[Rick Loncosky]

Keane,I have 2 400 sb's awaiting rebuild and they both have the rods and caps stamped. They are both standard bore. Rick.

 

[Keane]

Whew!!

I was worried about not being able to bore this one. Thanks Rick.

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Keane
1970 Canadian Chevelle Malibu (undergoing partial resto)
1977 Canadian Chevelle Malibu Classic
1970 Canadian GMC Jimmy Daily Driver

 

[DZAUTO]

I don't know how many SBs I have seen/disassembled for over 35yrs, but this seems to almost be random. If you are going to do a total rebuild which will include balancing, it will not matter if they are numbered. When everything is finish machined/balanced, you are starting from scratch.

While we are on the subject of rebuilding a SB400, I would really encourage you to replace the stock shorter 400 rods with a set of stock 350 rods which are longer. The extra length will help build a little extra power in the upper rpm range. Pistons for SB400s with the longer 5.7 rods are now just a tiny bit higher than regular 400 pistons. Depending on what you get (I really prefer the Federal-Mogul hypereutectic), you're probably looking at $10-40 more. everything else will be the same price as a regular 400.

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Tom Parsons

 

[Keane]

Thanks DZ.

I wasn't going to re-use the rods anyways, just wondering if this was a sign as to the engines history. But since we are on the topic, when you get a balance job done, do you take all the rods in with you, or just one rod/one piston.

I already have my 5.7 rods, thanks to some of your previous posts on this site. I have researched this topic very thouroughly over the past 6 months.

I will be using forged pistons because I am going to use a big shot plate under the carb

If I have any more questions regarding the 400sb, I will be asking you directly, cause you seem to be a cashpot of info for these engines.

Keane.

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Keane
1970 Canadian Chevelle Malibu (undergoing partial resto)
1977 Canadian Chevelle Malibu Classic
1970 Canadian GMC Jimmy Daily Driver

 

[tom3]

Keane; Local shop here wants rods, pistons & pins (off rods), crank, damper, flywheel, clutch cover (pp), one ring set, one rod bearing assy. Crank should be machined before balancing of course. Today's balancing is pretty precise stuff. (Hope I didn't forget something.)

 

[DZAUTO]

That's all you need, Keane. What they will do is weigh and grind metal from the rods so they all weigh the same---on each end.

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Tom Parsons

 

[Bret]

Most small blocks I,ve opened havent been stamped. You can look at the back of the rod bearings to see if the bearings are under sized. If they are you will usually see markings such as .001 or .010 if the bearings are under sized. Most factory bearings dont have these type markings.
I,ts very possible that someone might have done a crank kit at one time, remember these eng. are over 20 years old, you would expect them to have been apart at sometime. By the way the longer rod is the way to go. It also takes stress off the sides of cyl walls, pushing piston up instead of trying to push it through the side of the block.

 

[Keane]

Thanks again everyone.

I have kept the bearings so that my machinist can look for signs that the crank is out of round and all that jazz. The bearings look VERY burnt up, and stank real bad when I took the rod caps off (so did the main caps for that matter). Either the oil wasn't changed in the past decade, or there was insignificant oil available at some time in the engines life.

I will look again for the oversize stampings on the bearings tonight.

Thanks again.

Keane

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Keane
1970 Canadian Chevelle Malibu (undergoing partial resto)
1977 Canadian Chevelle Malibu Classic
1970 Canadian GMC Jimmy Daily Driver