[7521]

Before everybody goes off on me, my car is no trailer queen. Sometimes it is just easier to give it a break when going to a show or cruise that is more than 3 or 4 hours away. Tow it with a motorhome and it can be a great weekend. Now down to it, anyone have photos of the best method of secureing a 70 to an open trailer? Whats best, cinch the frame down or secure the wheels and tires? Laws vary from state to state, what is acceptable in all 50?

 

[ed3196499]

I tow my 70 on an open trailer using four heavy duty ratchet straps from www.awdirect.com I run one around the front part of the lower control arms in the front and and one on each side of the rear axle tubes carefull not to pinch a brake line. I dont criss cross straps and I use old straps or fire hose to prevent chaffing. I just towed from NY to New Orleans over 1200 miles and didnt have one problem

 

[BillsCamino]

I tow my 70 on an open trailer using four heavy duty ratchet straps...run one around the front part of the lower control arms in the front and and one on each side of the rear axle tubes carefull not to pinch a brake line. I dont criss cross straps

Same here...regardless of year/model car...open or enclosed trailers.
Got Four ratchet straps with slings...one on each front lower control arm and two around the axle tubes. I don't criss cross the rears either.
Probably towed Chevelles about a million miles this way...including the '67 to and from AL this weekend.

 

[442 Harv]

I use the holes in the frame to tie mine down. Back are near the back, and the fronr by the front door. The front I cross, as it works better.

 

[grandsport]

I guess it was dumb luck my daughter and I got our car home in one piece after a 6 hour trip.:yes:

 

[DONTWANT2]

I always strap to the lower A frames on the front and over axle on the rear. If you go to the frame your just compressing the front and rear springs and it seems that its more secure to use axles-Lower a frames. Always use 4 staps as well.

 

[yost44]

open or closed it does not matter....I would suggest strapping to the rearend/front lower control arms, reason I say this is because if you strap to the frame and dont get it down tight enough there is a chance that the car can "bouce" from the suspensions being below the securing point which in turn could cause the strap to come loose or worse come off. Its the way I have always done it, which doesnt make it right but has always made sense in my head

 

[Chevelle_Nut]

Just curious, why not criss-cross the rear straps?

I use Mac's Straps around the front conrol arms and rear axle tubes also.

 

[crockett70SS]

Use the four straps and the rearend/front lower control arms. Make sure to use something to protect the strap from any sharpe edges and don't pinch the brake lines. I have "always" crossed my straps. Have done it that way for years. I feel more secure that way, especially when on the road for hours at a time. When ever you stop for something (gas, food, bathroom) check your trailer and the straps. Make this a habit and it will let your drive be less worrisome. Good luck.

 

[JJ'65]

In air transport, chains would be required for a vehicle. Straps will stretch. Straps on the frame or body will go slack as the suspension gets compressed by variations in the roadway surface (or a wreck). May not make a difference if you're on smooth pavement and never have any surprises. The load on a line when suddenly applied (shock) can be considerably more than steady state tension. If you only can apply four restraints (chains, straps, ropes, etc.) then they would be applied symmetrically and at 45* to the three axes (longitudinal, lateral, vertical)

 

[Rich-L79]

Before everybody goes off on me, my car is no trailer queen.

Why would ANYONE have to apologize or be embarrased if their car IS a trailer queen?

Four straps, attached to lower control arms at the front and the rear axle in the back, cross the straps. It's always good to have straps pulling against one another so the car has nowhere to move and thus make a strap or two go slack at any time.

 

[Dean]

Been hauling a lot of old cars and junk lately and I learned one thing I hadn't thought about before.

Straps connected to the frame or body will loosen enough when the vehicle comes down to cause the straps to come unhooked.

On my Chevelle, I use axle straps around the rear axle and the front lower control arms.

On scrap vehicles, we've been throwing a couple of straps over the top of the vehicle hood and trunk but when we stop a few places along the way and throw a few hundred pounds of junk inside the car, it drops down causing the straps to come loose.

 

[rocks66ss]

Why would ANYONE have to apologize or be embarrased if their car IS a trailer queen?

Four straps, attached to lower control arms at the front and the rear axle in the back, cross the straps. It's always good to have straps pulling against one another so the car has nowhere to move and thus make a strap or two go slack at any time.

Good advice from Rich here.

There is a reason you should cross your straps, in the event the trailer shifts hard, the straps opposing each other keep your car secured in the middle of the trailer, basically keeps your car from being able to shift/slide sideways.



Rocky

 

[1969ProStreet]

Good advice from Rich here.

There is a reason you should cross your straps, in the event the trailer shifts hard, the straps opposing each other keep your car secured in the middle of the trailer, basically keeps your car from being able to shift/slide sideways.



Rocky

Not only is crossing the straps a good idea......in some states crossing the straps/chains is required by law. If your car is visible on an open trailer without the straps being crossed you could find yourself receiving a citation.

David F.

 

[Chevelle_Nut]

I tried towing without crisscrossing the rear and found the rear wheels sliding to one side or the other, haven't had that problem crossing the straps.

 

[Philip]

I have been towing cars on open trailers for 20 years using the frame tie down method. On smooth roads, rough roads, dirt roads and at speeds up to 80 mph when the conditions and laws permitted it. I have not had one come loose or slide around when the suspension is pulled down. The one time I tied my 64 Malibu using the control arms, the sharp edge cut the strap.

Since the Nova will be trailered to the track frequently I will add tie downs to the frame for the snap hook to attach eliminating the possibility of one ever coming off.

Since these photos were taken the trailer has had D rings installed in the bed and straps with snap hooks were purchased.

 

[Randy 67EC]

I tie my car down by the frame, but I use the body bushing holes behind the front wheels on front and the holes in front of the rear wheels for the back. This way the straps are going almost straight forward and back, probably at a 20 degree angle. Never loosen up when the suspension compresses. I don't cross tie either, but my trailer has a 2" high rail on each side and the car just fits between them (tires do) so it won't slide sideways. If it does, I'm already in a whole lotta trouble. :yes: Later I plan to add better tiedown points so I can cross strap.

 

[Philip]

Randy your tie down procedure is the reason I had the D rings welded in. The short strap does a much better job. There are 3 down each side, so if I feel the need a car can be tied in 6 places

I do not like the double bounce. That is the bouncing of the car on the trailer and the trailer suspension working too. With the suspension on the car pulled down the trailer absorbs the bumps and doesn't move the truck as much.

But this discussion can rage on forever. As individuals we choose the method that is right for us. Anyone looking to this thread for techniques will need to decide what they feel is best for them.

 

[Big White]

It's been a number of years since I trailered anything but when I had my trailer custom built, the fabricator made up a pair of metal wheel chocks for the front wheels. Each chock had a large diameter bolt welded to the base. The bolts coincided with holes drilled in the deck.

My two show cars had different wheel bases and the chocks could be bolted into the appropriate hole for the car I was trailering. There were two advantages to using the wheel chocks along with the tie-down straps:

1. The chocks automatically positioned each of the cars at the correct location for proper balance and tongue weight.
2. While I'm sure the tie-down straps were more than adequate, the chocks gave me peace of mind knowing that if I ever had to make a panic stop, the vehicle on the trailer wasn't going to try to join us in the tow vehicle.

I'd highly recommend using them for anyone who trailers.

 

[Philip]

Rich that is an excellent suggestion.