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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I think that I screwed up the installation of the rear main seal on my new 350. Is there any special thing I have to do with it to make it leak free? Do I silicone it? At Auto Zone they sold 3 different ones. I just picked one and used it. I think it's leaking. What a pain in the you know what. How hard is it to remove the oil pan with the engine in my 69 Elky? Thanks.
 

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I always put a small dab of rtv on the ends of the rear main seal. Make sure its free of oil and very clean. The "V" shape of the rear main seal points towards the inside of the engine.

Dave
 

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One piece or 2 piece? If it's the one piece seal you shouldn't have any issues. If it's the 2-piece seal then Dave 427's advice is right on. My sealer of choice is Permatex Ultra Black.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Oh sorry. It's a 2 piece seal. I heard that it should be offset too. I mean to offset the seams so that it's not the same as the seam in the block. Hope you understand what I mean. No silicone on the backside where the seal touches the block? Thanks.
 

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I don't seal the block side but do put a nice dab of Ultra Black on each corner on the pan side.
 

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I was really worried with the two piece on my first engine build. I used RTV everywhere I could! Now I just use it on the edges.

I've seen alot of the seals need trimming. Make sure they do not stick to far above the block, but also do not cut them so they fit flsuh with the block I leave a little less then 1/16"
 

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If your replacing the seal in the block, you need to be sure to use the plastic tool that came in the package.
Put the plastic sleeve part in the block and then push/roll in the seal . If you don't, you will have a small strip of seal material
cut off of the back, and it will leak. :)
 

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What JPM said.... DO NOT just jam the seal down into the groove. Use the little plastic tool to introduce the seal to the metal as you slide the seal around the groove. DO NOT use sealer on the back of the seal; use a drop of motor oil on the ridge of the casting that the seal sits up on, or a thin smear of white lithium grease, to keep from scratching or tearing the seal.

Note also, that there's a definite "in" side and "out" side of the seal. If it's installed backwards, the little grooves in its surface where it meets the crank, will wick oil outwards instead of inwards.

Leave the ends of the seal their full length (DO NOT trim them) and offset them from the block/cap surfaces ¼" or so. Put a drop of silicone or gorilla snot on the ends ONLY; you don't want it to get on the surfaces of the seal that touch the block, cap, or crank.

There's oil pressure between the cap and the block on the driver's side. Smear a thin smear of RTV on the block surface, making sure to get a bit in the corner of the register groove. Make sure it goes all the way from the seal to the pan surface with no gaps, between the oil feed passage hole and the outside world, i.e. BEHIND the oil feed passage hole. Doesn't hurt to do that to both sides.
 
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