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I didn't want to hijack the POR-15 thread but I am wondering what you guys think of these 3 products. I am using Eastwood on my black car now and like what it looks like but wonder how it lasts.
 

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I didn't see how the surface was prepped in the comparison article, and have only actually used POR myself. But I can say with experience that POR is not a preventative at all. Billed as a conversion coating. In fact, if you simply apply to bare, unrusted steel, you can get peel and flake off. I've used POR on Jeep frames that are now 4 and 6 years old with regular off road exposure and it has held up fine. Only need 1 coat, and then top coated with rattle can black.

I'm not a chemist either, but again, with proper prep (wirebrush/removal of loose rust, metal ready application, POR, topcoat) I've had excellent results.
 

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I too had great results with POR15 when applied to rust (wire brushed, metal ready, etc). I've heard alot of good things about rust bullet on another site, but the down side for me is that it needs a coat of black if you want the chassis to look factory.
 

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I didn't see how the surface was prepped in the comparison article, and have only actually used POR myself. But I can say with experience that POR is not a preventative at all. Billed as a conversion coating. In fact, if you simply apply to bare, unrusted steel, you can get peel and flake off. I've used POR on Jeep frames that are now 4 and 6 years old with regular off road exposure and it has held up fine. Only need 1 coat, and then top coated with rattle can black.

I'm not a chemist either, but again, with proper prep (wirebrush/removal of loose rust, metal ready application, POR, topcoat) I've had excellent results.
The article followed the directions on the product. And, by far, the RE was easier to prep for.

-Todd
 

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I used Eastwood's RE on the frames of both Chevelles. 1 has been done for 9 years, the other 6 years. They both still look as good as they did when I did them. However, I am on the kick of now completely eliminating rust all together via sandblasting (bodies) or galvanizing (frames).
 

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I've used both Rust Encapsulator and POR 15 several times.

Rust Encapsulator seems to work fine on sandblasted surfaces (where one may not really need it anyway). I tried it on some suspension parts that were not sandblasted, and even used Eastwood's cleaning prep stuff before applying the RE. It peeled within a day and I don't trust it since then, except over sandblasted surfaces.

POR 15 seems to work well, if the surface is properly prepared. Either sandblast or thoroughly clean by hand and then apply their Marine Clean and then their Metal Ready. Leave the surface a bit rough if possible; rotary wire brushing may make the surface too smooth and hurt adhesion.

Based on my experience, I prefer POR 15 over RE. The RE peeling spooked me and I don't trust it any more.
 
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