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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a Retrosound Long Beach in my 72 Chevelle and since upgrading from points to HEI my radio does like others here and cuts out when running. I have tried just about everything to get rid of the issue (checking grounds, running new power wires, ferrite chokes, resistance wires, etc) nothing seems to help. Retrosound recommended to relocate the radio body away from the firewall to move it from the RFI. Anyone had luck with relocating the body away from the dash. The cut out goes away when I extend the wires and sit it on the seat. I don't want to put the radio under the seat and go through all the hassle of running new wires if the same problem exists with the relocation kit. Might be easier to go back to points......


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I have a Retrosound Long Beach in my 72 Chevelle and since upgrading from points to HEI my radio does like others here and cuts out when running. I have tried just about everything to get rid of the issue (checking grounds, running new power wires, ferrite chokes, resistance wires, etc) nothing seems to help. Retrosound recommended to relocate the radio body away from the firewall to move it from the RFI. Anyone had luck with relocating the body away from the dash. The cut out goes away when I extend the wires and sit it on the seat. I don't want to put the radio under the seat and go through all the hassle of running new wires if the same problem exists with the relocation kit. Might be easier to go back to points......


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In an earlier post,you said the issue was fixed (December 27,2016, Had to install ferrite chokes on the battery and ignition power leads, works well now, but dang frustrating that a 6 week old unit needs "modification ").

So, I'm guessing the issue came back ?.

With it being out of the dash and sitting on the seat further away from the HEI, is there any room to put in a thin steel plate between the chassis of the radio while it is in the dash and the firewall where on the other side is the HEI ?.

YEARS ago I had issues with a harness on a vehicle being close to the topside of an indash radio and it was inducing a signal into the radio and there was no way to relocate the harness as it was a new vehicle still under warranty, and by pulling the radio out of the dash, the noise went away and when slid back in, the noise returned so I knew it was an induced noise so what I did was wrap the radio chassis with tape and then fabricated a thin aluminum shield to wrap around the radio on the top, sides, and the back and then wrapped this with tape also when around the radio. I then made another aluminum shield to go across the bottom of the radio and the sides and back and then wrapped it with tape to where basically I had a floating, ungrounded aluminum shield around the chassis of the radio. This stopped a good 90% of the noise.

On a car of mine, I had an old tube type TV in the dash and also had speakers next to it and I could see discoloration on the top corners of the TV screen by where the speakers were at next to it and by moving the speakers away, the discoloration went away but when the speakers were brought close again, the rainbow colors reappeared. On this I took a thin piece of steel, wrapped it with tape ti insulate it and keep it from becoming grounded or touching the speakers magnet, thus magnetizing it and put it between the magnet on the speaker and the TV and the discoloration stopped as the steel blocked the magnetic field.

On yours, if you have the room, see if a piece of thin steel wrapped and covered in tape placed between the firewall and the radio chassis while the radio is in the dash affects anything.

Since you have the radio now on extension wires, leave those in place as I'm wondering it this might be coming into play with having the radio now working properly. When you extended the wires, did you also extend the antenna lead ?. If the antenna lead while the radio was in the dash was connected and now it's not with the radio on the seat, this might be giving you a false positive cure.

Jim
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Installing the ferrite chokes seemed to have solved the problem, it worked for about 3 days and then started acting up again. Worked great for a few days, then one cut out a minute, two, then so on. Now it is intolerable to listen to this radio. I have not tried a plate behind the dash, should be able to fit one in there. Will have to try that. With the radio on the seat, the antenna is disconnected, will have to extend that for testing and if I have to move it. Pretty sad that Retrosound tech support is to move the radio, but outside of the plate on the firewall or going back to points, might be my only option.


Today 50% of all marriages end in divorce, but 100% of car part deliveries end in happiness.

72 Chevelle Malibu 327/350 Restomod
57 Chevy Bel Air 283/Powerglide
96 Ford Ranger (aka Truck Norris)
 

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Installing the ferrite chokes seemed to have solved the problem, it worked for about 3 days and then started acting up again. Worked great for a few days, then one cut out a minute, two, then so on. Now it is intolerable to listen to this radio. I have not tried a plate behind the dash, should be able to fit one in there. Will have to try that. With the radio on the seat, the antenna is disconnected, will have to extend that for testing and if I have to move it. Pretty sad that Retrosound tech support is to move the radio, but outside of the plate on the firewall or going back to points, might be my only option.
I just remember you having issues and I thought it was fixed. Sad that you have to get back into the issue. As far as the plate size, I would make it as big as you can and then you can try making it smaller and smaller until it gets to the point of not working.

I just have to wonder, and that's why I asked, is if the antenna connection is possibly playing into the problem.

Not to try and sidetrack things, but are you mainly a radio listener ?. The reason I'm asking is on my 68, I have a Pioneer radio under the seat and it's not hard to reach down and turn the volume up or down but I only listen to one radio station. I have installed through the years what they call infra-red repeaters and what you can do with these is get a radio that has a wireless remote, put the radio wherever, add the IR kit, and then you can then turn the volume up or down on the radio with the remote, change channels and such, and depending on the remote maybe do other things like changing the source to a USB input or whatever. The problem though is you will not have a display to see what station you are on, or what track on the CD, and so on.

Jim
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Have an antenna extension coming to test, along with some power filters for the ignition and battery connections. Will try the plate and see if that works. I listen to both radio and MP3s. The relocation 'kit' from Retrosound moves the radio body to somewhere else but the face and knobs remain in the dash. If all else fails, I will put the Long Beach in my 57 Chevy(it still has points ignition) and see what else I can put in the Chevelle


Today 50% of all marriages end in divorce, but 100% of car part deliveries end in happiness.

72 Chevelle Malibu 327/350 Restomod
57 Chevy Bel Air 283/Powerglide
96 Ford Ranger (aka Truck Norris)
 

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1968 Malibu sport coupe, 489 ci. 590 hp 600 tq, RV T-400 Freakshow 3200 stall, 3.73 12 bolt posi
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I wonder if a small sheet of lead would help shield the interference, maybe mounted between the radio and firewall?
 

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I have the same problem with my Retrosound , have tried all kinds of things , chokes , moving the wires to different locations , even dissconnected the tach lead , now what I have done is enclose the hei unit in a heat shield wrap that is supposed to be used on my starter because th headers were pretty close . It seems to work even though I don't like the look but about gone . I still might try to run separate power wires like the above post did jut to see if it works for my install . Just my 2 cents , good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I tried a metal plate behind the distributor and between the heater box and firewall with no joy. Finally gave up for now and went back to my points distributor. Might try to add a Pertronix unit to my stock distributor to get rid of the points, anyone else running a Pertronix unit with a Retrosound radio?


Today 50% of all marriages end in divorce, but 100% of car part deliveries end in happiness.

72 Chevelle Malibu 327/350 Restomod
57 Chevy Bel Air 283/Powerglide
96 Ford Ranger (aka Truck Norris)
 

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I have a Pertonix II in my Cougar with a Custom Autosound radio.
No problems.
I will have some kind of stereo system in my Elky when it's finished.
I have a Pertronix billet distributor in the small block in that vehicle.
The only difference is the coil in the Cougar is mounted much farther from the firewall than the coil for the 350 in the Elky.
Time will tell.
 

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So is the leading theory here that it is EMI (Electromagnetic Interference)? IF so, then you need faraday cage around your radio to keep the noise out (like copper mesh). BUT 98% of us with retrosound radios and HEIs don't have the problem.... so I would lean towards the distributor is the issue. Did you try a power conditioner on the 12V to the distributor? For a problem like this, you almost need an Oscilliscope to start looking at noise on the 12V feeds.

Another idea, 12V relay fed directly from the battery, switched on by ignition power. That should completely isolate the power feed.

In the end, these are all just guesses. This is an intriguing problem, but I would be pulling my hair out if it was my car.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I just got my power filters yesterday and plan to install them when I get a chance. I did run a separate power feed for the distributor, no change in my radio 'performance'. Super frustrating problem without an o-scope to identify noise sources.


Today 50% of all marriages end in divorce, but 100% of car part deliveries end in happiness.

72 Chevelle Malibu 327/350 Restomod
57 Chevy Bel Air 283/Powerglide
96 Ford Ranger (aka Truck Norris)
 
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