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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I know y'all get these questions a lot, but I was unable to find my answer searching the posts. I am starting on a rebuild of a sbc. It will be a 9.5:1 383. I'll be using a 600 cfm carburetor and Performer Air Gap intake. I have a 700R4 with a 3.08 rear gear, and have not decided on whether or not to use a stall. I am hoping for around 375 hp, with the power curve in the lower rpms. Which cam would you all recommend? I'm looking for a street build...but can't say I won't race my co-worker. He has a ford...can't let him win.
 

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That 700R4 with a 3.08 rear gear would only be good for racing on a Oval track as far as I know
and cruizin with it in 4th the low RPMs would make the engine lug-ish on the hwy .

My chose of a auto trans would be a TH2004R with a 3.73 rear gear
or a 4L80E manual shift with a 3.55 / 3.73 rear gear .

A Quadra jet carb would be my chose since the car is only going to be used for racing at the track once in a blue moon/ford
great way to save $$ on gas when cruizin.

As far as the cam goes someone else on here can help with that
or you could ask someone from Vortecpro Perf "Mark Jones"
and or someone on a Tech Help desk with another engine builder company .
 

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You say power curve in lower rpm's?
how low you talking?
375hp..not even 1HP per cube.. too easy
Install any of the 268 cams and there you go
but that will still be too big to make such low HP. maybe i have no idea what head you will run.

With the 3.08 gears and .75 overdrive you will have a final of 2.31
I have ran 2.29 gears (9") in an old nova and a 350" engine with th350
That was a load of fun..95 mph in 1st gear and 147mph in second pulling a trailer..getting MPG with 2.29 gears was a chore .. timing curve had to all be in by 1400rpm...when i had it all in by 2400 it got 8mpg..when i made it right it got 18mpg same as my 3.08 gears

As far as stall converter..my first 388" was a 214-224 camshaft and the converter stalled to 1200 rpm when it was a 350" engine and the 388 it stalled to 2200 rpm..same converter and trans and rear gear...
so a higher stall converter i say no run the stocker.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I've been researching the 185cc profiler heads. The flow numbers are comparable to AFR at 60% the price.
 

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You will be fine with the 3.08 rear gears as long as you don't go to big on the cam. I would stay below 220 @ .050". FWIW I run a 350 in my driver chevelle with a 700R4 and 3.08 gears. I'm running an Isky Mega 264 which is 214 @ .050" on 108 LSA. This cam pulls really hard in the midrange and it will put down 20 mpg on the freeway with a well tuned qjet. If you have money for a hydraulic roller, the GM Hot cam at 218/228 @ .050 and some 1.6 rockers should do well with those Profiler heads.
 

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How do you figure that compression without the heads yet? Are you going cast or alluminum? Have you had the block machined and is it zero decked? pistons, flat tops? I would maybe look into a bigger carb. the Eddy air gap is a great intake, I run it on my 383. why not shoot for higher HP and Torque numbers? I think you would be leaving alot on the table for a stroker.
I would reccomend a hyd roller cam; I'm running a voodoo hyd roller, 1.6 rockers, AFR 195cc/75cc 670 holley, and 28-3000 stall.Im at 9.7:1 But thats with a th350 and 12bolt with 370s, Im not too familiar with overdrives and performance.
It is a street car, but not my daily driver.
The cam and converter go hand and hand, look at the rpm ranges when selecting, and whatever cam you go with, remember to check with the manufactuer of the heads you go with and make sure the spring pressure is something your cam can handle. If your gonna build a street car... BUILD A STREET CAR..
just my .02... Good luck with the build!
 

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I finished my 383 last winter and am very happy with the result. I have a 200-4R a 4.11 rear gear, AFR 195 heads and Voodoo hydraulic roller cam. It sounds good, comes out of the hole hard but runs about 2200 RPM at 65 MPH. I had one of the GM "Hot Cams" but it didn't seem to do much for the engine. Called Mike Lewis and he set me up with the rotating assembly, cam and heads. Great combination and good advice from someone who knows about engines. You might give him a call for some guidance.
 

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http://www.camquest.com/

This is an interesting exercise. It’s a Comp Cams program that will allow you to play with the results a little.

My recommendation is to definitely read others experience with their application, but keep in mind yours is yours alone. There are things you will do or want that make it unique.

CALL a cam manufacturer and talk to their tech folks. You'll need to decide on a few things and the more info you have, the better their recommendation. There will be some things you probably haven’t quite worked out yet, and this is a good place to force those decisions.

Rely on the experts. I have always prefered Comp. They have years of competitive experience that backs up their profiles. No matter how bizarre you go, they always seem to have a similar situation to relate to.
 

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It's hard to get consistent and good advice from the cam manufacturer tech lines. I remember never getting the same recommendation from the same cam manufacturer if I asked more than once. The up cost of talking to a cam expert (like Chris Straub) is about $100-150, but getting the right cam the 1st time is priceless.

You didn't mention the heads you're using, but there are a lot of similar 383 builds you could copy. Also, the camquest program is pretty cool to play with, but I'm skeptical about their power estimates (seem way high).

Before you finalize the cam pick, you should make sure you're happy with the gearing/tire size. It seems like you could use a lot more rear gear (3.55-3.73) with the overdrive trans. For best results, you should consider doing a torque converter with the cam change to optimize the combo. You didn't mention your rear tire size, but a 275 60 15 would probably be a good choice.
 

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Called Mike Lewis and he set me up with the rotating assembly, cam and heads. Great combination and good advice from someone who knows about engines. You might give him a call for some guidance.[/QUOTE]



X2
 

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Do yourself a huge favor and go to the Profiler 195cc heads, the 383 will love them!

Make sure you get a Performer RPM air gap, there again the 383 will like the air flow.

With a cam in the 218-224 duration at .050 will be a good and very streetable cam and should be decent in the mileage department.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Went with AFR 180CC Street Heads, Performer AirGap Intake and a Comp Cams 270HR. We had to change the secondary jets, springs and needles in the Edelbrock 1406, but finally got a good air / fuel mix throughout the rpm range. Mechanical advance was set at 32 degrees. Owens Racing in Pearland, TX, threw in a basic Dyno tune with the break-in. I asked that the dyno only go to 5100 rpm's because that is the WOT shift point in my Trans. 420HP at 5100 and still climbing. Peak TQ was 463 lbs at 4300. The report shows from 3600 - 5100. TQ never drops below 433 lbs. I am really happy with the results.
 

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I know y'all get these questions a lot, but I was unable to find my answer searching the posts. I am starting on a rebuild of a sbc. It will be a 9.5:1 383. I'll be using a 600 cfm carburetor and Performer Air Gap intake. I have a 700R4 with a 3.08 rear gear, and have not decided on whether or not to use a stall. I am hoping for around 375 hp, with the power curve in the lower rpms. Which cam would you all recommend? I'm looking for a street build...but can't say I won't race my co-worker. He has a ford...can't let him win.
Get a hold of Chris Straub screen name cstraub, let him spec a cam for you. No need to guess, get the exact can and performance you're after the first time.
 

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This is an update, his motor is finished, he posted a parts list and actual dyno results.

It just goes to show that conservative parts well chosen will produce good power. Thanks for posting the results.

Steve R
 
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