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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Yes I have read numerous threads on here and all over the net on this subject so lets put down the facts here this thread will help others so lets just keep this on roller solid camshafts not hydraulic rollers,flat tappet hydraulics or solid flat tappet lifters please. I am gonna make a list of questions please answer to best of your knowledge. On all the discussions there are so many variables and inconsistant results because the answerto these questions are not stated. This should help show some patterns.
1. What engine are you running a roller solid in? Big Block, Small Block, Generation such as LT1 or LS and it's cubic inch diameter
2. What is the general purpose of your car? Is it a street car, daily driver, street track, street race, show car, etc
3. How many miles do you drive a year?
4. How many miles on your current set of lifters?
5. What maintenance and/or modifications do you do to keep them alive? like a rev kit, grooved lifter bores, pre oiler, shaft rockers, rocker stud gurdle, replace or rebuild twice a year that kind of info
6. Have you had a failure and at how many runs and/or miles?
7. What are your valve spring specs?
8. How much lift?
9. Any other info you want to share?
 

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383 chevy
260/[email protected] Isky SR 640 lift 108 lsa
.018 cold lash
Comp springs 210 seat
Crower non hippo rollers
Jesel 1.6
no special anything else
been sitting for a yr and a half maybe the springs will go bad maybe not?

I dont worry about it, if it goes it goes. Dont believe any special procedure or sauce will make it last any longer it is what it is all I know is I love the way it sounds and runs
Seen brand new stock engines drop a valve at idle why worry.
The DD Id expect to be trouble free (which is hasnt been even new) not this one
 

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10.5 comp 406 , custom 262/269 4/7 swap .630" net lift .018" cold lash Cam Motion HIPPO Lifters.
225-240lbs seat pressure and 600-650lbs open pressure.
They Have been in the engine for 4.5yrs now.
I probably Need valve spring too!
Street/race deal with maybe 4/5k a year.
It will be more as I'm in the process of doing a 80E swap.
 

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10.5 comp 406 , custom 262/269 4/7 swap .630" net lift .018" cold lash Cam Motion HIPPO Lifters.
225-240lbs seat pressure and 600-650lbs open pressure.
They Have been in the engine for 4.5yrs now.
I probably Need valve spring too!
Street/race deal with maybe 4/5k a year.
It will be more as I'm in the process of doing a 80E swap.
Chris what is the lsa on that cam? Are you keeping the 4.30 gears? How do you think the cam would do at say 2500 cruise rpm with the converter locked?
 

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1. Been running solid rollers on the street since 2000. All 1st gen smallblocks. First motor was a 355 that was built in 1998. Did a head swap (AFR 210) and solid roller in 2000 (264/274 @ 0.050" 0.630" lift, 102 ICL, 106 LSA). In 2008 I rebuilt the 355 and installed a nitrous solid roller (268/274 @ 0.050", 0.630" lift, 108 ICL, 112 LSA). Current motor was built in 2013 and is a 427 (274/286 @ 0.050", 0.704" lift, 108 ICL, 112 LSA).
2. In 2000 the 355 was a daily driver that I took to the track once or twice per year. After 2004 it was no longer a daily driver. Ran low 11's on the motor and mid 10's on a 150 shot. The next roller was installed in 2008 and the car was no longer a daily driver. Would go to the track several times per year and drive on the street. Same for the current motor.
3. The first motor was driven about 5,000 miles per year. Since 2008 I drive it less than 1,000 miles per year.
4. Current lifters have about 1,000 miles. They were rebuilt in 2015 because of a moisture issue. The old 355 from 2000 had about 20,000 miles when I replaced them. One of them was starting to go. No damage.
5. When the car was a daily driver I checked the lash 4 times per year. When first installed I checked the lash after about 1 week, then 1 month and then moved to every 3 months. The most important thing to do is keep track of which valves need adjustment. If a valve needs to be adjusted twice in a row, you need to pull everything and inspect. That is how I caught the lifter starting to go at 4 years with zero damage. Nothing special, no rev kit, just a double bar stud girdle.
6. As stated in 5, I caught a lifter going away because I kept track of which valves needed adjustment and pulled them for inspection when I needed to adjust the same one twice.
7. The old cam from 2000 was 230 on the seat and 550 open. The current is 260 on the seat and 600+ open.
8. The cam in 2000 and the one in 2008 were 0.630" lift. The current cam is 0.704" lift.
9. Don't neglect the valvetrain. If you hear a noise pull the covers and take a look. Also, keep track of which valves need adjustment.
 

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Small blocks don't have the same problems with solid rollers on the street as do the canted valved big blocks. Have heard stories by some who proclaim a long life with a bbc and sold rollers but That's not been my experience. When Comp came out with their street roller stuff I bought into it and had a time where 8 axles literally fell out of the lifters. Once while making a pass I had one come out under the lifter bore making a significant amount of racket so the car got trailered home. Too much 30 mile one way drives to the track in California stop and go traffic. The cam and lifters failed in short order. I switched to solid flat tappet for years and gave up nothing to the solid roller in speed and et. Not saying a different solid roller wouldn't have made more power but I went the easier more reiable direction. I was never unhappy with my Isky Flat Tappet Solid flat tappet.
 

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Often wondered the same thing about SFT cams.
Probably give up a lil driveability but shoot on a BB why not. Guys running some fast stuff with a good head and as S.Boats a SFT less worries
 

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Just installed a Mike Jones solid roller in my 502BB equipped 69 Vette. Cam is 263 & 269 @ .050 and around .700 gross lift. 240 on the seat. Running Morel bushing lifters from Straub and Jesel competition shafts. Car is 99 percent street. Haven't put any miles on it yet, but was sold to me as a mild street cam. Bushing lifters will help tell me when wear is happening. Made 50hp and 50tq more than [email protected] solid flat tappet and peaked at 6500 in a 502. I would go with one of the cam guys here and the best parts you can afford and take the chance, with attentive maintainence. My flat tappet was going away but caught it early. Was starting to pit and gall from sitting. Only a matter of time.
 

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Chris what is the lsa on that cam? Are you keeping the 4.30 gears? How do you think the cam would do at say 2500 cruise rpm with the converter locked?

It's 110 LSA.
Yes I'm keeping the 4.30's. The converter won't be locked till 55 or higher and drop out at 35% or higher throttle.
Got to love electronics!
With it in 4th and locked, it will be like having 3.55's
While that doesn't sound like much, it's a big drop from 4.30's.:thumbsup:
 

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I had 2 or 3 solid roller failures in my BBC and went to short travel hydraulic cam/rollers (that cam is a 255/265 680 lift). The cam specs in my solid rollers were 670-680 lift and duration in the 260 / 270 at .050. The engines were BBC - a 468 and a 540 CID with Crower SS rockers and Dart heads with a stud girdle. Spring pressure was the usual like 200 pounds on the seat and 500+ pounds on the nose. I think I had Comp, Lunati lifters and Isky solid roller lifters. This was back in early 1990s through like 2009. The car was mainly street driven like 2,000-3,000 miles a year. Now I did have a very mild 630 lift roller back in the mid to late 80s that I did not have a problem with and I remember the spring pressures were much less. The lash on my rollers ranged from .018 to .030. I think as time progressed the manafucturers reduced the lash to prevent bounce. As far as maintenance I did check the lash and springs from time to time and changed the oil as needed. Now maybe things are better now for solid rollers but I think the issue is you must keep up the maintenance with the lash and the spring pressures. The guy above that mentioned his routine that's what you need to do. Bad springs will take out a set of lifters quick. Other good valve train parts are a must. I am wondering that if you store the car for the winter you should back off the valve spring adjustments - can you imaging sitting in one spot for 3-4 months at 600 pounds on the nose. The problem is you never know when the grenade is going to go off and when you are driving along and hear the squeal it is too late the lifter is toast so is the cam and metal shavings have now sprinkled all in your engine. The question you have to ask yourself is "do you feel lucky punk" and want to do the necessary maintenance. I am sure I could have prevented some of my lifter failures (and some could just be bad parts) but on the other hand I do not want to be pulling the valves covers all the time either. Maybe the guy above has a point on the BBC that there may be some inherent issues with them along with their really heavy valves. Anyway some of this was off topic, in summary good parts and keep an eye on things.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
10.5 comp 406 , custom 262/269 4/7 swap .630" net lift .018" cold lash Cam Motion HIPPO Lifters.
225-240lbs seat pressure and 600-650lbs open pressure.
They Have been in the engine for 4.5yrs now.
I probably Need valve spring too!
Street/race deal with maybe 4/5k a year.
It will be more as I'm in the process of doing a 80E swap.
Sbc bbc gets confusing eith the largers cids
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
1. Been running solid rollers on the street since 2000. All 1st gen smallblocks. First motor was a 355 that was built in 1998. Did a head swap (AFR 210) and solid roller in 2000 (264/274 @ 0.050" 0.630" lift, 102 ICL, 106 LSA). In 2008 I rebuilt the 355 and installed a nitrous solid roller (268/274 @ 0.050", 0.630" lift, 108 ICL, 112 LSA). Current motor was built in 2013 and is a 427 (274/286 @ 0.050", 0.704" lift, 108 ICL, 112 LSA).
2. In 2000 the 355 was a daily driver that I took to the track once or twice per year. After 2004 it was no longer a daily driver. Ran low 11's on the motor and mid 10's on a 150 shot. The next roller was installed in 2008 and the car was no longer a daily driver. Would go to the track several times per year and drive on the street. Same for the current motor.
3. The first motor was driven about 5,000 miles per year. Since 2008 I drive it less than 1,000 miles per year.
4. Current lifters have about 1,000 miles. They were rebuilt in 2015 because of a moisture issue. The old 355 from 2000 had about 20,000 miles when I replaced them. One of them was starting to go. No damage.
5. When the car was a daily driver I checked the lash 4 times per year. When first installed I checked the lash after about 1 week, then 1 month and then moved to every 3 months. The most important thing to do is keep track of which valves need adjustment. If a valve needs to be adjusted twice in a row, you need to pull everything and inspect. That is how I caught the lifter starting to go at 4 years with zero damage. Nothing special, no rev kit, just a double bar stud girdle.
6. As stated in 5, I caught a lifter going away because I kept track of which valves needed adjustment and pulled them for inspection when I needed to adjust the same one twice.
7. The old cam from 2000 was 230 on the seat and 550 open. The current is 260 on the seat and 600+ open.
8. The cam in 2000 and the one in 2008 were 0.630" lift. The current cam is 0.704" lift.
9. Don't neglect the valvetrain. If you hear a noise pull the covers and take a look. Also, keep track of which valves need adjustment.
Steve shich lifters did you run and are running now?
Small blocks don't have the same problems with solid rollers on the street as do the canted valved big blocks. Have heard stories by some who proclaim a long life with a bbc and sold rollers but That's not been my experience. When Comp came out with their street roller stuff I bought into it and had a time where 8 axles literally fell out of the lifters. Once while making a pass I had one come out under the lifter bore making a significant amount of racket so the car got trailered home. Too much 30 mile one way drives to the track in California stop and go traffic. The cam and lifters failed in short order. I switched to solid flat tappet for years and gave up nothing to the solid roller in speed and et. Not saying a different solid roller wouldn't have made more power but I went the easier more reiable direction. I was never unhappy with my Isky Flat Tappet Solid flat tappet.
 

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Steve which lifters did you run and are running now?
From 2000 to 2015 I ran the Crower non-pressure fed lifters #66200. I ran two sets during that time. Current lifters are Crower Enduramax.
 

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I am presently using Isky EZX solid roller lifters. The car doesn't get street time any more, it is a menace in the neighborhood. Car alarms and stuff. Gas is too expensive blah blah blah. I'm a little wiser now and wouldn't run a solid roller on the street because it will fail in southern california traffic. It's only a matter of when. My sft was agressive as hell yet very tolerable and had friendly street manners. 7 years before that engine was pulled from sevice but it will still run like it did the day I pulled it. You aren't going to get that out of a sr cam.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I am presently using Isky EZX solid roller lifters. The car doesn't get street time any more, it is a menace in the neighborhood. Car alarms and stuff. Gas is too expensive blah blah blah. I'm a little wiser now and wouldn't run a solid roller on the street because it will fail in southern california traffic. It's only a matter of when. My sft was agressive as hell yet very tolerable and had friendly street manners. 7 years before that engine was pulled from sevice but it will still run like it did the day I pulled it. You aren't going to get that out of a sr cam.
Thats how the isky solid flat in my 355 was
 

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#1 468 - drove it on the street quite a bit, but no trip over about 30 miles at a time. Used Crower HIPPO lifters that had 50 passes on them in a 565 with some serious springs (one of my friends changed them every 50 passes, I bought one of his take out sets). Can't remember exact cam specs, around [email protected] 050 and .680 or so lift. Around 100 passes on the track. [email protected] on the seat, a little over 500 open. Traded running motor, lifters were fine. Shifted this engine at 6800-7000.
#2 496- same as above, probably 2000 miles on lifters plus 100-150 passes. Howard's solid rollers, [email protected] on the seat, around 530 open. It ended up eating a "Buzzard" (sorry can't call them by their real name, I'll throw up) H beam L19 rod. Put it back together with more compression, put another 50-75 passes on it, and sold engine running with no problems. Shifted this one @6500
#3 496- current engine, it's apart to be freshened up. Voodoo 60233 solid roller, [email protected] around 530 open, a few street miles (less than 100 probably) and over 400 passes, Lunati tie bar solid roller lifters. Lifters feel fine, not sure if I'm going to change them yet or wait until summer (usually very little racing in July-August because it gets hot in these parts). Had just broke a spring, I believe the springs had gotten weak prematurely-possibly bad batch or maybe just a fluke failure, who knows..shifted at 6300
#4 360 SBC- 13:1 SBC that was on my old SC dragster back in the late '90s, Lunati spring loaded lifters, whatever roller spring came on Track 1 package heads back then, crane .615 lift cam, crane gold rockers and stud girdle, shifted @ 7600, bought that engine as a short block with probably 100 passes on it and those lifters were in it, I re-used them and race 2 more seasons on them, no problems at all. Swapped out short block for a 406, re-used those same lifters, put another 50-60 passes on them, sold car running. Looking back, those lifters probably had 1000 passes on them..
Had a couple more, but don't remember specifics..I've had more problems with BBC flat tappets than with rollers. Lost 1 sft on breakin with EDM lifters, inner springs taken out, oil additive, etc. and lost 1 more but wasn't the cam or lifters fault (bottom end bearing problem put metal in the oil). But, never had any trouble with SFT or HFT cams in SBCs, used a ton of them over the years.
 

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OP there are zillions of topics on this via google or pick a forum
Some run them a LONG time with success others have premature failures trying to figure it all out dont think it will happen

IMO quality of parts, and whoever is adjusting them has quite a bit to do wiht the result
not en engine builder to take it fwiw but lots of sad stories stem from someone buying the cheapest stuff they can then wondering why it puked
Good lifters arent cheap, splurge get a billet core good pushrods make sure the lash is set just right you should be fine. Springs are affordable.
Even a large HR will need springs as part of maintenance no free lunch

Going to run mine forever let it idle a lot and not worry about it

If you dig the solid roller just put one in and enjoy it. They friggin rock, nothing runs or sounds like em imo.
Anything can break
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
OP there are zillions of topics on this via google or pick a forum
Some run them a LONG time with success others have premature failures trying to figure it all out dont think it will happen

IMO quality of parts, and whoever is adjusting them has quite a bit to do wiht the result
not en engine builder to take it fwiw but lots of sad stories stem from someone buying the cheapest stuff they can then wondering why it puked
Good lifters arent cheap, splurge get a billet core good pushrods make sure the lash is set just right you should be fine. Springs are affordable.
Even a large HR will need springs as part of maintenance no free lunch

Going to run mine forever let it idle a lot and not worry about it

If you dig the solid roller just put one in and enjoy it. They friggin rock, nothing runs or sounds like em imo.
Anything can break
I feel that happens too Joe Shmoe fresh out of middle school never prepped a block or knew about oiling issues in a sbc threw a set of ebay pro comps in cause they were cheaper then hydraulic rollers on the biggest cam with no springs. Beat the rollers off in 500 miles . Over dramatic maybe little. I am an Isky fan and there kits for $1535 has a ton of value. I would like to see if I can get a upgrade to the EZ jr it is about $80 more. I will have a modified oiling system and allot prep into my block. I am aware of that they are a maintenance item also. I am just trying to get a good set of facts down to compare for others and along with proof to my own assumptions from countless searching.
 
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