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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Back in 2004 someone asked the question if this was suitable for street and the answer was race only.

Could not find any other references using search.

There must be quite a few people out there especially in the south running alcohol.

Is there any consensus on the best/cheapest/most effective way to setup and run on alcohol for strip only use ?
 

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I personally have a custom Alky dominator built by a local carb builder. He has been building alky carbs for probably 20 or more years. It is a 1050 I bought brand new about 8 years ago. Paid about $450 for the carb, cost me $400 for the conversion. Runs great. It is a little fat in the burnout and "blubbers" a little but runs very good WOT, and idles good and clean. Does not milk the oil. I run a BG return style regulator on a fuel log, and have -10 feed, and -8 return lines. Mallory comp 140 pump works great after changing the seals to alcohol compatable ones. We just dyno'ed two BBC's yesterday. A mild 540 with AFR 325's, and a pretty stout 555 with Dart 355 full CNC heads. My alky carb made more tq and hp than any of the other dominators we had, and we had 8 different ones. A BRE(Book Racing Enterprises) 1150, a Pro Systems 1050, a Gary Williams 1050, and an unknown alky 1050, amoung a few others. I'll post the specs and results on the engines when I get time.
 

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No their not suitable for a real street car.
I have run both an alky carb and a Flying toilet.
How fast is your car and how fast do you want to go??

Usually you want a front mounted cell is required and having to prime it w/gas to fire up when the air temp is under 65°.
Once the engine has heat 130° and higher it fires without a gas prime
"most times" with a Toilet
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
1968 hot rod

Basically about as quick as you are running. Want to stay above 9.99 and below 135.

There is not much chance of my present combination getting closer than about a second and 15 mph from this goal, but eventually I will get there.

Understand there are some issues with the alcohol, but there are also some big positives also.

Trying to do a bit of research before I get a combination that could benefit from either high octane fuel or alcohol.

I know nitrous would put a big dent in that second, but I don't really want to go that route.
 

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i run a 950hp redone by A.P.D on my 383,i have a 10 gallon fuel cell in the trunk a holley dominator 250 fuel pump with 2 #8 feed lines and filters to the pump and a # 10 to the magnaflow regulator fuel psi is 8 lbs,on my street car that also see's alot of track time, the only downfall to running alcohol is you have to keep your oil changed, but i don't mind i change my oil every 20 passes,and i love the performance...3680 lbs + small block +177 c.i weiand = fast as hell....


 

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Usually you want a front mounted cell is required and having to prime it w/gas to fire up when the air temp is under 65°.
Once the engine has heat 130° and higher it fires without a gas prime
"most times" with a Toilet
I have NONE of these issues with the alcohol dominator. Below about 45* I put one squirt of B12 Chemtool into each throttle bore. Starts right up.
 

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Flying Toilets or Mechanical fuel injection systems will require a gas prime to light when colder than 65° and sometimes at warmer temps.
You get to know their quirks after a while.

This was the same with my Rupert 4150 and any other 50 racers I know that run alky Drag or Circle track,even the 600cc electronic FI micro sprints.

Alky doesn't like to light off when it gets cold out up here in the Northeast without a gas prime.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Yup, for the G body, yup talked to Jerry, yup read the 2004 thread before starting this one, gotta love that wheels up 71 Chevelle, thanks for the posts, keepem coming, good to hear a variety of opinions and setups.
 
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