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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a voodoo 268 cam, i just put my motor together and had a lifter fail. I decided to switch over to solid lifters to avoid the hydraulic issues. Can i just run regular lunati solid lifters. (the ones from jegs $91.00) Thanks Any suggestions please

thanks

evan
 

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I have a voodoo 268 cam, i just put my motor together and had a lifter fail. I decided to switch over to solid lifters to avoid the hydraulic issues. Can i just run regular lunati solid lifters. (the ones from jegs $91.00) Thanks Any suggestions please

thanks

evan
What issues would you be avoiding by going with solids?? Maybe Im just missing something.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
issues like putting together a 6,000 long block and then having a stupid problem like a hydralic lifter fail.....only one failed, im not the happiest camper. Plus i just built a healthy motor and if i didnt want to tweak on it i would have not put a larger cam and other performance goodies so why dont i just go to solid and then all never have to deal with lifters again. All be working on the motor all the time so whats the drawback in setting valve lash every so often. If i cant run a solid lifter then i guess all just replace it
 

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I have heard about that before running solids on a hydraulic cam . Usually a cam that is designed for solid lifters the ramps or more aggressive for it . If you put that much money in your short block , why would you want to take the risk of tearing up your cam and filling your engine full of metal and ruining your crank etc.

Dave
 

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If you drive by an automatic transmission rebuilding shop, and observe the cars on the lot, you will see all makes of cars and they will be of varying ages. Mechanical part failure is not prone to any part, of any particular manufacturer. When something fails, something that has worked in tens of thousands of other situations, the soundest approach is to replace the defective part with a good one just like it. This has been the basis of engine repair for 100 years.

Replace the bad hydralic lifter! Remember to use the same break-in procedure you would use when installing a new cam. Live long and prosper!

To paraphrase Freud: "Sometimes a bad lifter is just a bad lifter."
 

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issues like putting together a 6,000 long block and then having a stupid problem like a hydralic lifter fail.....only one failed, im not the happiest camper. Plus i just built a healthy motor and if i didnt want to tweak on it i would have not put a larger cam and other performance goodies so why dont i just go to solid and then all never have to deal with lifters again. All be working on the motor all the time so whats the drawback in setting valve lash every so often. If i cant run a solid lifter then i guess all just replace it
I think someone, either you or me, isnt understanding something here....you will have the same issues with a solid lifter as with a hydraulic, as far as losing the lifter or cam on break-in....now if you're talking about going to roller type cam and lifters, that's another story. But just going to solids over hydraulics will not solve your problems at all. Did this lifter just go bad right after break-in, or was it rebuilt some time ago? How is the cam?? Not to give you anything else to worry about, but the metal from the lifter that has gone bad is in your engine somewhere....if the lifter wore against the cam lobe, there's a good chance the cam is damaged too. So, before you go replacing anything, I would do a good hard check on everything and see what kind of damage has been done. If the cam lobe is worn or damaged even a little, you new lifter will fail within a few minutes anyway. Check things out and let us know. John
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
the motor has few miles on it and the lifter went bad just shortly after the motor was broken in. All other parts of valve train has been checked and i think the cam is ok. All other lifters are working properly. I think it was just a bum lifter, just some bad luck. The cam is a new 268 voodoo.

thanks

evan
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
correct with the motor cranking over you can see the #1 intake rocker arm not go down as much as all the others, i looked down the pushrod bore and saw that when the lifter sits in the bore it sits resesed. I measured it and it sits a 1/4 down in the bore. I think the pluger inside went bad.
 

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You have to pull that lifter out and check it for wear..As Dan said, if it's the lifter face wearing out, so is the cam lobe, and you might as well pull it now before there is any more damage.
 

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i have been running hydrolic cams in race boat for 20 years with no failures and rpms as high as 7500. i think you had a failure of some sort but it sounds like you have wiped a lobe on your cam, you do not want to run a solid lifter on your hydrolic cam,lobe grind is diffrent cut for oil retention. you realy need to inspect that lobe, you can measure the lobe lift to see if cam lobe is wiped.
 

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i have been running hydrolic cams in race boat for 20 years with no failures and rpms as high as 7500. i think you had a failure of some sort but it sounds like you have wiped a lobe on your cam, you do not want to run a solid lifter on your hydrolic cam,lobe grind is diffrent cut for oil retention. you realy need to inspect that lobe, you can measure the lobe lift to see if cam lobe is wiped.
=
Say what??,,,, :D :D
While I agree that it sounds like a failed lobe & running solids on a hyd flat tappet cam is not a good idea,,,
You are going to have to explain to me what any "cam, lobe grind" has to do with "oil retention" :confused:
How do you cut a cam different for oil retention?
 

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it is the angle of the lobe that rotates the lifter, this angle is more aggressive on a solid flat tappet, as lifter rotates oil is drawn into place.
her is a link to vid of race boat, this is my 283 hydrolic cam 2bbl 6500 rpm motor. g127 extreme.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AsMqogYf_ZA
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
i dont see how the cam is bad, i have not even ran the motor enough or hard enough for something like that to happen, i notice the lifter problem when i was going through and adjusting the valves, do you really think it is necessary to take the cam and lifters out and put all new in.
 

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start off by removing that lifter and looking at it, use a dial indicator setup on lifter and measure cam lobe, it is common for cam and lifter failures during breakin. if cam lobe is ok replace that lifter you can purchase lifters as singles. if lifter is calapsed probably dirt in lifter caused it, that is most common can even be pakaging material in lifter.make sure when you turn engine over that lifter spins in its bore.
 

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70cartruck,

You can wipe a lifter during breakin, it is that easy to do. I hope you took all precautions when breaking the cam in, ie, remove inner valve spring, GM EOS added, either straight 30 wt oil or use Shell Rotella or Chevron Delo oil, extra quart of oil for extra splash, etc.

I ran without my inner springs for 50 miles to ensure good break in. Of course, this driving was for short trips to the grocery store, etc., keeping the rpms down. I have a solid ft, and use the EDM hole lifters, another added benefit of using a solid ft cam.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
i have already inspected the lifter in the bore but it will be a few days before i can pull it out, do you think if i call lunati and tell them my situation they will send me a new lifter for free?
 

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i looked down the pushrod bore and saw that when the lifter sits in the bore it sits resesed. I measured it and it sits a 1/4 down in the bore. I think the pluger inside went bad.
70, I think you are missing the point here. Is the lifter itself down in its bore 1/4 inch, or is just the pushrod down in the bore more than the others ? If the entire lifter is down further, then it is junk along with the lobe on the cam.

And yes .... it ccan happen in as little as 15 minutes of running time :(
 
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