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J

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Discussion Starter #1
Is it difficult to replace the yoke seal. Am I correct in recalling that they are similar to rear trans seals.
Do I just remove the drive shaft, the nut holding the yoke (with an impact gun), then remove the yoke and to remove the seal use a screwdriver to pry it out (or use vise grips to pull out the seal)?
Car is a 69 chevelle with a 12 bolt posi.
Thanks in advance for your help,
John
 

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That's exactly how it's done! Expect to have a small amount of fluid loss, so catch it with a pan. Replace any fluid after you're done.

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Gregg Haskin
72 Chevelle SS
ZZ502 Crated RAT
Muncie M-20 4 speed
TEAM CHEVELLE #726 ACES #4486
"PROUD TO BE AN AMERICAN!"
“What the heck are all these extra nuts & bolts for?”

My 72 Chevelle SS Restoration Website: www.wcvt.com/~ghaskin
 

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I'm going to have to disagree. As soon as you remove that pinion nut you lose your bearing preload setting. There is a school that claims you can mark the nut and yoke so that the nut goes back on EXACTLY where it came off from, or it's a new crush sleeve and reset your preload. Heck, you wanted steeper gears anyhow....

Cam
 

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I normally try to do all my own work, but the pinion seal scared me a little for the reasons stated by Cam. I took it to a shop, they only charged me $50. I figured the $50 was a good tradeoff for the possibility tearing up a rearend.

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Mike Newby

69 Chevelle 355/TH200-4R
97 Grand Prix GTP
64 Chevy C10 Pickup
79 Suzuki GS550
 
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Cam is right about the touchy area of pre-load. You are always better off using a new crush sleeve and resetting the pre-load. It takes a preety good impact set-up to crush those dudes anyway,,,for a few bucks your better off on having a reputable shop handle it. Been there done that....Just my .02 worth!

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J

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Discussion Starter #6
I wasn't aware the yoke had anything to do with preload (rear gear adjustment?). I wanted to do this myself but if preload is a strong concern, as it sounds, then I have to find another mechanic. The one that had replaced the seal last summer told me that the reason the seal is leaking is because the yoke had a wear grove in it and to replace it and the seal was a big job - cost $300.
I had considered having the seal and the 4:11 gears replaced but after some more thought I decided I like these gears.
If I put paint on the threads before removing the nut (to use as a guide when replacing the nut) will that be enough of a guide to put the nut back exactly where it was?

Thanks for all your good info.
 

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John the yoke is an integral part of the preload process. The nut you are tightening is being tightened against the yoke. The best way to reuse the crush spacer that is on the pinion now is to "stake" the nut and the yoke with a chisel mark such that as you tighten the nut up the marks line up as the nut is fully tightened. The trick here is to get the marks lined up and go NO further. This will put the preload back where it was when you initially loosened the nut.


There is no need to be afraid of this job. Just take your time and do it correctly. Bear in mind the marks are critical. Make them such that they are clear and easy to line up.


Incidently this method negates the need to check preload when you are done. Basically you are accepting what you get when you get it. Good luck


Obviously if you have already loosened the nut then you cannot use this method because your initial reference point is already gone.

[This message has been edited by charbilly2001 (edited 03-21-2002).]
 

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To be fair to Gregg and Charbilly, though, lots of people do it that way. I just wasn't comfortable with it.

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Mike Newby

69 Chevelle 355/TH200-4R
97 Grand Prix GTP
64 Chevy C10 Pickup
79 Suzuki GS550

[This message has been edited by Georgia69 (edited 03-21-2002).]
 

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Once again, have to agree with Charbilly. Denny www.dennysdriveshaft.com instructed me to do same as Charbilly points out in replacing rear yoke for larger 1350 size. It will be hard to get your marks back in line unless you have a LARGE extension on your breaker bar. Its defintely a Schwartzenegger move.

Edit: if you loosened your nut already, there is a reasonable chance that if you tighten it back up as far as your muscles will allow with a large ext on your breaker bar, you might get real, real close to the original setting.

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Gene
Gold Member 62/ACES 3112
67 SS 427

[This message has been edited by 427L88 (edited 03-21-2002).]
 
J

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for the good advise. I will take your advise and mark the nut and yoke as one but will also mark the yoke against the rear to help indicate yoke position. As it nears original position I will watch for the mark alignment of the nut to yoke.

Thanks again!
 

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Sounds Mickey Mouse to me. But to each he's own.
just think if you don't get it right, you'll end up spending more money in the long run.

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some pics http://community.webshots.com/album/12590431pqkzKyilTC
 

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Be sure to mark the nut and pinion stem with a chisel or punch. Paint, felt tip, etc., can come off and then you're screwed. I have some old (70's) Pontiac Service manuals that say to tighten the nut to the location it was before PLUS an additional 1/32" past that to ensure the crush sleeve is loaded enough. The purpose of the crush sleeve is to pre-load the front pinion bearing inner race to keep it from spinning on the pinion. Also the nut position helps ensure the proper pre-load is on the front and rear pinion bearings. In the ideal world a small scale inch-pound torque wrench is used to check pinion rotating resistance to set the proper pre-load.

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von '69 300 Dlx SS TC #15 ACES #1575
My '69 SS
 

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Have we not overlooked the reason(s) the seal failed? Maybe because of old age and wear, and maybe because of a grooved surface on the yoke. If his mechanic was right about the groove, then what's the use in putting a new seal on it? If a new yoke is needed, will it be exactly the same length as the old one?

My $0.02

[This message has been edited by JJ'65 (edited 03-21-2002).]
 

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Hey fellas 25ftlbs on a new crush collarbearing preload and 15ftlbs on a used set up.
Get a torque wrench and do it yourself..
It's that easy... Just did this last week and now have 2 more buddies wanting thier seals replaced.
 

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<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by RandyB:
Hey fellas 25ftlbs on a new crush collarbearing preload and 15ftlbs on a used set up.
Get a torque wrench and do it yourself..
It's that easy... Just did this last week and now have 2 more buddies wanting thier seals replaced.
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

No disrespect intended Randy but you may also have two buddys that want you to replace their gears after a couple of thousand miles. I just did a gear change and after getting advice here, I decided to have it done by a pro. From what I understand, the preload is extremly important. We do a lot of dirt racing and I have seen incorrectly installed gears so sharp you could shave with them. I just don't think it is worth taking the chance.
 

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No disrespect here either. But a good mechanic can tell the difference between doing it correctly, and doing it with both eyes shut.
I've known this to be done quit a few times.
I learned this from a friend that does rock crawling in his 327 powered jeep for sport. He sets up rears all the time. Since I like to get extra opinions, I checked with a guy that's done his share of car building for 40 years, that also happens to be a certified deisel mechanic for the past 30 years. I don't tread down new areas at full speed until I know for sure that what I'm doing will work. Now if someone is in doubt about doing something, this is the difference between being able to do it, and thinking they can do it. I don't give advice until I know it's correct advice. Marking the pinion nut and resetting the preload will work in a pinch, but not the best way to go about it. Why not use a torque wrench and know for sure. Even Richmond gear instructions tells you how to reset preload with a used crush sleeve. I don't mean to sound nasty in my reply. I give my info free, and correct. I don't like learning the hard and expensive way. If someone wants to learn from previous lessons and save some cash why not. But if they're still unsure, they might just want to let a shop do the work.

RandyB..
 

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I think you mean 25 and 15 INCH pounds. A big difference from foot pounds.

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von '69 300 Dlx SS TC #15 ACES #1575
My '69 SS
 

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You people are making a mountain out of a mole hill.

I just changed my pinion seal and pinion yoke and followed the install advice of Denny from Denny's driveshaft. It a real simple procedure and the pinion preload is easy to re-establish. I do not subscribe to the marking the nut method as you should really be installing a new nut anyway. Also, if you change the yoke, it's a good chance the new one might not be exactly the same thickness where it bolts to the pinion which will change the preload if you marked the nut.

Here's the method I find works fine. Take your old yoke off and replace the seal. Make sure you pack the seal groove with axle bearing grease. According to Denny, most seals leak because they were installed with oil which is not enough to protect the seal. Next install the yoke and nut using locktite on the threads. Hold the yoke with what ever tool you use (I made a tool that bolts to the yoke with a 30" long handle) and tighten the nut by hand with a 1/2" ratchet. It's near impossible to crush the sleeve with a hand ratchet, so once your ratchet stops turning, your done.

There's no need to disassemble the rear to reset the pinion preload IMO. I've seen many racers install used gears and as long as the mechanic setting up the gears can get them set up as they were originally, they will last just fine.

I do feel if you question your mechanical skills or ability, then take it to a professional.

[This message has been edited by 10secBu (edited 03-22-2002).]
 

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I just asked my brother this question since I just bought a leaky 12 bolt that needs the seal replaced and he gave me the mark the nut answer, but he also gave me the reason that most of them leak and a remedy. He says most chevy rearends will have a groove in the yoke of some sort and that if you use a speedy sleeve with the new seal that it may correct the problem..... I'm thinking that could have saved someone $300
 
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