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I ran across a few coffee cans full of "Chevelle" bolts that I forgot I had. Apparently, they got wet and are pretty rusty.

I currently have no plans to salvage any, but you never know. So I thought I should put then all in a new bucket (the coffee cans are rusting too), and pour something in to dissolve the rust... I know for spraying there's stuff like PB Blaster and WD40, etc, but is there any inexpensive products that I can just pour in and leave indefinitely? Then "someday" when I get around to it, I could remove and clean stuff as needed, IF needed...

Thanks...
 

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I soak in white vinegar for a couple of days and use a wire wheel on my grinder to clean. Then I spray with PB Blaster to keep clean.
 

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PB Blaster will do the trick without having to fill the can. Just get the bolts wet and wait it out. I did a 40 ford truck a few years ago that had been sitting in a field in Oklahoma since 1970's. A little PB Blaster and the next day i removed every nut and bolt and didn't strip or break a single one.
 

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I hear "Evaporust" works great. I have used electrolysis with good results also.
 

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Evaporust is amazing. Just put them in overnight and take them out the next day. All the rust will be gone.
 

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To preserve nits and bolts, a light coating of Water Displacement Formula 40 is what I use to prevent further rust from old bolts in cans. Sounds like good advice above on removing the rust from the contents.


Today 50% of all marriages end in divorce, but 100% of car part deliveries end in happiness.

72 Chevelle Malibu 327/350 Restomod
57 Chevy Bel Air 283/Powerglide
96 Ford Ranger (aka Truck Norris)
 

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I second the Evaporust....:thumbsup:
 

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I third it. You can get it at Harbor Freight.
 

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Here is an interesting finding on Penetrating Oils
Recently “Machinist Workshop Magazine” did a test on penetrating oils. Using nuts and
bolts that they ‘scientifically rusted’ to a uniform degree by soaking in salt water, they then
tested the break-out torque required to loosen the nuts. They treated the nuts with a variety
of penetrants and measured the torque required to loosen them.
This is what they came up with:
Nothing: 516 lbs
WD-40: 238 lbs;
PB Blaster: 214 lbs;
Liquid Wrench: 127 lbs,
Kano Kroil: 106 lbs
(ATF)/Acetone mix (50/50): 50 lbs.

I have heard several people comment that the ATF/Acetone mix works really well, I haven't tried it yet personally but I plan on mixing my own brew and putting it in a spray bottle. If you do a search you will find many people who swear by this stuff. And it's inexpensive!:thumbsup:
 

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Here is an interesting finding on Penetrating Oils
Recently “Machinist Workshop Magazine” did a test on penetrating oils. Using nuts and
bolts that they ‘scientifically rusted’ to a uniform degree by soaking in salt water, they then
tested the break-out torque required to loosen the nuts. They treated the nuts with a variety
of penetrants and measured the torque required to loosen them.
This is what they came up with:
Nothing: 516 lbs
WD-40: 238 lbs;
PB Blaster: 214 lbs;
Liquid Wrench: 127 lbs,
Kano Kroil: 106 lbs
(ATF)/Acetone mix (50/50): 50 lbs.

I have heard several people comment that the ATF/Acetone mix works really well, I haven't tried it yet personally but I plan on mixing my own brew and putting it in a spray bottle. If you do a search you will find many people who swear by this stuff. And it's inexpensive!:thumbsup:



Seems fishy
 

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ATF and acetone DOES work! But, be sure the bottle or container will withstand the acetone. I can tell you which ones won't :(
 
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I used a vibratory tumbler on all of my old nut, bolt, washers, small brackets from engine lift to plug wire separators. Combination of ceramic and steel seems to work best. Turn it on and a day later they look almost new. No chemicals used.
 

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Vinegar is not a set it and forget it method. Same with krud kutter. They are two different kinds of acids and will eventually eat the entire bolt. I left some door hinge bolts in vinegar a few weeks. forgot about them. Now I have rust colored toothpicks. I got a 3 gallon tub og evaporust. it gets the job done and won't hurt the metal after a long time. I noticed some discoloration, but no rust.
 

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ATF and acetone DOES work! But, be sure the bottle or container will withstand the acetone. I can tell you which ones won't :(


Any bottle made of High Density Poly-Ethelene or Poly Propelene will hold acetone. Look on the bottom, next to the recycling symbol, it should be marked HDPE or PP.


Today 50% of all marriages end in divorce, but 100% of car part deliveries end in happiness.

72 Chevelle Malibu 327/350 Restomod
57 Chevy Bel Air 283/Powerglide
96 Ford Ranger (aka Truck Norris)
 

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ATF and acetone DOES work! But, be sure the bottle or container will withstand the acetone. I can tell you which ones won't :(

So explain this to me...


What was the torque BEFORE the bolts were tightened?


Adding a lubricant can reduce this torque setting THIS MUCH?
From 500+lbs, to only 50?
 

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I use the mix because I try to minimize costs and it works but I can't attest to the results of the test
 
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