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· Lifetime Founding Member
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My car is a PIG with the pedal anywhere under WOT?
I can kick it down into 1st at 30mph and it wont even spin the tires? Hell it wont even bark em going from 1st to 2nd ?
It seems like it is slipping to much?
I have a New B&M 2800-3200 stall, been through the trans "3" times?
Could it be the cam, it's a Comp xe284?
I am going to take the trans. out after xmas and go through it one more time and I am thinking of sending the converter off and have it tightened up.
I posted about this a couple of weeks agao and everyone said converter?
But the people I have talked to about the converter all say to use the same stall as I have?
The car has no seat of the pants acceleration, my sons 2000 LS1camero w/3500 stall will smoke the tires at a 30mph roll and pin ya to the seat at the same time.
Every company I talk to say that if I go to anything under 2800 stall it will want to pull through the brakes at lites or clunk really bad when I put it in gear, or kill the motor when I put it in gear?

Anyone out there with a xe284 or simular in a 468 , 10:3cr w/th400 and 373 rear?
If so, how does yours run as far as off throddle, seat of the pants performance?
What do I have to do to get this thing to run like a BBC?
I am not going to race it, I just want to beat up on stangs and have fun on the street.
As it is now, it's like a bowl of mush........sounds really BBBAADD.... but it dont go?
Thanks for any help T.C.
 

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I am not going to race it, I just want to beat up on stangs and have fun on the street.
Thanks for any help T.C.[/QUOTE]

I'm not going to give an opinion here, but I want to give you all some insight into those "Mustangs", and this most definitely is NOT a plug for them. Let me say I do almost no Fords, period. I have a good customer in Omaha, Nebraska who recently bought his wife a 2005 Mustang. He bought an "under-the-hood" procharger and programmed the entire setup on his own, no outside help. I believe it has a 4.6 (?) unit, I'm not certain here. He put the biggest slicks he fit could under the wells and went racing. He e-mailed me a copy of the time-slips. The car ran 10.75 which really impressed me, but what totally
"blew me away" was the fact it went 135 MPH. That's a high nine second car. One his wife is going back and forth to work with daily now. POINT HERE, when an excellent engine builder, any one of them, anywhere, builds you a good unit, be careful who you "condemn" when things just don't seem "right". We've had this happen to us a number of times. A Chevy customer would walk in the door and say
"I just wanna throw sumthin' together to beat these "Mustangs". [End quote]. My answer was "it ain't as easy as you think and you're gonna hafta "dig deep"! You don't know what's under the other guy's hood. Thanks, Gary in N.Y.
 

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I have a 468
10.5 : 1
215 heads
XE284
rpm air gap
BG 850 vs
built th350 with 2400 stall
308 gears
26 inch tall tires 9 inch wide
It will burn rubber in any gear and as long as you want. I have not been to a track and thats not what this car is for - ie parts are not tough enough-behind the flex plate, but I street raced and beat a car with an actual 12.5 second time slip.
What is your timing set at? and what all do you have in the engine?
 

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GOSFAST said:
I am not going to race it, I just want to beat up on stangs and have fun on the street.
Thanks for any help T.C.
I'm not going to give an opinion here, but I want to give you all some insight into those "Mustangs", and this most definitely is NOT a plug for them. Let me say I do almost no Fords, period. I have a good customer in Omaha, Nebraska who recently bought his wife a 2005 Mustang. He bought an "under-the-hood" procharger and programmed the entire setup on his own, no outside help. I believe it has a 4.6 (?) unit, I'm not certain here. He put the biggest slicks he fit could under the wells and went racing. He e-mailed me a copy of the time-slips. The car ran 10.75 which really impressed me, but what totally
"blew me away" was the fact it went 135 MPH. That's a high nine second car. One his wife is going back and forth to work with daily now. POINT HERE, when an excellent engine builder, any one of them, anywhere, builds you a good unit, be careful who you "condemn" when things just don't seem "right". We've had this happen to us a number of times. A Chevy customer would walk in the door and say
"I just wanna throw sumthin' together to beat these "Mustangs". [End quote]. My answer was "it ain't as easy as you think and you're gonna hafta "dig deep"! You don't know what's under the other guy's hood. Thanks, Gary in N.Y.
=
Hi TC,

Hot damn,,, another post where I agree completly with Gary,,, hope this doesn't become habitiual :D ,,,,

I do not do much Ferd stuff either but as was said, do not take the new Mustangs or LSX crowd lightly,,, they flat run & get 20+MPG to boot :(

That said, I do think you have a tuning issue too as you should have plenty of torque to 'smoke em",,,,
 

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my first post here was similar to this, i couldnt figure out why my chevelle wouldnt get out of its own way. it ended up being bad plug wires and the car was only running on 6 or 7 cylinders, even though the wires looked good to the eye.

if i were you i would ohm out your plug wires and/or replace them with a known good set, change plugs and make sure the total timing is set to 36 to 38 degrees.

in my experience, big blocks with headers seem to be extra hard on plug wires.
 

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At the end of the day you still have to drive home in a rustang. You can make a pinto go fast but who wants to be seen in one...
 

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The cam is probably retarded. Use my 'Quick-n-Dirty' method to check if the cam is in correct.
The only disassembly you have to do is take off a valve cover.
I use a Philips screwdriver in the #1 sparkplug hole to find TDC, turning in normal rotation until I feel it touch the piston, marking the degree wheel, then turning in opposite rotation until it hits again. I then find the average of the 2 readings, and that's TDC. Do it several times if you're unsure.
I then turn the #1 piston to TDC, and, using a 6" Machinist's Steel Rule, I check from the top of the INTAKE retainer to the spring seat, writing down the measurement. I then check from the top of the EXHAUST retainer to the spring seat, writing down that measurement.
The intake valve should be at least .025" to .050" closer to the head than the exhaust valve, if the cam is in the engine advanced. If the exhaust is closer, particularly a lot, then the cam is retarded, and will cause the conditions you are reporting.
Check it out, it's very cheap, very quick, and very accurate.....

UDHarold
 

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I have a 468 with a little more cam, and it isn't freindly below 2000. But it will still roast the tires at below that. Just seems to get hotter over 2000. I don't see why it shouldn't run well below there.

What is the RPM range on that cam? Is it possible that its just not designed to kick on until then?

Chris
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thank you guys for all the replys:

I know the Mustangs and ricers nowdays are fast, but so is my boys Camero. And if I wanted to really beat up Mustangs, thats what I would build, a Camero .
I know I havent got a 10 or 11 second car, but I hope I can get the seat of the pants performance I am looking for?

That being said, this is the rest of the motor:
The heads are Edelbrock #4069 aluminium 219/188 valves, 100cc chambers, 290cc runners, the pistons are TRW #L2399 060. w/.095 dome, all forged and ballanced rotating assy.
ARP fasteners, Moroso 6qt pan w/ kick out,scraper and windage tray,LS6 gm oil pump, MSD pro billet distributor,10.5 wires, didgital 6 box, Dynomax 1 3/4 headers into 3" exhaust w/Flomaster delta 50 series 3" tails, Merlin dual plane intake, edelbrock 750 vac. secondary carb.
Timing is @16 inital,16 mech. all in by 2500, this motor has never missed a lick, it fires rite up and sound really healthy.
I did degree the cam when I installed it, I even took pictures of how and what I did at the time so I could be sure of what I did later.
I am thinking I got a "bumm" converter and was hoping for some insight as to how others with simular setups run, as far as "seat of the pants" performance.
Or did I just screw up with the set up on the motor as far as cam, pistons heads, ect....?
Thanks for any input,advise, thoughts.
T.C.
 

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TC said:
Thank you guys for all the replys:

I know the Mustangs and ricers nowdays are fast, but so is my boys Camero. And if I wanted to really beat up Mustangs, thats what I would build, a Camero .
I know I havent got a 10 or 11 second car, but I hope I can get the seat of the pants performance I am looking for?

That being said, this is the rest of the motor:
The heads are Edelbrock #4069 aluminium 219/188 valves, 100cc chambers, 290cc runners, the pistons are TRW #L2399 060. w/.095 dome, all forged and ballanced rotating assy.
ARP fasteners, Moroso 6qt pan w/ kick out,scraper and windage tray,LS6 gm oil pump, MSD pro billet distributor,10.5 wires, didgital 6 box, Dynomax 1 3/4 headers into 3" exhaust w/Flomaster delta 50 series 3" tails, Merlin dual plane intake, edelbrock 750 vac. secondary carb.
Timing is @16 inital,16 mech. all in by 2500, this motor has never missed a lick, it fires rite up and sound really healthy.
I did degree the cam when I installed it, I even took pictures of how and what I did at the time so I could be sure of what I did later.
I am thinking I got a "bumm" converter and was hoping for some insight as to how others with simular setups run, as far as "seat of the pants" performance.
Or did I just screw up with the set up on the motor as far as cam, pistons heads, ect....?
Thanks for any input,advise, thoughts.
T.C.
=
While 32 degrees is not optimal it should not be a dog there.
I would put another 6 degrees in it & be sure the pointer is where you think it is.
Also, recheck as Harold suggested, it only takes a few minutes & we all screw up on occasion :D

That combo should net an easy 450-475 honest HP at a guess.
I recently did a 489 with those heads at 110cc's, the Ede torqurer cam, Ede perf intake & Ede carb & it was just under 500HP.

And a 454 with the Brodix RR heads, perf intake, Holley Avenger & an Isky hyd flat tappet 221/232 cam which was 510HP Super mild deal.
So, this should give you an idea of about where you should be.
 

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I run my timing at 38* and I think yours might benefit a tad from that, my old 454 had a 750 Edelbrock carb on it, swapped to a 750dp and it came to life, then swapped on the 950HP and I havent looked back since, it only picked up .02 trying a 1000hp carb.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks again for the replys:
I will recheck as Harold suggested, the pointer was spot on when I assembled the motor.
The dampner is new GM and the pointer is an old welded GM part, I checked and doubble checked this with a Crane Cams TDC tool. (but now I have 250 miles it?)
So if I did make this mistake, what would be the fix?
Would I need to pull it apart to redo the cam gear? or is there another fix?
I didnt think it was a good idea to go over 32 degree timing?
T.C.
 

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There could be more than one thing holding you back here. Harold as always has some great advice.

Wolfplace said:
=
I would put another 6 degrees in it & be sure the pointer is where you think it is.
Exactly what I was thinking, another 4-8 degrees of mechanical would be great. (you checked timing with the vacuum disconnected, right?)

good luck, please report back with the cure when you find it so we can all learn.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Yes I am checking the timing with the vacume unhooked and caped off. I have used a dial back and a regular timing lite, the role back jumps around a little where the regular is more steady but harder to use.
I cant really see this ballancer being off as it is new GM and the motor has not been over 5000 rpm.
I have put about 250 miles on the car trying to vary the speeds, nothing really at WOT enough to move the outside of the ballancer. (But I will check it anyway)
When I assembled the motor I doubble checked everything three or four times, but I still am not ruleing out a mistake.
With the piston at TDC there is only one wat to put the cam in if you align the dots, unless you intenionally retard or advance the cam.
I will keep ya posted.......
Thanks T.C.
 

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I have that cam in a 350 with the same B&M converter, peg leg 3.36 gear and no heads (882). I know it's not the best cam for my motor right now but it is not a dog in my engine to me. It will blaze the tires and chirp going into second gear.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
That makes feel better, a 350 with the same cam/converter blazing the tires onto 2nd and mine is mush............
Weather is to nasty to play today, tomorrow we will see whats up?
I hope?
T.C.
 
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