[FlameOut]

I need to patch the corners of my doors, and was wondering if the "22 gauge plain" sheetmetal they sell at home depot is ok to use. I'm not sure I'm even going to be able to patch it, but was going to attempt it. The part that concerns me is the actual door edge is bad, not just the door skin.

Here is a photo before I cut the rust out:


The backside:


http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2452111980032804792IsWpHW

 

[cromedss]

You are are making a mistake if you just patch the areas you can see. My doors looked similar to your (actually better). I decided to re-skin both doors and am glad I did. You will find rust all the way around the perimeter where the skin overlaps the frame. Also found several areas on the door frame that needed fixing. Don't be afraid to re-skin them yourself as it isn't that hard...just take your time.

 

[Lou Merrell]

My opinion (and what I would do if it was my car) is to replace the entire door with a brand new one for $330.

http://www.ss396.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=chevellecamino&Product_Code=RSH-66L

But ask around about the fitment of these new doors and if the bodylines line up good with fenders and quarters. Often times it cost more in bodywork to get the lines right. The 'catch 22' is that if you have the door repaired, your going to pay also unless you d.i.y.

 

[rubadub]

Heres some sheet metal sizes if it will help.

http://www.1969supersport.com/smthoughts.html

Rob

 

[Lou Merrell]

Thanks for that link Rob. I knew the decimals just not the guage conversions. I'll be needing it next week.

 

[Lou Merrell]

I also have the same question as in the op by Bill.
Is the steel at Home Depot good.

 

[cromedss]

Do you see the rust on the inner door frame where you removed corner section? The whole inner frame looks like that. How long do you think it will be after you have painted before you start seeing more rust pops? This is a case of pay me now or pay double later. Just hate to see you go this far and have problems afterwards.

 

[FlameOut]

So what would truck freight charges be on the entire door shell? $329 at Ground Up, or I can buy local at Luttyschevy for $360, with no freight but about $25 tax for total of around $385 each. $55 more for each door to buy local. I wonder if fright for 2 would be less then the $110 difference? Probably better off buying local, so I can at least inspect them prior to purchase.

I guess in the long run, I'd be better off with the entire door shell. With that shell, I just need to remove the guts from present door and insert into new shell?

Now all I need is for those 5 numbers I picked to match the ones pulled at the 7:00 lottery drawing :hurray:

 

[Beaux]

I guess in the long run, I'd be better off with the entire door shell. With that shell, I just need to remove the guts from present door and insert into new shell?

Now all I need is for those 5 numbers I picked to match the ones pulled at the 7:00 lottery drawing :hurray:

I agree ENTIRELY. Remove that extra variable of shipping, vendor being far away, etc. You can inspect, you can return easy enough, you can talk to someone in person. Nothing agains the vendors but for me - local is worth the extra money with items like this (not going to be much difference given shipping costs anyway)

And yes - just remove guts from old, install guts in new. One at a time and use the other old door for reference. Not too bad. Adjustment can be annoying but gotta do what ya gotta do. Shell, for me, is where I will go because I dont have the patience or experience to reskin my existing doors. I'll cough up money to avoid those troubles that will lead me to heavy drinking.

 

[vic2tric]

How good are the replacement doors? I bought a set of Goodmark doors for my 69 Chevy pickup, the didn't fit right, the metal was thinner to the point that if you pushed the door close with your hand it would dent the door. I recently spoke to another person who had the same problem. Are the Chevelle doors any better?

 

[andyo]

I also have the same question as in the op by Bill.
Is the steel at Home Depot good.

it is galvinized metal. just grind the edges before welding on it, $5.00 for a 12 x 24 piece. i am using it on my blazer and it is working very good.

 

[kev1971SS]

Bill,

If you look in the back of the Ground-Up Catalog, you can order in advance and they will deliver for free to one of the events in which they participate. I bought two door shells this year and picked them up at Carlisle. I plan on doing this with all the rest of the body panels that I need. It seems crazy to pay for the panel you need and then pay almost as much for shipping....

 

[BlueSS454]

Truck freight is going to be a minimum of $100. You can also check out www.goodmarkindustires.com and see where a local dealer is to you. There are more out there than you would think. I get my sheetmetal locally for the same prices the catalog companies offer it for and I can go pick it up.

 

[figbash]

it is galvinized metal. just grind the edges before welding on it, $5.00 for a 12 x 24 piece. i am using it on my blazer and it is working very good.

Do not weld galvanized steel, the zinc fumes can make you very sick. Hot dipped galvanizing also contains lead which is far worse for you than the zinc. It's not possible to get all the coating off by grinding the edges. There will always be some left behind for you to breathe if you weld it.

Tom

 

[Bronco3738]

Also 22 gauge is too thin for that type of repair IMHO.

 

[baddbob71]

22 guage will match the thickness of the door shell frame pretty well, the frame is thinner than the skin on most GM cars of this era. I would definately remove the skin and attempt patching that frame. If the patchwork and cleanup go well epoxy prime the frame then order a new skin. You wouldn't be out much giving this a try. Reskinned original doors are much better than repop doors IMO + you can tune the fit much easier before the skin is welded. After the new skin is on and the fit verified mix up a small amount of epoxy primer, tape the seam shut on the doorskin exterior, poor the epoxy in the door and allow it to soak into and fill the seam rotating the door untill all seams are treated. Then after all the paintwork is done treat the seams again with a coat of 3M rustfighter cavity wax and the door will last forever.

 

[67shovel]

I've got an extra 67 passenger door with a new skin on it sitting in my barn that I want to get rid off. $150.00 plus shipping

 

[MakMetalFab]

Nothing upsets me more then people giving wrong info or advice.:sad:

The frames are thicker then the skins not thinner.

Frames should be repaired with 18GA and skins with 20GA.

I will attach some pics of door repairs that I have done to help you out.

here are some chevelle door cornere pics

 

[MakMetalFab]

Here are a few of a GTX door I just did.

 

[MakMetalFab]