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Vancouver BC Canada
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all!
Wondering about Sound Deadening.
I was given two boxes of the stuff. The kind you roll out and it lays down and then adheres to the floors and pretty much wherever you let it touch.
It has the silver aluminum covering on the back.
How many have used it?
If so where is a good place to use it just the floor pans in the foot trays or? I have seen some guys coat the whole floor with this stuff!
Any problem afterwards?
Guessing by problems I mean to get at the floor now you have to peel it all up.


Looking forward to your replies with thanks!
Casey
 

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Hello Casey,

You might need to be a little more specific on your product name because that describes several different peel-able sound deadening products.

For me, I went with a product called "Peel & Seal" from the roofing section at Lowes. Yes, the roofing section. It absolutely sticks like glue on a clean sheet metal floor and I'm also using it upside down stuck to the underside of the ceiling. It is also useful on doors between the sheet metal and the door panel.

Others have said they feared using this product because of the smell but it has no smell for me or any passenger. No smell at all. I hit it with a 1000 watt heat gun to see if I could make it smell and it emitted no smell.

And the cost is quite reasonable compared to the other materials. Since yours is free to you, this might not matter.

Rick
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hey Thanks Guys!


Looks like mine is a roll of the premium from B-Quiet .com
It's a US made product that is a true peel and stick.
They don't say much about it but wondered once it's down and stuck that is pretty much it right/
Like any welding on the bottom and you have to re do that section...due to melting.
If there is a water leak then you have to pull it up to prevent rusting Or will it seal out the water?

I know it isn't a big deal but I don't want a goopy mess Either...
 

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1970 Chevelle, MJ 467, 600hp/600tq, Moser 12 bolt M22Z muncie
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Hello Casey,

You might need to be a little more specific on your product name because that describes several different peel-able sound deadening products.

For me, I went with a product called "Peel & Seal" from the roofing section at Lowes. Yes, the roofing section. It absolutely sticks like glue on a clean sheet metal floor and I'm also using it upside down stuck to the underside of the ceiling. It is also useful on doors between the sheet metal and the door panel.

Others have said they feared using this product because of the smell but it has no smell for me or any passenger. No smell at all. I hit it with a 1000 watt heat gun to see if I could make it smell and it emitted no smell.

And the cost is quite reasonable compared to the other materials. Since yours is free to you, this might not matter.

Rick
I second the peel and seal, covered my entire floor, firewall and trunk divider. No smell at all. Sticks like crazy. In regards to welding after the fact, that’s where careful planning of the project comes in. Make sure whatever you put down as a sound deadener, it is the last thing you do. Make all your repairs first.
 

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I used B-Quiet on the floors and firewall and Dynamat in the doors, under the rear seat and trunk. Both work well in keeping out the noise and heat. Definitely do all repairs and sealing before laying it down as I couldn't imagine trying to pull it up. I have heard the peel and seal stuff works well but I don't have any experience with it, so no opinion. Dynamat is awesome but it is also expensive.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks
Yes the price was free and it is a huge roll so I am glad someone has used this product before.

Thank you Kevin!
 

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I wonder if the peel and seal is as effective a sound barrier as some of the products designed for that. Most of what I've read says to go with butyl products for effective sound deadening and I looked up the MSDS for Peel and Seal which indicates that it is an asphalt product.
 

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I had a buddy who went to one of the big box hardware stores to buy some peel and stick stuff. He put it everywhere. In Texas the cheap crap is great until you get one of those 100+* days and you find that stuff oozing out of every crevice and crack surrounding the area where you installed it. On another side note, if you've ever tried removing that stuff after its installed, you'd run the other way from it screaming like a teen girl who lost her BF.
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I had a buddy who went to one of the big box hardware stores to buy some peel and stick stuff. He put it everywhere. In Texas the cheap crap is great until you get one of those 100+* days and you find that stuff oozing out of every crevice and crack surrounding the area where you installed it. On another side note, if you've ever tried removing that stuff after its installed, you'd run the other way from it screaming like a teen girl who lost her BF.

Love the comment and yes that was how I felt when I had to remove two layers of undercoating from the bottom of the body before doing any welding on the floors! It took two weeks and elbow grease!
I could have let it catch on fire and watched it drip LOL and believe me it did for the first few repairs.
It's all off and there is a really nice looking patina under there. It looks like a satin silver ish paint? Love to know what it was so I can reproduce it.... Thoughts anyone?


The removal was why I was asking about putting something like that in the car...
I have the correct product from Bquiet.com and it is a Butyl rubber product also peel and stick so I think I am alright there. since I did not remove the noise reducing material from the inside of the roof I think I should be good doing the floors doors and firewall area with lot left to spare!


Thanks again All!
 

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someone recommended that to me also BUT in the florida sun it melted from inside my door and stuck to my glass. Its has been a disaster to scrape off the inside of my door but lesson learned. I am redoing the entire car with KILMAT which sticks as good as the double priced dynamat and works absolutely amazing! The level of soundproofing is incredible and it is foil backed PLUS it has a texture on it that when you hit it with the required roller the texture flattens out. it is great stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
someone recommended that to me also BUT in the florida sun it melted from inside my door and stuck to my glass.

I wish that was an issue up here in Vancouver... the other one past the 49th LOL
It does get hot here and did this summer. It was Hot but nothing like Florida or Arizona weather...


Good to know others have done this and what they are using!
 

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1964 Chevrolet Chevelle Malibu 4 door
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You should be fine with the bquiet, lucky getting it for free!!

As others have said, make sure it's the LAST thing to do to the car as once it's down, it's hell to pay to remove it. I have seen people use dry ice to freeze it then chip it out with chisels/hammers.

The peal and seal is bad. Once it gets hot it oozes, my buddy put it in his racing truck, still have that crap stuck to my clothes years later.

There's no real mapping of putting it down, just try to get it in as many places as you can, the more you put down, the more insulation you'll have from noise, although it will add weight to your car. One trick I did was just knock around with a screwdriver handle or your knuckle, if it sounds light or loud, put mat down.

Make sure metal is clean, paint is sticking well, no moisture, etc. I wiped down the entire area I was doing with rubbing alcohol to chase away moisture and to make sure everything stuck. Used a heat gun to make the mat plyable, 1x4 to use as a backing to cut with, and these rollers to make sure it stuck: Amazon.com: Car Sound Deadening Rolling Sound Proof Insulation 2 Pcs For Auto Noise Roller Car Sound Deadener Application Installation Tool Rolling Wheel Interior Accessories: Gateway

Also be sure to have a disposable razor/box cutter to cut the material, gloves to keep it off your hands, and maybe a rag with lacquer thinner / brake clean to clean areas that need it. Good luck!!

Not a chevelle, but you get the idea. I spent some time online looking @ professional install pics and vids to get an idea of how to install the mat. Turns out just put it everywhere trying to be conscience of the most efficient path. (don't use the green rubbing alcohol, it was cheap, later found out it was wintergreen. Truck smelled like a bengay deliver vehicle for a while. :eek: )



 

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I wonder if the peel and seal is as effective a sound barrier as some of the products designed for that. Most of what I've read says to go with butyl products for effective sound deadening and I looked up the MSDS for Peel and Seal which indicates that it is an asphalt product.

It's effective but nowhere near the stuff that's designed for it. My Cutlass is my beater and test mule for everything, I've used peel and seal from Lowes, and inside of the car was somewhat quieter. So it does work, but not like stuff that was designed for it.

When it came down to doing my Impala, I decided to use Fatmat 80mil from Ebay. I spent a little more than what I spent on peel and seal, but the inside of the car is much quieter than my Cutlass. I can barely hear the compressors in the trunk (air ride), before fatmat the whole car felt like it was vibrating. Road noise is much quieter as well.

Obviously Chevelle is getting the fatmat 80mil everywhere I can stick it on.

I think Fatmat is best bang for the buck, IMO peel and seal is a waste of money cause Fatmat (or similar) can be bought for little more.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks for the info Jeff! that was really informative and relieving to say the least!
I do not want to be doing this twice once all welding is completed!


Thank you for the comments Eddie I will use the free sound deadening I have as you said it is what it was made for!


Cheers


Casey
 
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Hello Casey,

You might need to be a little more specific on your product name because that describes several different peel-able sound deadening products.

For me, I went with a product called "Peel & Seal" from the roofing section at Lowes. Yes, the roofing section. It absolutely sticks like glue on a clean sheet metal floor and I'm also using it upside down stuck to the underside of the ceiling. It is also useful on doors between the sheet metal and the door panel.

Others have said they feared using this product because of the smell but it has no smell for me or any passenger. No smell at all. I hit it with a 1000 watt heat gun to see if I could make it smell and it emitted no smell.

And the cost is quite reasonable compared to the other materials. Since yours is free to you, this might not matter.

Rick
I used this as well and when put on a clean surface and pressed down correctly it sticks like mad. No smell or issues with it coming loose in the summer heat. I stuck a piece on the side of my work bench and hit it with my heat gun and it isn't coming off.. Been stuck there about 4 years now.
 
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Okay going to restore this thread with asking How warm does it need to be outside to put the insulation down?
This May sucks for warmth...It is a mere 6C outside so like 40F At this rate it isn't happening till Aug?
Even with the stove fired up in the garage I'd be lucky to get 65F but for how long...
Best temps for this stuff would be?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
The milk house type may work to warm the area and floor up. It is a fresh painted bottom of the car... Thanks...
Wow room temp that's like 70F Come on Spring....
 
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