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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Broke down Saturday and took the car to the local track t&t. Of course it was a limited count mask wearing event but I hadn't been on a track in 11 plus months.
I am tree rusty fo sho.
Made four passes and the track had good prep so I have no excuses. When I rewired the car I missed on the line lock so it wasn't working but blah blah.
In the four passes I stayed within a hundredth every pass. Went two 6.50's and two 6.49's which made me quite happy with the return to the 1/8th mile. I ran my 3 year old M/T 28 x 10.5 stiff wall tires and they worked just fine. Three 1.38's and one 1.39 60' on a half spin. so I'm happy. Added weight (me) due to the shut down and the added electrical put me at an extra 45lbs approximately 3795. My mph was down to a tick under 105 so it was a good day with temps in the mid 70's. Drove it off the trailer and put it away with no drama. A good day finally after this past year.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Nice seeing you back making laps. It's running strong too.
My 565 is healthy but that's for another day. If track prep stays as it was on Saturday I'd consider putting it back in. I fought staying straight on the back end which made me too nervous plus I was having flexplate/starter/start retard issues that were haunting me for 3 years. Finally figured that one out too, it was my programming.
 

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My 565 is healthy but that's for another day. If track prep stays as it was on Saturday I'd consider putting it back in. I fought staying straight on the back end which made me too nervous plus I was having flexplate/starter/start retard issues that were haunting me for 3 years. Finally figured that one out too, it was my programming.
Good deal. Not pulling any timing or? Seeing the 565 out would be great. Hopefully it'll be good prep. I'd only like to go down flypaper tracks :) if it's up to me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Good deal. Not pulling any timing or? Seeing the 565 out would be great. Hopefully it'll be good prep. I'd only like to go down flypaper tracks :) if it's up to me.
What I was doing is "pull timing out" like a -15* vs just inputting the value I wanted it to retard to. I was confused by MSD's cryptic instructions and nobody was talking. Lol
I finally got hold of the right tech at MSD who immediately understood what was happening and then suggested the "correct" method. Bingo, no more starting issues, no more kick backs. Power Grid 7730.
 

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What I was doing is "pull timing out" like a -15* vs just inputting the value I wanted it to retard to. I was confused by MSD's cryptic instructions and nobody was talking. Lol
I finally got hold of the right tech at MSD who immediately understood what was happening and then suggested the "correct" method. Bingo, no more starting issues, no more kick backs. Power Grid 7730.
What I was doing is "pull timing out" like a -15* vs just inputting the value I wanted it to retard to. I was confused by MSD's cryptic instructions and nobody was talking. Lol
I finally got hold of the right tech at MSD who immediately understood what was happening and then suggested the "correct" method. Bingo, no more starting issues, no more kick backs. Power Grid 7730.
What exactly did you find with the timing retard? I tried it years ago but couldn’t make it work. I broke one flex plate, chipped another and ruined a starter gear. I loved how the car idled cleaner and would idle almost as soon as I started it with the locked out timing, but the 14:1 compression hated it. I think my issue was the start retard itself. It only had 2 settings 10 and 25. But to get 25 you had to clip a wire. So me not knowing any better figured more degrees was better I went right to 25. After I gave up on the locked out timing I started to hear 10 would have been better. Not having it locked didn’t affect the way my car ran since I left off the trans brake And it was full advance on the rev limiter anyway..
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
What exactly did you find with the timing retard? I tried it years ago but couldn’t make it work. I broke one flex plate, chipped another and ruined a starter gear. I loved how the car idled cleaner and would idle almost as soon as I started it with the locked out timing, but the 14:1 compression hated it. I think my issue was the start retard itself. It only had 2 settings 10 and 25. But to get 25 you had to clip a wire. So me not knowing any better figured more degrees was better I went right to 25. After I gave up on the locked out timing I started to hear 10 would have been better. Not having it locked didn’t affect the way my car ran since I left off the trans brake And it was full advance on the rev limiter
What I did to correct my error is................
In the start retard program there is..
Engine RPM ///////Engine Timing
0 /////// 36.0 which is where I run this engine
50 /////// 22.0
500 ///////22.0
800 ///////36.0
At the beginning the rpm is zero and 36* is where I run total timing.
When engine rpm's reach 50 rpm's timing drops to 22* total.
The 500 rpm value is to maintain the 22* at a steady rate which as I understood keeps the timing from "hunting".
At 800 rpm's the retard is dropped and goes back to 36 total at 800 rpm's. It is a matter of choice when you want cranking rpm's and when you want to advance it.
I chose 800 rpm's because I don't like a slow idle so as to prevent the timing from dropping back down when I put it in gear. I like the idle at around 1050rpm's idling. Just my preference.

Time from Launch in seconds ///// Ignition timing in degrees
0.0 ///// 0.0
0.05 ///// -6.0*
.90 ///// -3.0*
1.10 /////0.0
This is all individual choice
At the starting line there is no retard. At .05 seconds after the trans brake release the timing retards 6 *.
At .90 seconds from launch the timing changes to 3* retarded and then at 1.10 seconds the retard is removed completely and the engine is back to no retard. This of course helps with tire spin.
Then there is also the option to change shift light operation using different rpm's for each gear.
No doubt there are other ignitions with these options but based on Dal Trubey's recommendation I went with the MSD 7720 and 7730.
The options available on this unit are many but I'm content with the minimal uses. I have a 7751 box which allows me to alter the launch rpm on a toggle attached to the roll bar within reach.
Hope this helps someone avoid the issues I had for so damned long.
The columns above are supposed to be separated . When I hit post it changes what I typed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
So kinda like I was saying, you didn’t retard it that far. You pulled 14 degrees. I wish I would have tried it at 10 and saw how it worked.
By putting a -15 in there I think it was putting the timing at the wrong end of the scale by far causing a nasty kickback. It takes what you input and put's it right where you input it. I thought I was pulling 15* but I was so damned wrong.
 
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