I bought a small body HEI from Dave 20 (I"m getting old.) years ago. I had a problem with the car not starting because of a blown fuse. So I bought another coil and thought I might as well replace the module after 2 decades. Problem is I can't remember how it's mounted to the distributor and there isn't much room for me to see. How are they mounted" And do I need to pull the distributor to replace it?
replacing module in smalll body HEI
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just pull the cap and there is 2 (two) screws holding the module to the dist base. Be careful of the plugs as they tend to be brittle after all these yrs.
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Depends on what modification Dave did to the distributor. I believe he was mounting a Ford ignition module to the outside of the distributor and using a Ford pickup inside. I could be totally wrong and this is someone else's modification I am thinking of. It should be easy to see, there is plenty of room. I don't know why you are saying it is hard to see, just remove the air cleaner, climb up on the fender and stick you head back there!
the module bolts run up from the bottom. You'll have to pull the dist. But, if the module is working I wouldn't fool with it. It's likely much higher quality than anything you can buy now. The NAPA TP45 is known good, or was.
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Its probably mounted under the distributor. Not that easy to change without removing the distributor.
He use ford pickupcoil/reluctor same as msd and a GM Hei module.
Picture are on his website or on the net, I found these pictures.
But like Tom said if its working dont change it, if you do use heatsink compound on the backside of the module.
He use ford pickupcoil/reluctor same as msd and a GM Hei module.
Picture are on his website or on the net, I found these pictures.
But like Tom said if its working dont change it, if you do use heatsink compound on the backside of the module.
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Jebchevelle, if you have NO clue as to what you are talking about, please, stay quiet, this is a small-body hei conversion, not a large coil in cap HEI. This is just as irritating as the two other attackers were all the time. LOOK at the picture below.
Tom is right. The distributor should be removed from the engine for module change.
PAY PARTICULAR ATTENTION TO THE WIRE COLOR CODES TO THE LETTERS ON THE HEI MODULE, BETTING THEM WRONG WILL CAUSE TROUBLE.
The distributor should come out of the engine to change the module, and, there are two locating plastic pins cast into the module body on the bottom, simply break them off so they don't hold the module up off the distributor body. The two dowel pins locate the module in the large coil in cap HEI, but, where we mount the module, they are actually "in the way".
B - RED, power input
C - Black (or earlier, Brown)
The other two wires have different width slide on terminals and connectors, don't swap 'em.
Bending the terminals on the module will allow the connectors to fit correctly, use the old module as the guide.
EDIT: September 23, 2021, Modules are mounted either directly to the bottom of the aluminum distributor body, or on cast iron distributors, an adapter plate screwed to the distributor itself. Screws for the module are 3/4 inch long (on the adapter mountings, a touch shorter), 8/32 hex head stainless steel machine screws from local hardware stores. They are the standard right hand threads, clockwise to tighten, counter clockwise to loosen.
The modules are really tough, so are the round, oil filled coils, not much problem with them, I have quite all over the place as old as 35 years, still in service without a misfire, belch, backfire, fart, problem.
![708323]()
Tom is right. The distributor should be removed from the engine for module change.
PAY PARTICULAR ATTENTION TO THE WIRE COLOR CODES TO THE LETTERS ON THE HEI MODULE, BETTING THEM WRONG WILL CAUSE TROUBLE.
The distributor should come out of the engine to change the module, and, there are two locating plastic pins cast into the module body on the bottom, simply break them off so they don't hold the module up off the distributor body. The two dowel pins locate the module in the large coil in cap HEI, but, where we mount the module, they are actually "in the way".
B - RED, power input
C - Black (or earlier, Brown)
The other two wires have different width slide on terminals and connectors, don't swap 'em.
Bending the terminals on the module will allow the connectors to fit correctly, use the old module as the guide.
EDIT: September 23, 2021, Modules are mounted either directly to the bottom of the aluminum distributor body, or on cast iron distributors, an adapter plate screwed to the distributor itself. Screws for the module are 3/4 inch long (on the adapter mountings, a touch shorter), 8/32 hex head stainless steel machine screws from local hardware stores. They are the standard right hand threads, clockwise to tighten, counter clockwise to loosen.
The modules are really tough, so are the round, oil filled coils, not much problem with them, I have quite all over the place as old as 35 years, still in service without a misfire, belch, backfire, fart, problem.
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That is some outstanding work you got there Dave.
As of this date, about what is the waiting period if I sent you a Chevy points distributor to make into a small body HEI ?
First off, there is NO advertising on the boards unless it is in the vendor section. Second, that is the way I do EVERYTHING, as if it were for my own vehicles..
The shop is closed, for how long, I do not know. There is some sort of issue stopping the Docs from getting me in for the new left hip. NO telling how long it will take to get it resolved.
Although I am no longer posting here on this site because of never ending attacks from two very obnoxious troublemakers (I only posted in this topic, because I was mentioned within it), I am still capable of, and continue to help via either direct email, or by telephone, and happy to do so.
By the way, the distributor posted above started as the same one just below, and has been in service, with NO failures, NO problems, since 1982, daily driver. This is the level of the work I do. When this distributor was brought to me for work, the person that was holding it, held it by the wire terminal and wire that connected it to the negative post on the coil, not anywhere else, it was that dirty.
![708399]()
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The shop is closed, for how long, I do not know. There is some sort of issue stopping the Docs from getting me in for the new left hip. NO telling how long it will take to get it resolved.
Although I am no longer posting here on this site because of never ending attacks from two very obnoxious troublemakers (I only posted in this topic, because I was mentioned within it), I am still capable of, and continue to help via either direct email, or by telephone, and happy to do so.
By the way, the distributor posted above started as the same one just below, and has been in service, with NO failures, NO problems, since 1982, daily driver. This is the level of the work I do. When this distributor was brought to me for work, the person that was holding it, held it by the wire terminal and wire that connected it to the negative post on the coil, not anywhere else, it was that dirty.
The strange thing is that it's hooked to the radio fuse in the fuse block. I took it to a shop to install a TKX and told them about the problem. The strange thing is that it's hooked to the radio fuse in the fuse block. They had the same problem and noticed that it blew the fuse when in reverse every time. Saw the reverse lights weren't on and that the reverse light wiring had deteriorated and was shorted out. Thinking back, it blew on me twice when backing into the my garage or when putting the car in reverse to take the key out, or turing the key on with it in reverse. Electrical stuff always confuses me. So that means the old coil is still good too, so I have a spare.
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Dave can you get hip replacement surgery ? I had my right hip done 16 yrs ago and it was like night and day.As soon as the surgery pain subsided I could walk pain free for the 1st time in 6 yrs. It only took a couple of days for the surgical stuff to heal and then I was walking without any walker or a cane.It might be worth your while to look into it.
Now after all this time the other hip is gone.Bone on bone with no cartilage left at all.I'm working on getting the other hip replaced but now I need 3 Drs clearance first.
Now after all this time the other hip is gone.Bone on bone with no cartilage left at all.I'm working on getting the other hip replaced but now I need 3 Drs clearance first.
I already have the best Ortho surgeon in Northern Nevada doing it, when other stuff is done. He is 39, and does with bones, what I do with mechanical stuff, fix it after others make a total mess of it, for the most part. First visit with him was the day before Halloween, last year. He was dressed like Spingoolie on TV, goulish undertaker, top hat, tails. As I was leaving, I said his costume was great, but, why weren't the 6 ladies there behind the counter in Halloween costume???? I got slammed, flat done.... one lady looked right at me, and as calmly as she could be, gave me the evil eye, then said "What makes you think we aren't wearing our Halloween costumes?". Stopped me cold, GREAT answer.
Dr. Dirig has a nice titanium socket and ball insert set up to use already, he just has to size it to fit once he is in there.
I have had a problem with this for over 5 years, the last 3 being progressively worse, and left me non-ambulatory, sitting, laying down, no exercise, no walking for the greatest part. It is osteo-arthritis, 50 years after getting shot in that hip socket in Viet-Nam
Of course, this left me with an increasing belly, added 70 lbs, and caused my A1C to go through the roof. Well, too high an A1C, skin doesn't heal right. Mine was in the 12 range 6 months ago, blood sugar in the 320 range. Two weeks ago, doctor visit, 6.8, blood sugar between 80 and 88 steady, so, I am OK with A1C, no diabetes, just sugar frm fat reduction, but, only lost 35 lbs, still have the area where the incision is done overlapping. Will try to get rid of another 20 or so lbs before January.
Had dental appointment early today, checked with the Ortho Rehab lady, next door to the dentist, she is ready any time I am (we were both on the Mason Valley Swim Pool board of directors for a few years), good rehab lady, terrorist of sorts, Carrie.
Dr. Dirig has a nice titanium socket and ball insert set up to use already, he just has to size it to fit once he is in there.
I have had a problem with this for over 5 years, the last 3 being progressively worse, and left me non-ambulatory, sitting, laying down, no exercise, no walking for the greatest part. It is osteo-arthritis, 50 years after getting shot in that hip socket in Viet-Nam
Of course, this left me with an increasing belly, added 70 lbs, and caused my A1C to go through the roof. Well, too high an A1C, skin doesn't heal right. Mine was in the 12 range 6 months ago, blood sugar in the 320 range. Two weeks ago, doctor visit, 6.8, blood sugar between 80 and 88 steady, so, I am OK with A1C, no diabetes, just sugar frm fat reduction, but, only lost 35 lbs, still have the area where the incision is done overlapping. Will try to get rid of another 20 or so lbs before January.
Had dental appointment early today, checked with the Ortho Rehab lady, next door to the dentist, she is ready any time I am (we were both on the Mason Valley Swim Pool board of directors for a few years), good rehab lady, terrorist of sorts, Carrie.
My brother had one shoulder joint replaced a while back, and more recently, his right hip. He is delighted with his new shoulder, and the hip is still healing but it seems like it's going to be good too. Good luck on yours...
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