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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Newb here!

I have done alot of searching on this site over the last few months and there seems to be a ton of knowledge i would like to call upon...

Here is what I am working with..

'82 350 4 Bolt bored .030" over
*secured with ARP main studs #134-5601

Manley Forged 10:1 Sportsmaster Flat Top pistons
*full floating/2 valve reliefs

Speed Pro file fit plasma moly ring set # 9771.035
*file fit to .024" first & second rings

Summit Pro Line 4340 forged crank and rods
*3.48 stroke/5.7" length

Comp Cams Xtreme Energy 274 hydraulic flat tappet cam
*.487"/.490" lift 230/236 degrees duration at .050" lift/110 lobe sep

Comp Cams Pro Magnum steel roller rockers 1.52-3/8 stud

Cloyes "True" double roller timing chain #9-3100

AFR #1036 195's 64cc street ported heads straight plug
*milled from 74 to 64 cc @ AFR
*secured with ARP head studs #134-4001

Edelbrock Performer RPM Air Gap dual plane

Speed Demon 750 DP carb (choke horn milled, blended into primaries)

7.25" Fluidampr SFI harmonic damper

Moroso 6 quart pan 8.25" deep #20180

MSD Pro Billet #8361 distributor/MSD Blaster SS coil/6AL

Hooker #2210 full length headers (1.75" primaries / 3" collectors)

Dual 2.5" into 3" single y pipe

Flowmaster Force II single 3" exhaust

T56 6 speed transmission

Moser 12 bolt / 3.73 gears

Approximate weight of 3500lbs with full tank and driver.

Car is a summer 90% street toy with occasional strip visit..like 4 times a year.

Looking for more power all around and wanna try a solid cam. No rollers, too much money for what i do with the car. Would like an RPM range of 2000-7000 or so. Would love to keep power brakes with little to no problems. They work flawless with the current cam's vacuum of 11.5-12 @ hot idle, 750 rpm.

What would you recommend?
 

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If you want to go solid, run the cam that I have:
Lunati 401A6Lun
Advertised Duration IN/EX: 276/284
Duration @.050 IN/EX: 243/251
Gross Valve Lift IN/EX: .518"/.530"
Lobe Sep Angle / Intake Ctr Line: 110/104
Valve Lash IN/EX: .026"/.026"
RPM Range: 2500-6800

I have it ground on 112lsa, installed at 106icl. It works my power brakes just fine. I have the AFR 180sh, and Holley 670 SA, but the rest of your setup is about the same as mine. It pulls extremely hard from 2800-6500. It has a wicked idle when cold, and still a cool one when fully warmed up. I use the EDM hole lifters for extra lubrication. It drops your oil pressure a little bit, but I just went to a 15-40 to help that out, problem solved.
 

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i would recomend the comp magnum 282S. the grind number 12-223-4. it has .495 lift and 236* advertise duration. due to the fact u have aftermarket heads i would just go with a single pattern. also this cam pulled down 15iches of vacume in both my 406s. if u wanna step up the lift a bit and maybe a bit more duration, go for the comp magnum 294S
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The Z25 is a nice cam!

Wow, those others are some healthy cams. Mind you I am used to running hydraulic cams all these years. I am thinking I should keep the duration @ .050" to 245 or less with having only 10:1? I am just afraid to go with too big a cam. On the other hand I really wanna use the flow potential of these AFR's as well. After searching through a few company's catalogs last night I like the look of the CC 274S or 282S (or something similar). I don't have to stay Comp. But is this even a step up (274H to 274S/282S) from the cam I am running?
 

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Look at the seat to seat duration on the Lunati 401A6Lun that I recommended, almost the same, BUT, the duration @ .050 is where it will come alive and win hands down over hyour hydraulic. If you want to compare apples to apples, take away 8* from a solid at .050, and that is the same as a hydraulic.

With that said, the Lunati is the next step up from what you are currently running at .235/.243 in hydraulic terms, and you have the compression that it likes, and the heads to take advantage of the cam.

I run a tight lash on mine, as much as Harold recommended, .018 on both sides.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Now that explanation certainley helps me understand your recommendation better. I like the Lunati..hmm.

Now my question for you would be how is this cam around town? soggy or still crisp? We have the same gears but I have the T56 which really drops the rpm's on the freeway.
 

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I have excellent throttle response, and I think that the smaller carb that I have helps with that, since I only have 9.5-1 compression. However, you have the compression as recommended, and it should be real nice.

That cam is one of Harold's most popular sbc grinds, and it is the smallest street/strip grind that is in Lunati's line up.

Here is what he said to me about it:
"The 401A6LUN is the most popular street solid cam I have, it makes 430 BHP at 6200 in a 9.2:1 355---Same dyno as the 561 BHP 468, and very, very, conservative. In a 10+:1 355, I would expect 450 on the same dyno, or up to 500-510 on some of those West Coast dynos. The 401A6 has gone 100,000 miles on the street"

I hope this helps you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
What made you go with the 112LS?

and

You say "I run a tight lash on mine, as much as Harold recommended, .018 on both sides."

What does this accomplish and would you recommend I set this cam up the same way if I go with it in my 355?

I am leaning towards this cam, you are a hell of a salesman:yes:
 

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I went with 112 to help with vacuum and my power brakes, and because I wanted better idle quality, and not as peaky torque. It came out just as planned, because I drive this everyday.

What I mean by tight lash is that instead of .026 lash, I run .018, which per Harold is about as tight as I can go with those lobe profiles. He should know, he designed them!! What that does is give more duration, and makes it seem as if you have a little bigger cam, without losing too much bottom end. It just plain works. I would recommend it for you, again, since you have the compression and heads.

Thanks for the compliment. I am just giving the advice as to what works for me in my setup, and yours is pretty close, but better with more compression and head. Harold sold the idea to me, and he should know of anyone. I love the "dropped jaw" look I get from the camaro and mustang guys when my old 85 GMC shortbed just walks away from them. :D
 

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wildman926 would that same 401A6 work in my combo: I might be switching cams do to a bad lifter issue...

engine: 383 ci
forged scat stroker crank, scat h beams, mahle 10.7 to 1 pistons
lunati voodoo cam 268
edelbrock rpm intake
dart iron eagle 180cc heads, 64cc (im pretty sure the springs will take it)
holley 750 dp
holley 110 ghp fuel pump
trans:
th350 w/tci streetfighter 3500

3.55 gear

this is in a 1970 elcamino thanks evan
 

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If I were to stroke my 355 to a 383, I would not change a thing on my set up. It would really make it more with more torque, and that is a good thing with a heavy truck and driven on the street daily.

So to answer your question, yes, I feel that it would. If you don't drive it everyday, why not keep at at 110lsa?

But how are you able to run that 10.5-1 compression with the 268 Voodoo?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I went with 112 to help with vacuum and my power brakes, and because I wanted better idle quality, and not as peaky torque. It came out just as planned, because I drive this everyday.

What I mean by tight lash is that instead of .026 lash, I run .018, which per Harold is about as tight as I can go with those lobe profiles. He should know, he designed them!! What that does is give more duration, and makes it seem as if you have a little bigger cam, without losing too much bottom end. It just plain works. I would recommend it for you, again, since you have the compression and heads.

Thanks for the compliment. I am just giving the advice as to what works for me in my setup, and yours is pretty close, but better with more compression and head. Harold sold the idea to me, and he should know of anyone. I love the "dropped jaw" look I get from the camaro and mustang guys when my old 85 GMC shortbed just walks away from them. :D
Thank you for all your help and suggestions, looking like this is the cam I will go with.But like you mention in the above post I will keep it at the 110LS since it isn't daily driven.

Thanks guys!
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I got a chance to speak with UDHarold on the phone, and he highly recommended the Lunati #401A6Lun as well. Interesting person to talk with, kinda made my head spin with all the technical cam talk. But good stuff nonetheless, actually learned some interesting stuff which is always a plus. He explained that the .018"/.018" lash is recommended to kill some bottom end torque in a primarily street driven combo. If more is needed he said to open the lash up, which would move the power up top around as well but warned that traction may become an issue with a wide lash. This is of course in simple terms as he was explaining it to me, but I better understand it effects. The other point he recommended I could try is to swap on 1.6 ratio intake rockers for more power as well. I have heard of this through the years anyway and may finally give it a try if I can get some time on a dyno once the cam is in to see the effects.

Either way it was a pleasure to talk with him and learn a few more details on cams and also for his recommendation. I also want to thank wildman926 for his recommendation and real world results with this cam and pdq67 for the contact info for UDHarold. Thanks guys! I have found my solid cam!
 

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Hey big guy,
Glad to help out with it. When I spoke to "The Man" about cam choice, he had the same affect on me. And things turned out just like he said. I run a tight lash, .020 on that cam now, to help out with the traction issues down low. By running a tight lash, it moves the power band up, and my truck does not spin as bad, but when it hits 2800-3000 rpms, WATCH OUT!! When I first got it in there, I ran the recommended lash to help with break in, but it moved the torque down low. I did run an .018, but that is the limit, and I did not want to go there in the event that I off with my setting.

I would also recommend the EDM hole lifters. It drops your oil pressue a little, no big deal. Just use Shell Rotella 15-40 to bring it back up, and for the added protection. Be sure to also remove your inner springs during break in, and use GM EOS both on break in, and in the first oil change after. I had my inner springs removed for the first 50-100 miles, keeping the rpms down going to the store, to help out with breakin. You will be very happy with the results after all of this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Hey big guy,
Glad to help out with it. When I spoke to "The Man" about cam choice, he had the same affect on me. And things turned out just like he said. I run a tight lash, .020 on that cam now, to help out with the traction issues down low. By running a tight lash, it moves the power band up, and my truck does not spin as bad, but when it hits 2800-3000 rpms, WATCH OUT!! When I first got it in there, I ran the recommended lash to help with break in, but it moved the torque down low. I did run an .018, but that is the limit, and I did not want to go there in the event that I off with my setting.

I would also recommend the EDM hole lifters. It drops your oil pressue a little, no big deal. Just use Shell Rotella 15-40 to bring it back up, and for the added protection. Be sure to also remove your inner springs during break in, and use GM EOS both on break in, and in the first oil change after. I had my inner springs removed for the first 50-100 miles, keeping the rpms down going to the store, to help out with breakin. You will be very happy with the results after all of this.
I was amazed to learn that lash was that sensitive, but am glad I learned its effects. I plan to run the Rotella for those reasons and the added zinc levels. So the EDM lifters just allow more oil to get to the lifter face basically? You run the Lunati spec lifters or any solid lifter will do? I do plan to remove the inner spring as well to aid break in on the cam. I also put the 3000rpm pill in the 6AL to keep my foot out of it when breaking stuff in, did that with the motor and there was quite a few times I would have romped it if not. Insurance against stupidity ya know. Again I must say thank you for the real world info on this cam, now I can't wait to get her in there!
 

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Yes the EDM lifters allow oil on the face of the lifter. I did not use Lunati, can't remember whose they are!! LOL!! Just glad I could help you out. I would like to hear from you after you get her broke in.
 
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