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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
My car is mostly used for drag racing, but looks like a typical street/strip car.

I did the body work on the car a long time ago. Was always more interested in going faster than spending the time to take the car apart for paint. There was also some fear and hesitancy that I couldn’t achieve the type of paint job I wanted. Paying someone to do it was never considered an option. So it just wore primer for many years.

The last few years has seen 3 local tracks close and the COVID-19 finished off the 4th that I primarily frequented (20 minutes away). The closest track which I don’t really care for is 1.5 hours away.

Time for paint after all the years!

This is single stage with clear. I have found this works best for me when painting outside. Absolutely takes longer, but is yielding results I can live with. There is 1000% chance bugs and dust are going to get in the base. I shoot the color one weekend and sand and clear the next, etc.

I was having hell with solvent pop initially. Painted the bumper 4 times. Even when starting at 5 AM at 80-85 deg. Nevermind when 100+. I found the first coat has to be REALLY light and sprayed from further away.

A good paint gun is MORE important for a newbie. I bought a TEKNA ProLite for the clear. Makes all the difference in the world.




 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)




The hood is just the single stage with no clear yet. The decklid and bumper are cleared for comparison.
 
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Get enough paint on it, then cut or color sand and buff and you will be surprised how good a rookie paint job can look. Got bugs because of the non paint booth conditions? If they are still standing on their feet, pull them out with tweezers. If not, leave them and sand them out.
 

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Go after it! It's a kick to paint up a hotrod on your own. Remember my first single stage, a '70 yellow Elky. Painted it outside also, shop was too dirty and I was young, and impulsive. Got bugs and dirt, and anything within 20 ft. decided to join in. Got the second coat on, then came a drizzle, needed a third coat so I grabbed a couple ladders, put a beam across them, tied it in with ropes, then draped a tarp across the ladders and stood at the other end forming a "v" roof. Stood there for the better part of an hour before the drops stopped.....then dismantled and shot the third coat....after picking a few bugs off with tweezers. It looked "okay" but after a good color sand and buff, it looked better than a handful of the cruiz-in cars.
 

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Looking damn good so far.
 

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It looks really good! As I'm trying to finish up my restomod 69, I decided to paint the door jambs since fenders were off to replace door hinges. I was surprised the decent results I got with just using an aerosol can of ppg paint and clear coat. Now, I'm getting ready for a more exposed part...painting the right rear quarter tail light housing. Even though I'm a perfectionist, I'm not expecting perfection. I'm ok with it since mine is a driver.
 

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Got a few areas on this C4 which need touching up
What grit are you sanding down to before primer? After primer before paint?
Small areas, has to be an improvement
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Got a few areas on this C4 which need touching up
What grit are you sanding down to before primer? After primer before paint?
Small areas, has to be an improvement
Epoxy and body filler sanded with 80 and then 180. Then 3 coats of 2K urethane is blocked with 180 until straight (the VFN hood got 4 blocking sessions - lots of real estate!), then 320 and 400 on a long board before color. Can get away with 320 as the single stage color is pretty thick even reduced 10% (super slow reducer due to heat here) and fills the 320 or 400 sanding scratches just fine. 4 coats of color, 30 minutes between coats. Wait 6+ days and color sand with 600. Then 4 coats of clear, also 30 minutes between coats. I figure I'm sanding off 1 coat of each color and clear.

1.5 tip in Devilbiss Staring Line gun for color. 1.4 Tip in TEKNA Prolite for HS clear.

I wet sand the clear with 600/1000/1500/2000 and then cut and buff from there. With the TEKNA Prolite gun, I can lay the clear down with very little orange peal (see bumper close up). As good or better than new factory finishes. If I didn't have bugs and debris, I wouldn't bother the cutting and buffing. The last picture of the decklid was after the clear was dry, before cut and buff. I can't get that kind of finish with the Starting Line or Eastwood Concours Pro guns. I'm sure someone more experienced can. I can't without pushing things too far and getting sags and runs.

It is for sure a good bit of extra work sanding the color before clear, but resolves the bugs and dust issue from painting outside in the summer. Plus I only have a few hours working in the morning before it is too hot. That should be improving by the time I'm ready for the main body. I didn't have good tweezers for the clear on the deck lid. Have 2 small bug parts that are preserved forever Jurassic Park style. It's not noticeable unless your face is right down on the spots. I know they are there, but most others probably won't. Good enough for a race car.

I'm doing the prep work on the front bumper, headlight buckets and front fenders this weekend. Those will get color next weekend. Then I have some decisions to make on what I'm going to do on the doors. As with most Chevelles my car is WAY, WAY heavy for several of the race classes I might want to run in the future. My naturally aspirated SBC car is 200 lbs heavier than what a 632 BBC on a 400 shot of N2O could run, etc.

Full disclosure. I haven't painted a car before, but have painted trailers, boat trailers, mail boxes, furniture, and tons of other smaller stuff with automotive paint. I have primed and blocked 4 cars and am really comfortable with getting body work straight.

 

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Looks good.

What color? Looks like silver on the deck lid. Metallic? What brand paint? Thanks for the info on the Tekna Prolite. I had seen a similar testimony on here some years ago about one of the Iwata guns, that it could make a beginner painter look like an intermediate..

I have primed and blocked 4 cars and am really comfortable with getting body work straight.
Wish I had your confidence on getting it straight
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Looks good.

What color? Looks like silver on the deck lid. Metallic? What brand paint? Thanks for the info on the Tekna Prolite. I had seen a similar testimony on here some years ago about one of the Iwata guns, that it could make a beginner painter look like an intermediate..

Wish I had your confidence on getting it straight
Sorry, just saw this.

Base color is actually “Pure White”. Paint is just Summit single stage Urethane. I usually work 6 AM to 6 - 8 PM and can’t get to paint supply stores when they are open. So mail order is easiest for me. Plus it is cheap and has held up well on several things I have painted around the house that sit outside in the weather 24/7. I can’t see spending 5-10 times as much on PPG, etc. on a race car.

Just takes the right tools and time and patience on getting things straight. I used to be intimidated by both the body work and paint. Worst case is you sand it off and do it over.
 

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Sorry, just saw this.

Base color is actually “Pure White”. Paint is just Summit single stage Urethane. I usually work 6 AM to 6 - 8 PM and can’t get to paint supply stores when they are open. So mail order is easiest for me. Plus it is cheap and has held up well on several things I have painted around the house that sit outside in the weather 24/7. I can’t see spending 5-10 times as much on PPG, etc. on a race car.

Just takes the right tools and time and patience on getting things straight. I used to be intimidated by both the body work and paint. Worst case is you sand it off and do it over.
Thanks. I agree on the paint choice, the Summit paint seems to be getting decent reviews and if you're not building a show car it's a good way to go. I need more practice on my bodywork skills as far as getting things arrow straight, so, I'll keep working at it.
 

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Are you painting the individual pieces/panels at different times (as in, one day do deck lid, one day do hood, one day do fenders, one day do doors, etc.)?

I'm going to be doing mine next spring, and due to my circumstances, this is the way I was going to do it, as I got each piece ready. I was told if I did it this way, I'd never get the color to match on the individual panels. ???

I've never painted a car, but I used to prep and spray custom furniture with oil base through a siphon feed gun, so I'm not completely terrified of spraying.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Are you painting the individual pieces/panels at different times (as in, one day do deck lid, one day do hood, one day do fenders, one day do doors, etc.)?

I'm going to be doing mine next spring, and due to my circumstances, this is the way I was going to do it, as I got each piece ready. I was told if I did it this way, I'd never get the color to match on the individual panels. ???

I've never painted a car, but I used to prep and spray custom furniture with oil base through a siphon feed gun, so I'm not completely terrified of spraying.
I am painting the car in pieces. Practice on the smaller pieces and get your system figured out. I bought 2 gallons of paint. Put both gallons of on a paint shaker and dumped them into a new/clean bucket and stir/mixed and put back into the gallon cans. No reason for it not to match doing it this way. If the cans sit for more than a week they go back on a paint shaker.

Metallic colors would greatly increase the risk of match issues painting separate.
 
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