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Discussion Starter #1
A .060 over 350 with ugh! dished pistons, small chamber 1.94/1.50 heads, and mildly hogged out stock exhaust manifolds for now.

Has anyone ever used a spacer under a Q-Jet?
It is on an Edelbrock Performer (pn 2101) intake.
Engine is running a matched performer cam.
204/214 @ .050 / 424/446 w/ 1.5 roller rockers.

It just doesn't pull like I thought it would....I'd happily take a torque boost over all out HP.

And another thought. A 3" open air cleaner on top of it must suck up some pretty hot air.

Did any car use a dual snorkle cleaner that I could rig up a ram air setup with?

Sorry to run so long!!!!

Dave H.
 

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81 Elcamino, The carbureted Camaro's Used a dual snorkel air cleaner in the mid 80's. You might try looking it up on the Camaro site. They had hoses that went forward to the core support.

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Leo Paugh
Maryland Chevelle Club #017
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks chev64! I need to go parts chasing anyway, and mid 80 Camaros, and Firebirds are fairly common, should be a piece o cake!!!

Dave H.
 

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You might try 1.6:1 rockers. They will boost your lift to .452/.476 and bump your duration up about 3 degrees. Having more lift with only a tiny increase in duration will increase your torque a noticable amount. I run them on the same cam and my engine pulls pretty good.

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Pat Kelley
66 & 67 El Caminos
 

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What is the casting number on the heads? sounds like the next step is a higher stall converter.The goal is " most HP for the buck".The air cleaner you have is ok for now. After the converter, headers, is there a computer controlling the motor? Then go to a shift kit. Building Hp piece by piece is ok if you get the right order. The cam you have would be better with a little more stall. Whats your rear gear and tire size?
Harley
 

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81ElCamino, are the secondaries opening when you're REALLY into it? If you've never heard the "Sound" a Q-jet makes when those HUGE secondaries tip in... that Bbooo-wwWaahhH sound! Guys, help me a little with my sound effects


But seriously, it's called I belive the "secondary air-door/flap" or something like that. The big spring loaded "flap" on top/back of the carb. IF your secondaries are NOT opening, this might be part of your complaint about it not pulling like it should.

There is a spring loaded adjustment screw under the passenger side, top rear lip of the carb.

**NOTE, Since I'm at work and it's been a couple of years since I've adjusted one... proceed with caution until I, (or others) confirm my "instruction" below. I'll look at one at home and change/add to this post.

OR, if you feel like you FULLY understand the basics (below) proceed on!!

The adjustment screw is UNDER the ear on the passenger side rear of carb. It will require an allen head wrench for use on the head of the spring loaded screw which faces down (towards the engine).

There is a set screw (flat head) which has to be loosened before you actually turn the spring-loaded adjustment screw located UNDER the ear. (My memory might have the allen head screw & the flat head screw "switched")

Make SURE you have your allen wrench in place BEFORE you get the set screw loosened. If not you will loose your reference as to where it WAS set. (All is not lost if this happens though)

You only need to adjust it IN/OUT about an 1/8th of a turn or so from it's CURRENT position. TIGHTENING the spring load makes
the secondaries HARDER to get to kick in. LOOSENING the spring tension makes it EASIER to get the secondaries to kick in. Make your adjustment, then tighten the set screw. Tighten or loosen until satisfied with how the secondaries function.

Sounds REALLY GOOD when they're a little on the loose side, but you really DON'T want them to kick in TOO easily.. gas mileage might suffer big time.

Sorry about the length.

Thanks, Len

[This message has been edited by Len (edited 07-08-99).]
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Okay guys. Len, a buddy who knows adjusted the flapper door. Have never yet heard the DooWAH sound, as it has wretched glass packs right now, drones something fierce!
Rearend is next most likely 3.42 up from 2.56!
Pissses me off a guy in my new Car Craft got a 12 bolt posi w/gear (4.88) for $450. Was for a 70 something though (wider track by something like 3 inches)
Crawled all over Pick a Part today, no posi that I could find :-(
And all the 80's Camaros looked like pirhanas had been at them!!!! Open air cleaners are rampant in the mags anyhow!
Anyway, headers and DECENT mufflers w/ crossover are after rear!

Thanks to all, so far, so good!!

Dave H.

[This message has been edited by 81ElCamino (edited 07-08-99).]
 

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81ElCamino, Ouch, that 2.56 REALLY is a problem. Even a move to a 3.07 (3.08) would help a bunch. A 3.42 to 3.55 would be a little better for an everyday driver with some street/performance.

Thanks, Len
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Tell me about it Len, between the stupid mufflers, and the 2.56 peg leg...it's a wonder it goes at all!
We (dad and I) got the car from my uncle "The Butcher". We've changed EVERYTHING we found so far except paint, wheels/tires, shortblock, and trans (and of course rear end...YET!)
We're WAY lo buck...HOORAY for Car Craft!!!

Ya'll are very helpfull , THANKS!

Dave H.
Houston
 

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81,
Have you advanced initial timing up to about 16? Agree with 3.08-3.42 posi.

[This message has been edited by SirVette (edited 12-22-1999).]
 

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Discussion Starter #11
SirVette, the timing is at approx 16 initial!!!
I say approx, because my timing mark is eyeball TDC, not "official" TDC. It is close to starting trouble advanced, but it NEVER pings????

I'm asking all kinds of people, how to do a LOW buck 3.42 posi....I'm at a point of looking for a 9" 0r mopar 8 3/4" of the correct length at Pick a part or somewhere, and having it attached to the stock suspension points. I want to do a rear end only once. And the 7.5" 10 bolt just screams WIMP! (there's a powerfull 406 in the future!)
 
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