Richmond 5 speed
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ratt69ss, I've been wanting one of these myself. The Richmond uses a 26 spline input and 32 spline output. Your 69 Muncie has a different input and output shaft size. You will need to change to a 26 spline clutch disk, and get a 71 or later Muncie tranny yoke, or one from a turbo 400. The shifter mounts in the same location--so no trouble there. You'll have to move/modify your tranny mount, as the Richmond bolts up about an inch or two back from the Muncie. Driveshaft length doesn't need to be changed. Hurst or Long make shifters to fit this trans. It is a pretty simple swap, but it lightens your wallet over $2000.
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Rat,
I have a factory (I ordered it new) 76 5sp Cutlass in which I replaced the stock B-W 5sp (too weak for my 455) with a richmond 5sp. It is an excellent tranny. I installed it about 10yrs ago. I have a Hurst shifter and it works great. Summit used to be a dealer for Richmond products and at the time they sold the 5sp for $1550., no tax, free freight. Corvgreg is right. Remove your clutch and change the disc to a fine spline and get a 71+ muncie/turbo 400 yoke (be sure to get a Chev yoke, Olds turbo 400 yokes have different size u-joint cups). Besure to check out the first gear options. It is real easy to go too low. And the 5sp is NOT an overdrive, 5th is 1:1. the 6sp is OD. Unless you have a killer 500hp engine, the Richmond is about as strong as they come for an all around street tranny.
One last thing, are you familiar with the noisy Muncie M-22, Rockcrusher? The Richmond is noisy, and gets quieter as you go up in gears. And is silent in 5th. It doesn't bother me, I kind of like to hear the gears whine. Also, in cold weather, it is a little stiff in the lower gears until it heats up a little (takes about 5-6 blocks). That's just one of it's characteristics, which, as far as I am concerned, is good because it prevents you being abusive when it is cold. I wish I was rich enough to have a Richmond in all my cars.
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I have a factory (I ordered it new) 76 5sp Cutlass in which I replaced the stock B-W 5sp (too weak for my 455) with a richmond 5sp. It is an excellent tranny. I installed it about 10yrs ago. I have a Hurst shifter and it works great. Summit used to be a dealer for Richmond products and at the time they sold the 5sp for $1550., no tax, free freight. Corvgreg is right. Remove your clutch and change the disc to a fine spline and get a 71+ muncie/turbo 400 yoke (be sure to get a Chev yoke, Olds turbo 400 yokes have different size u-joint cups). Besure to check out the first gear options. It is real easy to go too low. And the 5sp is NOT an overdrive, 5th is 1:1. the 6sp is OD. Unless you have a killer 500hp engine, the Richmond is about as strong as they come for an all around street tranny.
One last thing, are you familiar with the noisy Muncie M-22, Rockcrusher? The Richmond is noisy, and gets quieter as you go up in gears. And is silent in 5th. It doesn't bother me, I kind of like to hear the gears whine. Also, in cold weather, it is a little stiff in the lower gears until it heats up a little (takes about 5-6 blocks). That's just one of it's characteristics, which, as far as I am concerned, is good because it prevents you being abusive when it is cold. I wish I was rich enough to have a Richmond in all my cars.
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Hello Rat,
I have a Richmond 5spd in a 70 Chevelle. Tranny bolts right in with same crossmember and driveshaft (26 spline input, M22/Turbo 400 output shaft).
The shifter is designed to come up near the driver's seat, so the floor of the car will need to be modified. I modified my shifter to come up in the center console by using parts from a Hurst Competition Plus shifter, and re-drilling the shifter mounting plate that attaches to the tranny. It can be done.
I've been giving my tranny a workout for 8+ years and have no complaints.
Good luck....Joe.
I have a Richmond 5spd in a 70 Chevelle. Tranny bolts right in with same crossmember and driveshaft (26 spline input, M22/Turbo 400 output shaft).
The shifter is designed to come up near the driver's seat, so the floor of the car will need to be modified. I modified my shifter to come up in the center console by using parts from a Hurst Competition Plus shifter, and re-drilling the shifter mounting plate that attaches to the tranny. It can be done.
I've been giving my tranny a workout for 8+ years and have no complaints.
Good luck....Joe.
A note about the floor on the Chevelle when using the Richmond and a Hurst shifter. The stock mounting position of the Hurst shifter is very high and causes no end of pain in the area of the floor / console. I did this conversion a long time ago and had to hammer the floor a fair amount to clear the shifter mechanism. If you want the stock console in a 70/72 or want the stock floor shift boot your screwed.
Recently I put a Richmond 5 speeder in a 66 Vette which I wanted very much to keep stock in appearance. There is No WAY to retain the stock 4 speed console UNLESS the shifter could be mounted lower. I found that the shifter can be lowered about 1.5 inches if you reconfigure the mounting plate that attaches the shifter to the tail shaft.
It is as simple as making 3 cuts in the shifter mtg plate and re welding it back together. You need to do some very minor bending ( do it with the arms cold DO NOT HEAT ) of the shift arms to accommodate the reconfigured plate.
If your interested in the way geometry of the shifter mtg plate needs to be cut answer with a phone number or mail address and I will send you a drawing.
P.S. You may have to fool a little with your crossmember to clear the lowered shifter if you follow my instructions / plan. Just a quick heat and hammer some clearance into the upper side of the C-Member
Recently I put a Richmond 5 speeder in a 66 Vette which I wanted very much to keep stock in appearance. There is No WAY to retain the stock 4 speed console UNLESS the shifter could be mounted lower. I found that the shifter can be lowered about 1.5 inches if you reconfigure the mounting plate that attaches the shifter to the tail shaft.
It is as simple as making 3 cuts in the shifter mtg plate and re welding it back together. You need to do some very minor bending ( do it with the arms cold DO NOT HEAT ) of the shift arms to accommodate the reconfigured plate.
If your interested in the way geometry of the shifter mtg plate needs to be cut answer with a phone number or mail address and I will send you a drawing.
P.S. You may have to fool a little with your crossmember to clear the lowered shifter if you follow my instructions / plan. Just a quick heat and hammer some clearance into the upper side of the C-Member
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