[davewho1]

Anyone that has replaced this piece, I need some advice. Mine either needs to be patched or replaced - the part that the windshield rests in is pretty bad.

The forward part with the louver-like bends in it is fine. A friend advised me to cut out the bad part and fabricate the channel. Unfortunately, I have neither the fabrication skills nor the $$ to pay someone to fab the channel and weld it all up.

How many spotwelds are there holding it on, approximately? Is it possible I could use a sharp putty knife and a hammer to cut through the spotwelds?

And, I was wondering if I could glue it on with some of that body glue instead of welding it - is that feasible?

Thanks a lot! :beers:

 

[davewho1]

ttt

 

[Munch69ProTour]

Dave,

You can buy a spot weld cutter for $20 to cut any welds you have with a hand drill. You may need to chisel some off.

The new piece should be welded and seam sealed.

You may be able to get someone local to weld it in for you.

Good luck with your car.

 

[sevt_chevelle]

I certainly would NOT use a chisel of any kind to remove those welds. To remove those spot welds you could use a few things.

1. A cut off wheel with a 3/16 thick grinding disc. Just hold the disc over the spot weld til you see the upper layer ground away. This method is quick, loud throws sparks but pretty safe at not damaging the under laying layer of metal.



2. Special spot weld drill bits. First off forget using regular drill bits they drill holes into the under laying piece of metal, not something you want to do.
This bit is basically like a mill end cutter, has a small point so the bit wont wonder but its flat on the bottom unlike a drill bit. This one is from Kent but Dent Fix, Blair made them as well.



Kent pro-bit 43782
http://www.kent-automotive.com/weba...overs&question=&partnumber=&start=10&count=10

3. Another bit without the pilot bit. There are other spot weld bit that look similar but dont even remotely work as good. Those cheap ones look like a mini hole saw, pure garage. This one is from Blair as well.



Mine is the 11094
http://www.blairequipment.com/Spotweld_Cutters/Spotweld_Cutters.html

 

[sevt_chevelle]

I also wouldn't glue this panel in place.

Making just the channel is easy. With a trip to Home Depot, about 10 bucks, and two pieces of 3/4 thick MDF board you make a hammer form to make this piece.

Make a pattern of the channel from a piece of chip board or some type of somewhat thick strong paper. Then transfer the shape to the MDF and cut the shape out. Now you have the lower half of the hammer form. Now place lower half on the other untouched half and trace the outline but this time deduct about 1in. While the two halves are still in place drill two 1/8 holes on the very outside of the MDF through both pieces, this will be locating holes for the two pieces.

Place the piece of metal on top of the lower hammer form, then place the upper half on top. Use the locator holes for alignment then clamp it tight. Now you can hammer over the metal into the exact shape of the window channel. Pretty darn simple...Eric

 

[davewho1]

Thanks, gentlemen.

Eric, you give me food for thought. I suppose it is simple enough to bend and shape metal if you have done it many times - and you make it sound easy.

For neophytes like me, it's not quite that simple. But, since I'm not totally inept , I think I will at least give it a try.

What gauge is this metal - 18?

Thanks again! :beers:

 

[zombie1969]

Your nuts.:yes:If a repair panel is available why would you want to make your own for nothing else but to be able to say you made it?Granted there are some crappy parts out there but that channel is important in that the trim around the window clips to it and any imperfections will show when its installed.I have fabricated my own before but it was because no replacement was available and it was a ton of work compared to getting the pre made part...Just sayin.

 

[Raven1]

I think Eric is just trying to demonstrate how to make a panel for those who don't know. I make my own parts when required. I actually did purchase that lower repair panel for a '67 GTO. Most of it was toast and it's exposed. I could not financially justify the time to fab that entire piece with all the tabs on it.

 

[zombie1969]

That was directed toward the OP.Looks like he wants to make his own from his last post but states he has no skills.Not saying he cant do it or anything just cant understand why one would want to when a part is available.

 

[TerryAT]

For $35 + shipping, I say "buy". Why waste all the time trying to make it? Its not like its $350.

 

[davewho1]

Your nuts.:yes:

Now THERE'S the pot calling the kettle black. Thanks. :boring:

My original intent was to replace it. Then I was advised to repair it, in the interest of saving as much factory metal as possible, which I am attempting to do. I thought that might be a learning experience, which I am all about.

It would certainly be much easier to replace the whole panel. That's the way I am leaning at this point ... :clonk:

 

[pnugene]

Now THERE'S the pot calling the kettle black. Thanks. :boring:

My original intent was to replace it. Then I was advised to repair it, in the interest of saving as much factory metal as possible, which I am attempting to do. I thought that might be a learning experience, which I am all about.

It would certainly be much easier to replace the whole panel. That's the way I am leaning at this point ... :clonk:

I would also try to save as much original metal as possible. Why not buy the patch panel, and only use portions of it where you need it most? Cut out your rotted metal first, then cut replacements from the new panel slightly larger than needed, then use a die grinder to trim for a perfect fit. Butt-weld the new metal in with a MIG.

 

[zombie1969]

I can understand that kind-of..Ive done it before and it sucked so just letting you know from what Ive already learned its just easier and the quality of work after is better when you replace it....Do what you want its your car.

 

[davewho1]

I would also try to save as much original metal as possible. Why not buy the patch panel, and only use portions of it where you need it most? Cut out your rotted metal first, then cut replacements from the new panel slightly larger than needed, then use a die grinder to trim for a perfect fit. Butt-weld the new metal in with a MIG.

That's most likely what I'm gonna do, Randy. Thanks.

 

[Raven1]

I would also try to save as much original metal as possible. Why not buy the patch panel, and only use portions of it where you need it most? Cut out your rotted metal first, then cut replacements from the new panel slightly larger than needed, then use a die grinder to trim for a perfect fit. Butt-weld the new metal in with a MIG.

That's most likely what I'm gonna do, Randy. Thanks.

I'd bet if you sanblasted that, which is the best way to execute the job, there would be little left of that channel valley. If that's the case you think it's best to cut that out at the top apex and weld it long that entire butt weld? I would not do that. A couple easily made patches in one thing, approaching 50% or more of that tiny panel is another.

And if you do cut out many areas good luck welding to the thin rotted metal with your limited experience. You'll be blowing holes left and right. I try to save original panels as much as possible as well. But after a couple decades in the business I know when it's not worth it. This is just one reason why buying a car is so difficult. Many cars are only worth 50% of their asking price because of the poor quality of work that lies inder the paint.

If your side glass is still in, unprotected and you start grinding and welding, get your checkbook out. The sparks produced by both will ruin it. People like to do that for some reason.

 

[davewho1]

Thanks, Scott.

I will get the new piece and evaluate the best plan of attack from there. Making sure all rust is eradicated is the goal here.

 

[sevt_chevelle]

I don't know crap about the 66-67 chevelle and how much that repair panel covers. But, if that panel is complete and would go to factory seems all around then I would replace the entire piece.

That way there is no huge seem to weld shut just a bunch of spot welds to make.

Plus you KNOW what is hidden under that panel, could be more rust you can't see.

Often times what seems like the longest road is the shortest path...Eric

 

[oldtimeparts]

I replaced mine last year, bit of a bi*ch getting out, just take your time. Also think about welding in the studs before installing the window channel.
There are two lower windshield channels available, One that is U.S. made and the other is cheap offshore *****, BUY U.S. MADE

 

[davewho1]

Thanks, guys. I have to know what's under there; and the only way to know for sure that I can see is to remove the panel.

I will buy a U.S. made panel, no doubt. Don't want any Chinese crap on my car if I can help it.

 

[136679ss]

Dave I did mine a few years ago, not a pro by any stretch of the imagination; but That piece was one of the easiest on the car to replace. Wish I could find my pics to guide you, but doubt their still on an sd card. That said, if you have a grinder, drill, mig welder your golden. Like was said; take your time evaluate everything 4 times and have at it. I even used the crap overseas version and it came out perfect. I had to replace the dash on mine as well with one I bought from Sloan's out in CA. You can do it too, we have faith in you.