[383]

I`am about to buy and install a Comp cam solid roller cam in my sbc stroker (383) so the question is: what should i think about when installing it in terms of break in (if there is any?) and so on.
I`ve read about the flat tappet break in by SWHEATON , that is very informativ but way too late for me and my former Edelbrock cam.

//jimmy

 

[RedSS454]

From what I have heard there is no break in on a roller cam. While I don't know for sure, I believe that's what it is. The biggest thing IMO is oil pressure. Thats my $.02 and a bump for someone else who knows better to see it.

Chris

 

[bracketchev1221]

No there is no break in on a roller like a flat tappet. I mean don't start it and wing it to the moon, but take it easy and let it run for a while before you beat it up.

 

[GOSFAST]

I`am about to buy and install a Comp cam solid roller cam in my sbc stroker (383) so the question is: what should i think about when installing it in terms of break in (if there is any?) and so on.
I`ve read about the flat tappet break in by SWHEATON , that is very informativ but way too late for me and my former Edelbrock cam.
//jimmy

First off, there is no "break-in" period as in all "flat-tappet" cams. You can start it and let it idle with either a Hyd. or Mech. Roller setup. We hear about all "new" brands of lifters, Hippo's, Red Lines or Red Zones, or whatever, but we don't pay too much attention to the mfr's. We manage to get long life from most brands. And MOST of my personal units are street-cars. What we have seen through the years is improper installation procedures initially cause the "wheels" to go down prematurely. The other post here (RedSS454) has seen a unit driving around town here and I'm sure if he speaks with my customer who owns the car (he's a pretty "cool" guy) he can confirm this as the truth. It's a '62 Vette with a "Blue-Racer" mech. roller setup that has been "street-driven" (on & off) in his car since 1990. Never a lifter issue, just a number of valve spring changes over the years. The main item to remember is this, you have to get all the "shelf-life" material out of the new lifters. The only way to accomplish this is by "soaking" them in either clean "Mineral Spirits" OR clean laquer thinners. Laquer thinners are a little harder to come by these days. After they've soaked for some 24 hours, you can "blow dry" them and then resoak them in a container of clean engine oil, 10W-40 or 20-50 weight for at least another 24 hours. The weight of the oil is not too important. They are now ready to install. On a final note here, VERY IMPORTANT, prime the oil system on the stand BEFORE you install the unit, this will make certain there's at least a fresh oil supply on the roller lobes when you "fire" it up. The oil that stays on the lifters will actually be enough
"run" down and coat the lobes while you're assembling the short block. Thanks, Gary in N.Y.
P.S. We have a high number of street-cars done many years ago (10 or more years) with the same lifters still inside. WE just "looked" inside a "Blown-Injected 426 C.I. Hemi-Coupe" done in 1997 and decided to reuse the lifters at the customer's request. One more "tip" here, don't let the unit stay in one position for month's (up here in the N.E., in the winter), this WILL cause some springs do go way down on tension and begin to destroy the lifters when you take the car out of storage due to inadequate spring pressure. And one last and important tip, don't try to stretch the spring use out too long, change them at least (depending on the amount of use) every other season, or at least get a tester and check them on the car. Moroso sells one that works.

 

[eversharpe]

For what it's worth the break-in instructions for my crate 383 roller ZZ4 call for the same break-in as all flat cams engines. ie 1/2 hour at 2000 rpm, change oil etc. The cam and roller lifters are installed with cam assembly lube - right? It can't hurt to break 'em in anyway, in my opinion.

DEversharpe

 

[383]

Hmm....so it`s good to go after i`ve run the engine for 15 minutes and an oil change?
Sounds very simple to me

 

[bracketchev1221]

Yeah that's about it. I run my motor on the dyno for about that long and then shut it down and retorque everything and then beat it up.

 

[forcd ind]

im sure you know this, but since it wasnt mentioned, make sure you use a cam button, to keep the cam from "walking" forward, and has the proper clearance
like gosfast said, clean everything-just because it comes in a bag, doesnt mean its clean-i had some crane pushrods a while back, and when i went to clean them, aprx 30% were partially blocked, 2 were comp blocked, seems when they were welded together crap got in there-can you imagine installing them, then try and figure out why some valves arnt getting oil

 

[Whittaker]

So with a solid roller you only get 1 season out of a set of springs? I'm going to switch to a roller but not sure about hyd or solid. I drive 98% street but I'm thinking more track time this year and have thought about a street solid roller.

 

[GOSFAST]

So with a solid roller you only get 1 season out of a set of springs? I'm going to switch to a roller but not sure about hyd or solid. I drive 98% street but I'm thinking more track time this year and have thought about a street solid roller.

Solid rollers have to be checked occasionally, but should get at least a season with no issues. As for the hyd. rollers (on SB's) we've got some in service for 5 years (1999) now with no issues. Our customer's do maintain their units regularly. BB's we check more often, however. Thanks, Gary in N.Y.
P.S. I get many calls from my customers over a period of time ordering new springs so they can replace them. With respect to mech. rollers, there's not really any set times to change them, you have to stay on top of them more often. If you use any Vasco/H11 roller springs they should only be "run" after the unit has reached "normal" operating temps. Many of our "higher-end" street units now use titanium valves, both intakes and exhausts, with lash caps. This leads to much extended spring life.

 

[Whittaker]

I think a hyd roller is more my level. Thanks for the info. Sorry to post in your thread.

 

[RedSS454]

The other post here (RedSS454) has seen a unit driving around town here and I'm sure if he speaks with my customer who owns the car (he's a pretty "cool" guy) he can confirm this as the truth. It's a '62 Vette with a "Blue-Racer" mech. roller setup that has been "street-driven" (on & off) in his car since 1990. Never a lifter issue, just a number of valve spring changes over the years.

Yup. While I havn't spoken to him recently, he is a nice guy and has a very well set-up car.


Now I have a quesiton. Why do the BBC solid rollers wear out springs so quickly? I got my motor from a guy complete with 300 miles and a crane solid roller. How quickly will the springs wear out with street driving and abuse? I will not run it at the track much (as E-town is 2 hours away), but that doesn't mean it won't see a few blasts. What would I look for? Obvious cracks? or more subtle things? Thanks,

Chris

 

[383]

Yeah that's about it. I run my motor on the dyno for about that long and then shut it down and retorque everything and then beat it up.

Can you tell me exactly what i should retorque?
Is it the head gaskets and intake manifold, exhaust gasket or more?

Thanks for the all help // jimmy

 

[GOSFAST]

Now I have a quesiton. Why do the BC solid rollers wear out springs so quickly? I got my motor from a guy complete with 300 miles and a crane solid roller. How quickly will the springs wear out with street driving and abuse? I will not run it at the track much (as E-town is 2 hours away), but that doesn't mean it won't see a few blasts. What would I look for? Obvious cracks? or more subtle things? Thanks,
Chris

Hi Chris, the ONLY way to extend spring life, this is especially true in BB's, is to run the lightest components between the lifter and the "head" of the valve. The spring is the only item here that maintains stability, every other piece in the equation is trying to overcome that one item (this includes the pushrods). We've seen circle-track units get more than a season from springs when they run Titanium valves. We are aware of the initial cost, but it's more than offset by the amount of the cost of a number of spring changes over time. A decent set of springs now runs about $300.00+ for SB's and $350.00+ for BB's. You can use lower priced springs, but with a yet higher risk factor. We feel it's not "safe" to go more than 1 season with the same springs on a street-car, where much time is spent idling (normal driving in our area), at traffic lights and stop signs. Most important, don't run 3/8" stems in BB's, no Chrome-Moly retainer's, and pay close attention to ALL the weights of the components, even down to R/A weight. Get hold of Moroso's
"on the car" spring tester and keep a close watch on the springs. DON'T sit the unit through the winter with any valves "open". Back off the R/A's or run it (not necessarily drive it) occasionally during the Winter if it's going to sit for any length of time. Thanks, Gary in N.Y.
P.S. On a final note here, try to run a "rev-kit" in ALL (roller) street-cars, it keeps the lifters from "slamming" into the lobes on the opening side of the ramps at the point the lash is absorbed. This is tough on the "wheels". Also make sure you use "Race-oil" only. We're in the process of staying with Valvoline "Race" and Pennzoil (25W-50) at the request of many customers. The 25W-50 Pennzoil in particular is designed for gas, methanol, and "nitro" fuels.