Team Chevelle banner

21 - 40 of 43 Posts

Registered
Joined
291 Posts
Discussion Starter #22
Soooo, What he did was wrong at the sail panel seem? He sad he wants to make it right and he bought new replacement panels, floors, braces, cowl assembly, rear floor section. He was over yesterday and we put the right side cowl section together, torque box and inner kick panel section he does know how to weld good, used a mig welder with gas.

Before I got the chevelle back He also put a coating of bondo where the rear part of the door meets the front part of quarter panel. He said he had to do that to get the new doors to fit good, good lines. Should I tell him I want to strip down that section, why the F does he need to put filler on the quarter where it meets the door, there should be enough adjustment at doors to allow for a nice gap. I'm still confused about the sail section of quarter pane where he welded in and added filler. what should I do about that. strip it down too.

He keeps stressing that it won't crack. I don't feel comfortable about the weld and bondo stuff. I don't get why he would need to use bondo.
What's the bottom line?

Sail panel weld with weld and bondo?

Front of rear quarter where it meets rear edge of door bondo?
I need more info

Thanks for your help guys.
 

Registered
Joined
291 Posts
Discussion Starter #23
Plus I found out that when he cut out the old quarter panel at roof, he cut it out before the factory joint, now there are two seems. Is that ok?
 

Registered
Joined
191 Posts
To me, it sounds like you already don鈥檛 trust this guy, so why continue using him?
 

Registered
Joined
8,351 Posts
Plus I found out that when he cut out the old quarter panel at roof, he cut it out before the factory joint, now there are two seems. Is that ok?
Wow, this just keeps getting better and better doesn't it?
 

Registered
Joined
7,659 Posts
Do you know any other body guys? If so, have them look at it, pay them for their assessment even if they aren't commissioned to repair the repairs.
 

Registered
Joined
970 Posts
Soooo, What he did was wrong at the sail panel seem? He sad he wants to make it right and he bought new replacement panels, floors, braces, cowl assembly, rear floor section. He was over yesterday and we put the right side cowl section together, torque box and inner kick panel section he does know how to weld good, used a mig welder with gas.

Before I got the chevelle back He also put a coating of bondo where the rear part of the door meets the front part of quarter panel. He said he had to do that to get the new doors to fit good, good lines. Should I tell him I want to strip down that section, why the F does he need to put filler on the quarter where it meets the door, there should be enough adjustment at doors to allow for a nice gap. I'm still confused about the sail section of quarter pane where he welded in and added filler. what should I do about that. strip it down too.

He keeps stressing that it won't crack. I don't feel comfortable about the weld and bondo stuff. I don't get why he would need to use bondo.
What's the bottom line?

Sail panel weld with weld and bondo?

Front of rear quarter where it meets rear edge of door bondo?
I need more info

Thanks for your help guys.
Using bondo to make the gaps look good is an old backyard mechanic strategy.
The pros work with metal/welding/forming. Aftermarket panels are sometimes that bad.
Especially if someone put on a full aftermarket quarter including the jam.
They're just not as good as factory from what I hear. That's why we have pros that put these things on. Trying to fit one is bad enough, trying to fit two together to create factory gaps is a skilled art.
 

Registered
Joined
4,397 Posts
Plus I found out that when he cut out the old quarter panel at roof, he cut it out before the factory joint, now there are two seems. Is that ok?
It's called a collision cut and a poor way to install a quarter unless you want just to build a beater and do a cave and pave job. Your bodyman is a hack and would be fired by 9 am if he worked for me. If he showed me his portfolio I would not even hire him.
 

Registered
Joined
291 Posts
Discussion Starter #31
Thanks guys for all your input. I just don't get why he didn't remove the rear quarters at the factory seem and go from there. I am just going to work with him on my chevelle. Its in my garage at home. I am going to make sure it is done right. I am doing all the prep work. What I say goes, no hack short cuts. I stressed that to him.
 

Premium Member
1967 Chevy Chevelle
Joined
1,064 Posts
19 grand and your helping? He鈥檚 laughing at you.
 

Registered
Joined
8,351 Posts
How exactly did this conversation go? You paid him 19k and you told him you didn鈥檛 like the work so he says he will help you out by helping you out? I think I would Be in court already. Was there a written contract? I鈥檓 just trying to wrap my head around this.

I feel bad that you got screwed and he didn鈥檛 even spit on it.
 

Registered
Joined
291 Posts
Discussion Starter #36
What do I do about the roof area? Just leave it? It does look smooth and nice and he used the metal to metal product to go over the welds.

If I don't have him help me it will take much longer to get done. I am going to use him to my advantage to get all the panels installed and welded right. If I don't do it that way then I am stuck doing that work alone. I can't trust anybody these days. I know now he is an f-ing amature and I need to let that part go for NOW.
I van take the time to clean eveyrthing the way I want it. When everything is done and completed then I can tell him that I hope he doesn't do this to other customers and he is a big f-ing hack.
 

Premium Member
1968 Chevelle SS396, Turbo 400, ash gold, black interior
Joined
7 Posts
If I can throw in my AMATEUR 2 cents worth: it sounds to me like your problem is that you have already given him the money but have to re-do parts of the project because he skipped certain areas. And he is willing to help you finish the job to your satisfaction. And he has already bought the replacement parts. I think you are doing the right thing by supervising closely. He seems to have the skills, just is willing to skip parts of the job. Also, there seems to be MULTIPLE ways to finish these cars, some good and some not so good. But after watching TV (laugh now) for many years, I have to believe that Fantom Works, Bitchin' Rides, Overhaulin' and multiple other guys who win TROPHYS for their cars after applying a SKIM coat of Bondo on their cars can't be all wrong. They all have one thing in common: make the metal as perfect as reasonably possible and then use as little Bondo as necessary.

And once again: I have NO body work experience. I can't weld. I have used Bondo only once. So I can't tell you exactly how much Bondo is best. But, if those nationally prominent shops on TV have a reputation to uphold and they say that a little is okay, then I will be on their side.

Meanwhile, good luck on your car. I'm betting that you will work on it until it looks great. And then you can tell everyone, YOU did it. It will be YOUR baby.
 

Registered
Joined
4 Posts
Hi Everyone, question about body work. I am working with my body guy restoring my 72 chevelle. Should I sand the metal down to bare metal. my auto body guy applied bondo on the new rear quarters along the trunk area. I thought this was stupid, didn't make sense. I found this out after I started stripping down the trunk hinges and around trunk gasket area. I removed it all. I asked him why he did this he said because the deck lid didn't fit right. That's funny I have the deck lid with me in my garage that is where my chevelle is now. I am finding all these f-ups. He also said he didn't use much filler as he calls it. There was an 1/8 inch of bondo on the new rear quarters at trunk area. So I stripped it down to bare metal bolted the deck lid on and it is looking good. This guy left rust holes at front fenders at kick panel area, did not replace the floor braces and installed new floors, It all has to be ripped up and replaced , new floors, braces, cowl, lower kick panels, rocker panels. he is coming over to help me work on fixing these screw up. I also told him when he had the chevelle for 8 months any problems you see let me know and i will get the panels for the body.
I have given him $19,000 dollars to do this job, but I have to go 14 steps back to remove the new stuff to replace what was missed. I am going to strip everything down to bare metal as we go along for fitment. I am not a bondo guy, it's like covering up something.
Any ideas how I should handle this guy, I do need to get my chevelle completed. I attached some pics of what I did so far. Why are people like this.
I can feel for you. I went thru the same thing with 2 body shops. One took my money ( 7 grand ) cut my Chevelle apart and told me to come and get it in pieces as he was closing the shop. I replaced all the panels myself ie floors, trunk pan, full quarters and inner and outer rockers. Sent it to another local allegedly reputable body shop for finish body work and paint. Spent 11 grand there and found that when he sanded the car to bare metal he didn't prime it right away and the paint lifted from surface rust under the primer. He wouldn't make good and told me to sue. Third time was a charm. A guy who works out of his house took my car and did it completely over from bare metal to paint for 6 grand. Live and learn
 

Registered
Joined
291 Posts
Discussion Starter #40
It is looking Iooking good. Live and learn.
I am also learning how to weld, installing and fitting the panels just right. Seam sealing
 
21 - 40 of 43 Posts
Top