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Hi Everyone, question about body work. I am working with my body guy restoring my 72 chevelle. Should I sand the metal down to bare metal. my auto body guy applied bondo on the new rear quarters along the trunk area. I thought this was stupid, didn't make sense. I found this out after I started stripping down the trunk hinges and around trunk gasket area. I removed it all. I asked him why he did this he said because the deck lid didn't fit right. That's funny I have the deck lid with me in my garage that is where my chevelle is now. I am finding all these f-ups. He also said he didn't use much filler as he calls it. There was an 1/8 inch of bondo on the new rear quarters at trunk area. So I stripped it down to bare metal bolted the deck lid on and it is looking good. This guy left rust holes at front fenders at kick panel area, did not replace the floor braces and installed new floors, It all has to be ripped up and replaced , new floors, braces, cowl, lower kick panels, rocker panels. he is coming over to help me work on fixing these screw up. I also told him when he had the chevelle for 8 months any problems you see let me know and i will get the panels for the body.
I have given him $19,000 dollars to do this job, but I have to go 14 steps back to remove the new stuff to replace what was missed. I am going to strip everything down to bare metal as we go along for fitment. I am not a bondo guy, it's like covering up something.
Any ideas how I should handle this guy, I do need to get my chevelle completed. I attached some pics of what I did so far. Why are people like this.
 

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19k and that’s what you got? Why exactly do you have him still working on it? He obviously doesn’t know the correct way to do body work. Sounds like you would be better off doing it yourself.
 

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Yes, that's what I'm thinking. My welding skills aren't the best, that's the only reason I need him now. Maybe with some welding practice I can manage to do a nice job. Can I use a oxy/acel welder to weld the body panels. I have one of those.
 

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Hope you get your money back!
 

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First off, $19K is a huge amount of money for what you got ($9K would be a lot).
For that much, your entire body should be perfect and, if not painted (and possibly wet-sanded and cut-and-buffed) at the VERY least ready to be shot (black) - Unless every panel has been replaced (entire floor/trunk, fenders, doors, quarters, hood, deck lid) - including any fabrication to achieve perfect panel match and gaps - Which is doesn't sound (or look) like that is the case.

Second, Bondo is not (necessarily) a bad thing.
Any decent body shop worth their salt will skim the ENTIRE car prior to sealing, primer etc. so they can panel sand/block sand it to perfection - a perfect paint job will amplify imperfections in the body, NOT cover them up. But an ⅛" is just covering up lazy/bad metalwork.

Lastly, irregardless of your lack of skills/equipment, I would get as much money back from this guy and/or promptly fire his ass. It doesn't look or sound like he knows what he is doing - Trust me on this (even though you don't know me) if he was willing to do what he has done, that you have found, I would hate to imagine what you haven't found.
I don't know anyone who wants to pay to have something done twice (or more) - Cut your losses.

The guy's shop we had do my dad's car originally, did some great work - some gaps weren't quite as good as we would have liked, other very minor things, but none were dealbreaking.
After an accident, we took it back to him, figuring that we would now be able to get everything dialed in perfect, in addition to the needed repairs - other drivers insurance had to pay.
But by then, unbeknownst to us, he was having financial problems and got rid of his best body man, wouldn't let his overall best man work on it, and did the (shitty) work himself.
Long story, long... The condition it's in now is nowhere near the amount of money that was paid.

20/20 hindsight, we would have taken it somewhere else after the accident.

Bottom line - Don't continue to spend good money on bad work.

Good Luck
 

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Is it a friend of yours? I’d try to be polite about it and approach him somehow and ask about getting some money back. That’s a hard one, anything offensive and he may turn and run. Maybe he got in over his head and didn’t know how to handle the process or just thought filler is the cure all answer. I wish you some good luck, that sucks, hopefully you can get it worked out. That’s a chunk of change.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Does the rear quarter panel where it meets the roof get welded or tinned. This guy welded the quarter at roof line and did apply some filler there. Is that normal procedure?
 

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Yes, that's what I'm thinking. My welding skills aren't the best, that's the only reason I need him now. Maybe with some welding practice I can manage to do a nice job. Can I use a oxy/acel welder to weld the body panels. I have one of those.
NOOOO!! Will be to much heat and warp the panels. A wire welder is what you need.They are easy to learn and use. With an hour of practice you will be welding away on your car.. If you buy from a welding store,more than likely they will let you demo a welder,ask for instructions using it and more than likely a trained welder will show you how to get started. Get rid of that $19,000 guy,looks like you can handle it yourself. Good luck, Tom..
 

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Does the rear quarter panel where it meets the roof get welded or tinned. This guy welded the quarter at roof line and did apply some filler there. Is that normal procedure?
If he just welded the seam then mudded over it, he has no idea how to do the work properly. Mud would be way to thick and crack.
I have seen them leaded/tinned/filed, then skimmed with filler (which is how the factory did it) or a metal patch made to fit and TIG welded in (by a VERY experienced welder) to avoid warping and making things worse - then skimmed with filler.

I am by no means any authority on body work - I'm only going by what I have seen and read - I have only very limited experience with it, (with decent results) but I definitely don't have the skills or patience to tackle an entire project.

Find a couple good shops, look at their finished work AND their work in-progress, that will give you an idea of how thorough they are, their techniques, their skill and their attention to detail - which is probably the single most important trait with regard to body work.
If they won't let you see their current projects, they aren't confident in their work.
Almost any shop can make a finished job look good enough, the best shops will happily show you their work BEFORE filler, sealer, fill/sand primer, paint, clear and the cut/buff.

My buddy called up Rad Rods by Troy (Trepanier) and asked if he could come take a tour of their shop - They were more than happy to take them all through their shop - fabrication, metalwork, body shop, paint - show them work, up close, talk about their projects and let them take as many pics as they wanted - I saw pics of the George Poteet 69 Torino in progress (An absolute work of art - AMAZING !!!)
Of course, with COVID, things may have changed their ability to be as hospitable.

For reference, you should check out Roadster Shop's website and look at the progression of their projects (more than a few Chevelle's) - It will give you an idea of how a job should/could be done.
 

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Does the rear quarter panel where it meets the roof get welded or tinned. This guy welded the quarter at roof line and did apply some filler there. Is that normal procedure?
Factory did both spot weld and lead (tin).
I've got a 70 Monte Carlo with all three; spot weld, lead and filler.
 

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If he just welded the seam then mudded over it, he has no idea how to do the work properly. Mud would be way to thick and crack.
I have seen them leaded/tinned/filed, then skimmed with filler (which is how the factory did it) or a metal patch made to fit and TIG welded in (by a VERY experienced welder) to avoid warping and making things worse - then skimmed with filler.

I am by no means any authority on body work - I'm only going by what I have seen and read - I have only very limited experience with it, (with decent results) but I definitely don't have the skills or patience to tackle an entire project.
I've been in this biz four decades and a fully welded sailpanel filled with short strand and finished with body filler has never failed.
Why do non pros post advice if they are not qualified? The pros I know don't post here anymore because the novices think they know it all.
 

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I've been in this biz four decades and a fully welded sailpanel filled with short strand and finished with body filler has never failed.
Why do non pros post advice if they are not qualified? The pros I know don't post here anymore because the novices think they know it all.
Excellent........

Did the OP mention short strand glass filler? Gorilla Hair? No.

I stated my opinion, based on knowledge that I have been given/seen/read/heard (etc).
Did I claim I was any type of authority? An expert? No.

I know that I am a novice. I am one who knows he doesn't know it all.

As a matter of fact, I stated that I was "by no means any authority on body work - I'm only going by what I have seen and read - I have only very limited experience with it, (with decent results) but I definitely don't have the skills or patience to tackle an entire project."

Hmmmm

Also, the OP mentioned that [the] "guy welded the quarter at roof line and did apply some filler there".
Wouldn't you agree that filling that void with just body filler would be a ticking time bomb?
Maybe not...

Why do experts wait until someone posts something on here that contradicts exactly what they would do in a given situation and then knock someone down with condescension, ridicule and arrogance?

The novices, on here, who don't know how to do something, will stop posting questions, on here, if the "experts", on here, continue to talk down their nose at others for their lack of knowledge, but offer the advice of seeking an experts advice and counsel.

Like:
"Find a couple good shops, look at their finished work AND their work in-progress, that will give you an idea of how thorough they are, their techniques, their skill and their attention to detail - which is probably the single most important trait with regard to body work.
If they won't let you see their current projects, they aren't confident in their work.
Almost any shop can make a finished job look good enough, the best shops will happily show you their work BEFORE filler, sealer, fill/sand primer, paint, clear and the cut/buff."

Are you threatened by THAT advice?
 

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"Hypersensitive"? (laughs)

You explicitly called me out, I responded.

If you didn't want or even expect a response, you wouldn't have sent your post.
Who is being hypersensitive here? (Answer: You......)
Not me, I clearly explained my opinion and position in my post that you quoted. 🥱

Maybe..... Are you the guy that is responsible for the questionable bodywork to the OPs car and are now trying to salvage your "reputation"? How would I know.... 🤔

Cheers 🍻
 

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Hi Everyone, question about body work. I am working with my body guy restoring my 72 chevelle. Should I sand the metal down to bare metal. my auto body guy applied bondo on the new rear quarters along the trunk area. I thought this was stupid, didn't make sense. I found this out after I started stripping down the trunk hinges and around trunk gasket area. I removed it all. I asked him why he did this he said because the deck lid didn't fit right. That's funny I have the deck lid with me in my garage that is where my chevelle is now. I am finding all these f-ups. He also said he didn't use much filler as he calls it. There was an 1/8 inch of bondo on the new rear quarters at trunk area. So I stripped it down to bare metal bolted the deck lid on and it is looking good. This guy left rust holes at front fenders at kick panel area, did not replace the floor braces and installed new floors, It all has to be ripped up and replaced , new floors, braces, cowl, lower kick panels, rocker panels. he is coming over to help me work on fixing these screw up. I also told him when he had the chevelle for 8 months any problems you see let me know and i will get the panels for the body.
I have given him $19,000 dollars to do this job, but I have to go 14 steps back to remove the new stuff to replace what was missed. I am going to strip everything down to bare metal as we go along for fitment. I am not a bondo guy, it's like covering up something.
Any ideas how I should handle this guy, I do need to get my chevelle completed. I attached some pics of what I did so far. Why are people like this.
He banged you. And HARD .
The very first thing I would do is record everything that was done wrong/ or not done
In video and or in photos and writing like your building a case .
And then you present everything to him in a nice well organized tidy package and convince him that hes gonna be a loser if you file suit and that if hes willing to settle for 8 or 9 g's he can avoid the lawsuit .
If he wont settle then I'd look closer at his reputation and buissness in order to access if he has enough to lose. If he does then I'd see a lawyer and lawsuit his dirty ASS .
Thats alot of loot man .
On the body work . Bondo sucks . Period .
Even a little bit. If it needs that then that means it needs real body work. Metal work/fab. Glazing compound is the limit . Well on a car like that it should be .
I used to smear that bondo crap on 2500 dollar junks I was buying for resale .
Personally if it were me I'd walk up to the guy with a big blob of that S HIT in my hand with a rubber glove on and no covid mask and I'd stuff it right in his face lol
 

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Yeah RIGHT!! if it was a "friend " of mine we'd be on the outs in real short order . Thats a BIG shot to take at anyone no less a friend .
Holy s hit ! Half court shot. Hail mary.
Out of the park grand slam.
Huge bang .
Lawsuit his dirty ass
 
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