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Easy questions, this is my first attempt at painting so sorry about the dumb questions.

The paint I am using has a 10-15 minute flash time between coats, do i have to disassemble the paint gun and clean it between every coat of the same type (base, clear, primer); or is it ok to let the gun sit that long without being sprayed????

Secondly, I realize there is going to be orange peel to be wet sanded away. Do I have to wet sand the base coat before I put clear on? or can i just put all my coats on and then wet sand the clear??

Thirdly, I am looking for a good gun for a beginner for around $100, any recommendations??

Thanks,
 

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You do not clean your gun between coats. Your tech sheet will give the pot life of the paint. That is the theoretical time the paint can sit in the gun before it sets up. The time listed is a guide.
I have not seen an automotive primer, paint or clear that had a pot life too short to allow you to get the coats on.
Remember, as you spray and remix a new cupful, you have a new start to the potlife.
 

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On that cleaning question? Do you clean the gun after the base coat is done, but before the CC?
 

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I have a paint question. I am by no means a newbie to painting cars but I always painted lacquer with my Binks #7. Matter of fact, I painted my 65 year before last with it and PPG lacquer. Came out great. I had painted my son's with Valspar base/clear and had purchased a Sharps Cobalt HVLP gun. I really dislike this gun but may be doing something wrong. When I got the gun, I had never painted with the new style paints or HVLP guns so my thought was High Volume/Low Pressure =low air pressure. I had it around25 to 30 pounds at the gun. It was a crappy pattern and just didn't spray "right" in my opinion. Then the guy I got the gun from said I should have had the pressure at 50 at the gun and the air cap of the gun would cut it to 10 pounds at the nozzle. I tried it when I used the lacquer primer on my 65 year before last and it still just didn't seem like it was producing well. The pattern is way more narrower than I am used to. Do you guys have any suggestions for me with this Sharps gun? Thanks.
 

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OK. I don't have the bucks for another gun at the time. Can I use my Binks #7 with the new style paints (Base/clear)?
 

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About 12 years ago I bought a cobalt gun and tried everything as it was my first gravity feed so I assumed the lousy performance was due to my inexperience. I've since learned that I can pretty much set any gun to perform well except for a cobalt. I recently sold it for cheap.
As for the op, I usually spray a little straight reducer between clear coat rounds and always between epoxy and 2k primer coats.

Jerry
 

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OK. I don't have the bucks for another gun at the time. Can I use my Binks #7 with the new style paints (Base/clear)?
I'm not familiar with the Sharpe Cobalt HVLP, but I love their conventional guns. Yes, you can use the Ol' #7 and it will do a good job. HOWEVER, most #7s have a pretty large cap and put out a whole bunch of paint. At today's paint material prices, especially base/clear materials, an HVLP with the proper cap will save you a ton of money.

Getting use to an HVLP gun can take awhile. They aren't quite the same as conventional guns. Trying to make them operate like a conventional gun just doesn't work. The adjustments are different, the spraying technique is different. After you get it adjusted properly and get the spraying technique down, you will appreciate the reduced overspray and less material usage.
 

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I guess I will have to try to find a different gun. I know I can't afford one of the top brands anymore like I used to be able to. I need to do some work on my 92 Chevy truck and this year I guess I will be using the ol' Binks. Thanks guys.
 

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This is probably an easy question for you guys to answer. I've got a 69 chevelle and am looking into painting it myself. How much would this cost me if i didnt use the best paint but didnt use the cheapest either?
All I can tell you is that I paid about $550.00 or so for 5 quarts (I gallon and 1 quart) of PPG acrylic lacquer, 2 gallons of good mid temp PPG thinner, 1 gallon of Nason acrylic lacquer primer 2 gallons of cheaper Dupont mid temp thinner and extras such as paper, filler for smoothing little dings and some good 3M buffing compound. There may have been a touch more cash here and there but not much more. This was summer before last and I bought everything from a local painter's supply. They had to get one of the tints special to mix my factory 65 Chevelle factory paint. Something about lacquer on a car that came with lacquer gets to me.
 

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hf guns are like 15 bucks and arent bad guns
Where can you find these inexpensive guns? I spent around $130.00 for my Cobalt and it really does a crappy job. Regardless of how I thin my paint or primers, regardless of how much pressure it just won't give me a wide pattern or a smooth finish like my old Binks #7.
 

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Where can you find these inexpensive guns? I spent around $130.00 for my Cobalt and it really does a crappy job. Regardless of how I thin my paint or primers, regardless of how much pressure it just won't give me a wide pattern or a smooth finish like my old Binks #7.
Caution: I have one of those cheap HF paint guns. It's just OK, but I use it only for primers and poop jobs. It doesn't atomize well enough for nice looking topcoats IMHO.

http://www.harborfreight.com/20-oz-high-volume-low-pressure-gravity-feed-spray-gun-47016.html
 

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yes a binks #7 will do a nice job I use it when I do single stage paints .. MY dads 62 lark I painted 10 years ago





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