make me nervous... lol
 

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you can buy a repop tach and gauge cluster or find one on ebay.as for wiring the gauge cluster its not that hard at all.you will also need to correct temp sending unit because i dont think the auto meter unit will work.here is a link on how to wire the cluster.

http://www.noneckschevelle.com/techtips1.htm
bull, i had a orig tach & clock for my 69 & followed the no neck wiring steps & all worked out for me. just look at the wiring diag & follow the routing. you will have to change the oil sending unit to make it work properly. bill
 

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Thanks Bill, i think the oil sending unit must be ok if the autometer gauge under dash works...

i may give this a shot...



bull, i had a orig tach & clock for my 69 & followed the no neck wiring steps & all worked out for me. just look at the wiring diag & follow the routing. you will have to change the oil sending unit to make it work properly. bill
 

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Thanks Bill, i think the oil sending unit must be ok if the autometer gauge under dash works...

i may give this a shot...
What Bill is saying is that even though the sending unit you have works fine for your Autometer gauge is may not work correctly for the factory style gauge, same for the temp sender... Sending units are designed to work with specific gauges typically.
 
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