Team Chevelle banner
1 - 14 of 14 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
1,283 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm fairly new to this hobby and I was going to make an attempt to replace my front springs which I've never done before on any car. I have a Hanes book showing the procedure. It basically says

1) Remove endlinks (easy)
2) remove shocks (easy)
3) Use special tool to remove connection between lower A-arm and steering component.
4) Use spring compressor to remove spring.(sounds easy).


I've already replaced my shocks and endlinks so really the only part I'm concerned about is using the special tool, which I'm guessing I can rent. Is this a difficult tool to use? How hard will it be to perform step 3? Thanks.
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
6,327 Posts
Special tool is probably a pickle fork or ball joint separator. Easier option that usually works is as follows. Lift the car up so the weight is off the wheel. Loosen the castle nut on the lower ball joint. Don't take it off just loosen it a few turns so there is a gap between the nut and spindle. Smack the side of the spindle with a BFH, try not to damage any brake or other components. The spring pressure will help separate the ball joint from the spindle. Once it's loose use your spring compressor, a safety chain around the spring as well is also a good idea, and away you go.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
535 Posts
To remove mine on my 70 I put a floor jack under the front of the control arm and removed the nut on the spindle and used a pickle fork to seperate the spindle from the control arm. The jack will support the arm when broken loose. Slowly lower the jack and remove the spring. I also wrapped a chain around the spring and control arm for safety purposes. When the spindle and control arm broke loose it startled me, but other than that it was a piece of cake. I haven't put the new ones in yet.
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
6,327 Posts
Pickle fork will work but usually requires a lot more hammering than the other method. A couple of good smacks on the spindle usually does it, the spring pressure when it's compressed does most of the work for you.

Depending on the spring it may come out without using a spring compressor as Chevelless1 said. If it doesn't lift the car up and lower the control arm down onto a jackstand. Let the weight of the car compress the spring then install the spring compressor. You don't want to compress that spring all the way by hand.

Take your time and be safe.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
15,131 Posts
If you do not plan to re-use the springs, get out the cutting torch if you have one, and cut them a couple times in the middle. This takes all the pressure off them, and you can remove them very safely without any worries about the springs popping out and hitting you.

Wait to do this until after the Ball-Joints are cracked loose though, so you can do it like "Finally" described.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
4,666 Posts
I agree with Hank. IMO, a pickle fork is more difficult to use than the BFH method, and will often ruin the ball joint, the seal or both in the process (if that's a concern). I never use a pickle fork, if you hit the spindle the right way, it will pop loose after a few good blows. As Hank said, the spring pressure will do most of the job, as a matter of fact I'd think that the spring puts more pressure on the ball joint than a pickle fork ever will. I usually try to hit the spindle from the inside, as the control arm will flex less that way.

You can do the ball joints in the steering linkage the same way, if you use another BFH as an anvil. And when I'm talking about a BFH, I'm not talking about a 16 oz hammer, you'll at least need a small sledge hammer to do it. As always, the BFH is your best friend in the garage. :)
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
2,248 Posts
BE VERY CAREFUL! The front coil springs can be dangerous to remove if done incorrectly. If you have never done this before I advise finding a buddy to help who has experiance.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
971 Posts
If you were to replace your springs several times would you need to buy new ball joints after the seconf or third time?
I am thinking about swapping out my springs for new coil spring and adjusters, and if i do this i will need to adjust one side to the car sits level.

Brian
 

· Registered
Joined
·
15,131 Posts
bri2203, you will not damage the ball-joint if you do not hammer on it. Loosen the nut, and pound on the spindle with the BFH, not the ball-joint. It *should* crack loose pretty easily.
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top