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Where can I get it?
SPI epoxy?
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Since you're in Ohio, as am I, You have to go through Baker distributors. They will deliver SPI and many other body shop supplies to your door.
Visit http://bakerpbe.com/
Steve
Visit http://bakerpbe.com/
Steve
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When I dropped off my header panel and rad. support this morning, I talked with an old timer who told me that if I spray the newly stripped sheet metal with epoxy primer, I'll need to finish coat it within seven days because when the epoxy primer cures (in seven days) nothing will stick to it.
Is this the case? I was under the impression that I could strip the metal and epoxy prime it and then start the bodywork.
Will a primer/sealer stick to the epoxy after seven day's?
Set me on the right path guy's..............
Is this the case? I was under the impression that I could strip the metal and epoxy prime it and then start the bodywork.
Will a primer/sealer stick to the epoxy after seven day's?
Set me on the right path guy's..............
The 7 days applies to applying filler or 2K primer WITHOUT sanding the epoxy surface. You can apply these after the 7 day period, but you will need to scuff/ligh sand the surface. Simple as that.When I dropped off my header panel and rad. support this morning, I talked with an old timer who told me that if I spray the newly stripped sheet metal with epoxy primer, I'll need to finish coat it within seven days because when the epoxy primer cures (in seven days) nothing will stick to it.
Is this the case? I was under the impression that I could strip the metal and epoxy prime it and then start the bodywork.
Will a primer/sealer stick to the epoxy after seven day's?
Set me on the right path guy's..............
that's only for that cheap stuff that you use Rob
As long as you keep it out of the elements, a scuff should be sufficient. If you want to shoot another coat over the top, I don't think it will hurt anything.
Its in the fine print Andy.:yes: http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/tech sheets new/epOXY 2006.pdf
Rob
:yes: http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/tech sheets new/epOXY 2006.pdf Rob
Maybe you need to get bifocaled up.that's only for that cheap stuff that you use Rob
As long as you keep it out of the elements, a scuff should be sufficient. If you want to shoot another coat over the top, I don't think it will hurt anything.
You can apply filler, etc within 7 days without scuffing the epoxy. I shot mine, let it cure out, then went over it completely with Scotchbrite pads anyway. In a production shop you might get filler on it right away, but there wasw no way I would get it done quickly enough. Have not had any problems at all.
I've read that before on here where others have scuffed it and didn't recoat it and they said it was okay.
I just noticed today that they changed to 80 grit for bare metal where it used to be 80 to 180 grit, anyway if a guy can stay close to what they recommend it just leaves less chance for a problem.
Something else here that wouldn't hurt to mention, I have read on a few occasions when spraying epoxy , not just spi, other brands as well, if you can keep your shop or garage temperature a little on the warmer side it will lay out better.
I've only sprayed epoxy a few times, but I ran the temperature up close to 80, then took it back down to 76 and it really sprayed and layed out nice. I left it overnight around 74, hard to remember exactly but it was plenty warm.
I also read on one of the forums that the air temperature and body panel temperature could be different, it was kind of long and I don't think there was a definite decision made on it, maybe somebody on here that sees this could comment on it.
Rob
On there tech sheet here they mention different voc laws in regard to resin solvents.
Southern Polyurethanes clears LOVE hot and humid booths!
Epoxy that lays slick and sands great
Note that the epoxy tech sheets now read that bare metal or aluminum needs to be sanded with an 80 grit DA before coating with SPI Epoxy. This is a change from past recommendations for 80-180 prepping. Resin manufacturers have pointed out that by using grits finer than an 80, the epoxy may have a hard time getting into the scratches, and an air pocket could form resulting in a loss of adhesion.
Over the next year, look for other paint companies to go to the 80-grit recommendation. This is due, in part, to resin solvents being changed to meet different VOC laws
I know I'm getting a little carried away here Lou, but wherever you get your paint or filler or whatever, if they don't have a product sheet with it, have them print one out for you.
Rob
Southern Polyurethanes clears LOVE hot and humid booths!
Epoxy that lays slick and sands great
Note that the epoxy tech sheets now read that bare metal or aluminum needs to be sanded with an 80 grit DA before coating with SPI Epoxy. This is a change from past recommendations for 80-180 prepping. Resin manufacturers have pointed out that by using grits finer than an 80, the epoxy may have a hard time getting into the scratches, and an air pocket could form resulting in a loss of adhesion.
Over the next year, look for other paint companies to go to the 80-grit recommendation. This is due, in part, to resin solvents being changed to meet different VOC laws
I know I'm getting a little carried away here Lou, but wherever you get your paint or filler or whatever, if they don't have a product sheet with it, have them print one out for you.
Rob
Before 7 days no scuff is needed.
After 7 days a light scuff to open the surface back up so the new coat will stick. You can leave the epoxy on as long as you need. Just use a scotch brite pad to get proper adhesion after it is fully cured. You can't go wrong with SPI epoxy.
Paul
After 7 days a light scuff to open the surface back up so the new coat will stick. You can leave the epoxy on as long as you need. Just use a scotch brite pad to get proper adhesion after it is fully cured. You can't go wrong with SPI epoxy.
Paul
A lot of guys use spi as a sealer, here he recommends 600 to 800 grit if used as a sealer before putting on a base coat.
http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/perfect paint.htm
Rob
http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/perfect paint.htm
Rob
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So, I can strip it and shoot epoxy on it to protect it, then start on the bodywork (may take a while). Scuff it when it's ready to be finished, starting with sealer then high build primer and blocking?
so are you ever gonna use any SPI? You seem to know all about it
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This is from b Barry at SPI concerning my question in case someone else has the same question:
My question was:
"I am restoring my car a little at a time. My question concerns the use of your epoxy primer on metal that has been media blasted to bare. I want to blast one panel at a time then immediately shoot it with epoxy for protection until I can complete the bodywork (may take a while). After the bodywork is completed, all I'll have to do is to scuff the epoxy surface to get other coatings to grab to it. Is this correct?"
Barry's response:
"Yes, as long as the car stays inside, just hand sand with 180 and prime. The bare metal needs to be DA'd with an 80 grit and bare metal washed with 700 then two coats of epoxy for best protection."
My question was:
"I am restoring my car a little at a time. My question concerns the use of your epoxy primer on metal that has been media blasted to bare. I want to blast one panel at a time then immediately shoot it with epoxy for protection until I can complete the bodywork (may take a while). After the bodywork is completed, all I'll have to do is to scuff the epoxy surface to get other coatings to grab to it. Is this correct?"
Barry's response:
"Yes, as long as the car stays inside, just hand sand with 180 and prime. The bare metal needs to be DA'd with an 80 grit and bare metal washed with 700 then two coats of epoxy for best protection."
Once I figure out how to use it.so are you ever gonna use any SPI? You seem to know all about it
1:1 is brainless mixture, compare that to your DP.Once I figure out how to use it.![]()
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