[Hawkfan]

I'm building a 454 from the ground up. CompCam .552 lift, new hyd lifters, roller rockers, new push rods, new Edelbrock heads.
I set the number 1 cylinder TDC and set the lash on the reccomended intake and exhaust valves. I turn the crank 360 deg. so piston 6 is TDC. Then I set the reccomended intake and exhaust valves.
Here's my cituation. With # 1 at TDC, intake roller rockers on 3 & 4 are extremely loose & exhaust rockers on 5 & 7 are loose. With 6 at TDC, intake rocker on 2 is loose and exhaust on 4 is loose.
Any suggestions? Comments?
Thanks in advance for any assistance any one can offer.

 

[cv67]

Never had good luck with that method unless it was a stock or near stock cam maybe Im missing somehting. Normally just do one rocker at a time the old method. Maybe someone can help you out hopefully.

 

[Hawkfan]

Maybe this method doesnt work with modified cams? Thanks Cuisinartvette!

 

[JB SS 396]

Hi Hawkfan

First off, did you prime the engine or lifters prior to adjusting the valves?
If not it is very easy to over preload the lifters. Just adjust until ya have no up and down movement of the pushrod.

The method of adjustment you are using is the factory spec intended for stock camshafts with very low duration and lift and should not be used for performance applications.

That said, there are a few methods to use: the Intake open, exhaust closed method and the one I prefer which is the GM solid lifter adjustment method.

Try this and just go to zero lash, then 1/2 turn more and you're good.

GM SOLID LIFTERS (1964-71)
Engine Not Running
These are initial adjustments usually required after assembling an engine or performing a valve job.

1. Set the engine to the No. 1 firing position (No. 1 TDC). This can be accomplished by removing the No. 1 spark plug and feeling for compression and the engine is slowly turned or by removing the valve cover and watching the valves for the No. 1 cylinder as the engine is turned. If the valves move while the timing notch approaches the 0 mark on the timing scale, then the engine crankshaft is 360 degrees away from No. 1 TDC. If the valves do not move while the notch approaches the 0 mark, then the No. 1 cylinder is at TDC.

1. Adjust the clearance between the valve stems and the rocker arms using a feeler gauge. Check the chart for the proper clearance. Adjust the following valves in the No. 1 firing position: Intake No. 2, 7, Exhaust No. 4, 8.

1. Turn the crankshaft 1 / 2 revolution clockwise. Adjust the following valves: Intake no. 1,8, Exhaust No. 3, 6.

1. Turn the crankshaft 1 / 2 revolution clockwise to the top of the No. 1 piston's exhaust stroke (this is TDC for No. 6 cylinder on V8 engines). Adjust the following valves in this position: Intake No. 3, 4, Exhaust No. 5, 7.

Turn the crankshaft 1 / 2 revolution clockwise.Adjust the following valves: Intake No. 5, 6, Exhaust No. 1, 2.

Jason
Long time GM mechanic and gearhead.
Best of luck to ya.

 

[JB SS 396]

Sorry, when I copied and pasted it the steps all came out with #1 in front but you can follow it.

 

[Hawkfan]

Jason,
I soaked the hyd lifters in oil for several days.

So I can use the sequence/process you suggest that is for solid lifters on hyd lifters?

 

[JB SS 396]

Yes you can use this method as I have. It works very well.
If your balancer does not have marks every 90* like many aftermarkets do then just make one mark 180* opposite the TDC timing mark grove on your balance with white out or something bright that you can see well so that you'll know when you've turned the engine 1/2 turn.

 

[Hawkfan]

Much appreciated, Jason!

 

[JB SS 396]

You are very welcome. Let us know how it turns out.

 

[jmartorana]

That is the way (GM mechanical lifter method) I have always done and have never had any issue regardless of how big a hydraulic cam.

 

[bigmachd]

Yes,what they said, GM method, my sheet is divided into pass bank and driver bank, laminated, lean them against each side of carb and they're rite there, no fumbling around or getting lost.Don't remember where I coppied these from. Reason this works is because each one you set is on the bottom,(farthest away from the lobe) of the base circle.
That's the way I understand it anyway.

 

[cv67]

Maybe this method doesnt work with modified cams? Thanks Cuisinartvette!

It might I could never get it right.
There are a couple good cam grinders here they will help out.

 

[Wolfplace]

Brian
There are a number of ways to get this done & everyone has their favorite but the two that stand the test of time & are very simple for anyone any time are below

With hyd lifters or even solids for initial adjustment there are two very simple ways to adjust the valves that have been recommended by damn near every cam grinder in existence for as long as I can remember

You don't need a chart, don't need marks except TDC,
You don't need to remember anything except where you are if you get interrupted, which valve is which and the firing order

First
Put the engine on #1 compression & adjust the intake & exhaust rockers
In your case (hyd) you need to develop a feel for zero lash & then add whatever preload you require
Rotate 90° (1/4 turn) & adjust #8 (or the next cylinder in your firing order) intake & exhaust
90° more to the next cylinder right down the firing order

Second
EO/IC
When the exhaust valve on the cylinder you are working with begins to open adjust the intake valve
When the intake valve opens all the way & is closing adjust the exhaust

I always use the second method for final adjusting of solid lifters but I use the first for initial adjustment when assembling & they are always very close.
For hyd the first is all you need to do.

Simple, bulletproof, dummy proof,,, did I mention about impossible to screw up
All you need to know is which valve is which & in the case of hyd lifters develop a feel for zero lash

Or if you like hot oil you can always finish up by adjusting them running but I have not done this in 40 years,,,
To me adjusting running is just insane but there are people that do it & to each his own I guess

Do not use the "GM" method you referenced with performance cams.

 

[jmartorana]

Wolfie

Are you saying the GM method for mechanical should not be used to set the lash for a HR?

 

[bracketchev1221]

I agree, I do one cylinder at a time with the EO/IC. This works on ANY size cam or 4 stroke engine. My friend tried some other cockeyed process, maybe the GM one on his solid roller race engine and bent a lot of stuff.

 

[JB SS 396]

Wolfie

Are you saying the GM method for mechanical should not be used to set the lash for a HR?

The GM mechanical method I listed above will work great. It puts all the lifters on the cam base circle exactly opposite of the lobe which can be verified with the intake off.

The stock GM "Hydrolic lifter" method that has only 2 steps (TDC #1 adj half then TDC #6 the rest) WILL NOT WORK FOR PERFORMANCE CAMS, ESPECIALLY SOLID LIFTERS!

That said, you can't go wrong with the methods listed by WOLFPLACE MIKE which are time honored engine builder methods!

 

[Wolfplace]

Wolfie

Are you saying the GM method for mechanical should not be used to set the lash for a HR?

No I referenced the first one in the first post not the second one
I do not use either but the second one is basically just another way to get to the base circle

I just do not like a bunch of crap I have to remember or instructions that end up in the bottom of a pile someplace when there are simpler no brainer methods for us okie builders that have to do this almost daily & have CRS

 

[jmartorana]

Thanks for the clarification guys, That was what I thought. Like I said I have been doing the GM Mechanical deal for years.

Just makin sure!

 

[Hawkfan]

Mike, Jason and all the others who weighed in and shared their advice, Thank You Very Much! I used Mike's approach and it worked perfect! I would have never have thought of setting the lash based on the firing order. Its simple and logical.