Do you guy's think that this unit has enough power to do the roofrails, wheel well's, deck filler panel, etc? I'm replacing the entire rear of the car, and figure this could really help thing's turn out really nice. Already got a millermatic 135, for the place's this won't work. What do you think? Thinking about using it then selling it for a little less to somebody who may need it. Dave.clicky
spotwelder, do you think it will work?
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I have one that looks identical,it does work good but is 220vac ,but you are somewhat limited where you can use it. I have the 18" tongs,that will reach in more places, but gets heavy if your holding it in an akward position. Eastwood has it for 499.00 http://eastwoodco.com/shopping/prod...233&itemType=PRODUCT&RS=1&keyword=spot+welder
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We have one that looks exactly like that one we use for making HVAC ductwork, it's 120 volt.
I have ours mounted on a pedestal and is foot pedal operated.
Never tried it on car body stuff but I doubt that it would work very well because it really ain't all that great on 28/26/ gauge galvanized metal.
I have ours mounted on a pedestal and is foot pedal operated.
Never tried it on car body stuff but I doubt that it would work very well because it really ain't all that great on 28/26/ gauge galvanized metal.
I went that route first before I stick welded and migged on my car, I found with the thin sheet metal 22 gauge repop stuff, I was burning right through unless you were good and clamped within an inch or two of what you were attempting to weld. I am just passing along some forewarned is forearmed. You are alot better off plug welding, but if you decide to go that route good luck to you. Jason.71metbu said:
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Not enough juice to properly weld nor clamping pressure
Another plan in the crapper.
I've got time to think about it now, as the frieght company destroyed the second panel in transit.:angry: got another 10 to 15 day's to sit around waiting. This is the second one that I had to refuse, The first one was for a convertible.
I've got time to think about it now, as the frieght company destroyed the second panel in transit.:angry: got another 10 to 15 day's to sit around waiting. This is the second one that I had to refuse, The first one was for a convertible.
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I'm getting ready to put a plug on the one shown and try it out.
Ironically my friend called and told me he had bought it right after I read this post and needed a plug to be able to plug it into the same outlet for his big welder.
dang plug cost $23.00 wholesale
Ironically my friend called and told me he had bought it right after I read this post and needed a plug to be able to plug it into the same outlet for his big welder.
dang plug cost $23.00 wholesale
I've replaced both 1/4's, wheel well's, tailpanel, deck filler panel. I'd just like to use it on some of the visible area's such as the 1/4 to tail panel, re-attaching the trunk gutter's and along the 1/4 window gutter. Just thinking that it could make grinding alot easier. I'll plug weld or glue all the other area's.BusDriver said:
Dean, let me know what you think after they try it out, The guy down at central told me he thought the 220 version might do the trick in the smaller area's. I know I'll need to use my vice-grip's and get the metal pinched together, before I were to spot weld it. Thank's
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The manual repair weld guns that we use in the Oshawa truck plant are operated with an air cylinder to apply tip pressure. You will never get a good weld unless the metal is tightly clamped. The guns are mounted on balancers for easy operation.
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The type of spot welder needed for auto body repairs run$10k and up. That thing is a toy compared to what is needed. Read this-
http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7879&highlight=spot+welder
http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7879&highlight=spot+welder
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I put a plug on it and tried it out on a couple pieces of 26 gauge galvanized (duct metal)
1) It's pretty heavy and awkward to hold, get in the right spot and pull the tirgger.
I was doing it out in the open on the floor, I can imagine how hard it would be to do it in an awkward spot on a car body.
2) It only makes a spot about 1/8" or less in diameter.
3) It's very trickey to get the tips adjusted properly.
I tried to pull the two pieces of metal apart but they were welded together pretty darn good.
Still need to try it out on a car body but I know from using my 120 volt one, both sides of both pieces have to be very clean and pulled tightly together mechanically because you can't (shouldn't) use the welder's tongs to pull the metal together.
Also keeping the tips adjusted and dressed clean is something we have to do pretty often on ours.
Gotta go find a tough place on some old car to try it out on now
1) It's pretty heavy and awkward to hold, get in the right spot and pull the tirgger.
I was doing it out in the open on the floor, I can imagine how hard it would be to do it in an awkward spot on a car body.
2) It only makes a spot about 1/8" or less in diameter.
3) It's very trickey to get the tips adjusted properly.
I tried to pull the two pieces of metal apart but they were welded together pretty darn good.
Still need to try it out on a car body but I know from using my 120 volt one, both sides of both pieces have to be very clean and pulled tightly together mechanically because you can't (shouldn't) use the welder's tongs to pull the metal together.
Also keeping the tips adjusted and dressed clean is something we have to do pretty often on ours.
Gotta go find a tough place on some old car to try it out on now
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