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More compression is more hp and torque.
Right ? How are guys running 11.3 on pump gas?
I've heard of it
I ran 13:1 on 91 pump gas. Didn't build it to do that. Engine had a big nitrous cam in it and cranked 195-205 on a compression test so I started running pump gas in it on the street.
 

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I ran 13:1 on 91 pump gas. Didn't build it to do that. Engine had a big nitrous cam in it and cranked 195-205 on a compression test so I started running pump gas in it on the street.
I think a lot is contributed to AFR and the cam used. I comp out from 175-180 and timing will affect how it runs before it will ping or knock. Hell I remember my moms 1979 Impala with a 305ci 120hp engine would ping its brains out and that had crap for compression.
 

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Discussion Starter · #83 ·
Yep i had an 83 c-30 dually that pinged all the time . Only time it didn't is if I ran sunnico 94 in it . Was an "M" block
 

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Discussion Starter · #84 ·
X
 

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Discussion Starter · #85 ·
I ran 13:1 on 91 pump gas. Didn't build it to do that. Engine had a big nitrous cam in it and cranked 195-205 on a compression test so I started running pump gas in it on the street.
Let's say I set out to build a 13 to 1 pump gas motor .
What primary characteristics of the build would allow for that?
 

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Let's say I set out to build a 13 to 1 pump gas motor .
What primary characteristics of the build would allow for that?
I would not suggest doing that. My engine was built for nitrous so the N/A cylinder pressure was lower than it should have been which allowed me to run pump gas. The combination of a 268 @ 0.050" cam with 108 ICL and loose ring gaps for a 400 shot gave me lower cylinder pressure even though the compression was over 13:1. The pistons were Ross #91461 which had a 15.2cc dome. You can see how big the dome was in the picture below.

Hood Motor vehicle Bumper Gas Rim
 

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Discussion Starter · #87 ·
Here they are .
Ordered them on this last Tuesday.
Probably get a pushrod length tonight and then see how fast I can get pushrods or maybe ill get lucky and the 7.8 ish ones that I currently have will work
 

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Here they are .
Ordered them on this last Tuesday.
Probably get a pushrod length tonight and then see how fast I can get pushrods or maybe ill get lucky and the 7.8 ish ones that I currently have will work
Have a link where you got them from, they look pretty nice. I might need to get a set and work some magic on them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #89 ·
Have a link where you got them from, they look pretty nice. I might need to get a set and work some magic on them.
You probably won't want them because they're SW . Lol
No one on here likes them .
Whatever man them are NICE HEADS .
Especially for under 900 $

here they are . I just got back from the machine shop. Vacuum tested 👍


 

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Discussion Starter · #91 ·
I've got this cam sitting right here because I bought it for the 385 build but then changed my mind and went solid roller.
Couldn't I put this cam in the 350 in my truck? Why not right ??

 

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Why not put the cam and heads in the truck? Pretty surprised at your choice after all the questions. You took in a bunch of feedback and went the other way. I think the combo will still run strong, but a better head would've been stronger. Whether or not it would be $2000 stronger is pretty subjective. $900 is a pretty low price for what it looks like you got.
 
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Discussion Starter · #93 ·
Why not put the cam and heads in the truck? Pretty surprised at your choice after all the questions. You took in a bunch of feedback and went the other way. I think the combo will still run strong, but a better head would've been stronger. Whether or not it would be $2000 stronger is pretty subjective. $900 is a pretty low price for what it looks like you got.
Wait ...I went the other way on which feedback?
Do you mean where guys were suggesting i use the 186 heads i had off to the side ?
I absolutely would have used those heads but I couldn't wait over 2 weeks for my machine shop guy to get them done because its my work truck so I ordeed the only new heads available that I could get real quick .

Regarding the question on the cam :
I'm pondering on whether to leave the stock cam thats in the mid 70's 350 or put this clay Smith roler in there that's just sitting on the shelf .
The only question was I wasn't sure if that would entail anything other than simply using a cam button on this old block . I do have a new cam button sitting here as well .

Hey man listen close to what anybody sais on here lol. Theres probably 5 to 600 yeaes of combined experience in the 12 or 15 guys on here that I lend a strong ear too . Lol
Trust me I listen.

Do you think there would be any problems or issues that would arise by my putting this cam in ?
 

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Why not put the cam and heads in the truck? Pretty surprised at your choice after all the questions. You took in a bunch of feedback and went the other way. I think the combo will still run strong, but a better head would've been stronger. Whether or not it would be $2000 stronger is pretty subjective. $900 is a pretty low price for what it looks like you got.
If you are thinking to put that in a tow truck. I would just find someone who could use it and sell it. If not, maybe. I think its to big for a tow truck. You could make it work. Just try and save yourself some money.
 

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Discussion Starter · #95 ·
I think a lot is contributed to AFR and the cam used. I comp out from 175-180 and timing will affect how it runs before it will ping or knock. Hell I remember my moms 1979 Impala with a 305ci 120hp engine would ping its brains out and that had crap for compression.
Hey Bill I've got these heads here but they sent nothing along with them for torque specs .
I called and called and called. No answer so then I emailed them and all they said was

"65 ft/lbs and you torque them in 3 equal increments"

What sequence should I use ?
How many pounds per increment ?
We're ready to put these heads on but I don't want to foul this up
 

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Hey Bill I've got these heads here but they sent nothing along with them for torque specs .
I called and called and called. No answer so then I emailed them and all they said was

"65 ft/lbs and you torque them in 3 equal increments"

What sequence should I use ?
How many pounds per increment ?
We're ready to put these heads on but I don't want to foul this up
Al, use the standard chevy bolts pattern for the heads. Same for the intake. Torque 40, 55 and 65. I usually do the final twice just to be sure. You will need to double check the intake torque which is usually 25 to 30 #'s in cast. Performer intake is 30lbs but they don't specify steel or aluminum heads.
 

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Discussion Starter · #97 ·
10 4 on the head bolts captain lol
On the intake Id better dig deeper .
Iron intake and aluminum head
 

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Discussion Starter · #98 ·
Its lookin like 25 on the intake is all goodnuff
No matter what it is .
I guess.
Iron intake on aluminum heads
 

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Have a link where you got them from, they look pretty nice. I might need to get a set and work some magic on them.
You can buy the same bare casting all over Ebay, Fakebook, and Craig's List....a bunch of different companies use it and just put their own name on it. Even AFR, it's their new "Enforcer" as-cast offering.
Imported casting, but good quality. Once you learn how to spot it's casting features, it is easy to tell apart from the bad imported heads.

Can be found in both straight plug and angle plug versions.
It is basically a clone of the Dart Pro-1 Platinum 200cc head.

Here is currect best price on Ebay, Straight plug. $190/ea
Deepmotor SBC Small Block Chevy 350 Cylinder Head Bare Straight Plug Aluminum | eBay

Angle plug will cost you another $35, $225/ea.
The angle plug version has both original and Vortec intake bolt patterns on it.
FOR CHEVY SMALL BLOCK 350 SBC 200CC 68CC ALUMINUM BARE ANGLE PLUG CYLINDER HEAD | eBay

A decent place to start for guys who do their own head porting, it can be made to nearly rival some of the best in standard valvetrain location 23°.
 

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I bought these for my wife’s 71 Camaro SS on sale. I figure for $313 each delivered why not. Well they looked great and yes they are Dart heads. Unfortunately I lost the cam at fire up and had to take the engine down. Going with a roller cam so I had to change the spring. Troubleshooting the cam issue I did a compression test and they were all at 160 psi except for the cylinder that was down because of the cam lobe.Take a look at the reviews. For the price you will be hard pressed to find a better head imo
So my machinist had to change the springs for my new roller cam and he said that these heads aren't bad at all and that he likes Dart stuff. So if anyone is looking for a good flowing head (better then double humpers) with only 72cc chambers these are a decent head. I got these for $313 each which is a bargain price but even the current price of $353 is still very reasonable. Just thought you guys would like to know.
 
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