[03cts sport]

I have a '66 that is pretty much original under the hood. At the point now where my rad should be replaced. My question is...would you go with a black re-pro, or a more efficient aluminum (ie Be Cool)? The less efficient re-pro seem to cost more money than the aluminums...
thx in advance

 

[Rich-L79]

Why not have your original radiator recored?

 

[suprfreac]

If you don't care about it being the original radiator, I would recommend an Alumitech. I just got mine yesterday and it is a beautiful piece. It's an exact, direct replacement and it is supposed to cool 30% better than a copper/brass model. Lots of people on this board have them and I have only read positive reviews. Many people just paint it black to look original, but I'm keeping mine shiny

 

[03cts sport]

If you don't care about it being the original radiator, I would recommend an Alumitech. I just got mine yesterday and it is a beautiful piece. It's an exact, direct replacement and it is supposed to cool 30% better than a copper/brass model. Lots of people on this board have them and I have only read positive reviews. Many people just paint it black to look original, but I'm keeping mine shiny

Thx for the feedback all. (These rads aren't cheap...)

Any thoughts on the following link?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1966...torsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#shId

 

[davewho1]

I just got my original recored/restored. Came out nice and works well. Cost me over $400 and that hurt a little, but now I think it was worth it. :thumbsup:

 

[johncolvin]

Any thoughts on the following link?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1966-1967-CHEVELLE-REPRODUCTION-ALUMINUM-RADIATOR_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem35a2f9b618QQitemZ230367540760QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#shId

I got one of these from Tom's for my LS1 project. It cools great and I have not had any issues. The welds look good, but the fins are a little delicate, so you should be careful when installing it. I was suprised how hot (to the touch) this radiator would get over the stock unit when at normal operating temp. It was almost a direct bolt in, I needed to drill the lower holes on the radiator to meet up with the factory locations. Maybe it was bad luck - but I'm happy with it :thumbsup:

 

[03cts sport]

I got one of these from Tom's for my LS1 project. It cools great and I have not had any issues. The welds look good, but the fins are a little delicate, so you should be careful when installing it. I was suprised how hot (to the touch) this radiator would get over the stock unit when at normal operating temp. It was almost a direct bolt in, I needed to drill the lower holes on the radiator to meet up with the factory locations. Maybe it was bad luck - but I'm happy with it :thumbsup:

Thx John. I think I'll go this route. (Did you paint yours?)

 

[SWHEATON]

Geoff,dont forget to check out the Alumitech AL rad site before you decide on a rad because it's very well built,fits well,works well,and looks close to stock too.

Scott

 

[Chris_69_SS]

The original will keep your car cool so why bother gettinbg an aluminum? Unless you want a shiny rad? To me, aluminum rads are for race cars.... Stock is the way to rock!

 

[johncolvin]

Thx John. I think I'll go this route. (Did you paint yours?)

I did not yet. I kind of like it nice and shiny

 

[72sbc427]

Stock is the way to rock?

I guess some people do still use 8 tracks and polyglass tires too. Of coarse the freeway speeds were not 75mph and 3hour drives in constant stop n go traffic were not an issue back then either. There are still some remaining dried up water wells along the freeways between Arizona and California from when cars used to constantly overheat.

 

[robo3]

if you paint it use radiator specific paint ! regular paint will stop the heat disipation !

 

[03cts sport]

thx for all the great feedback Folks! (Also picked up a 7 blade, non-clutch fan from an old Chevy pickup. Scraped her down, and just finished painting it. I look forward to seeing the impact of it being installed.)

 

[JJ'65]

I have a '66 that is pretty much original under the hood. At the point now where my rad should be replaced. My question is...would you go with a black re-pro, or a more efficient aluminum (ie Be Cool)? The less efficient re-pro seem to cost more money than the aluminums...
thx in advance

Hmmm...How much is "pretty much"? Most original is recore the original radiator. Do you need a show radiator or a trophy radiator (with "bragging rights") or maybe just a radiator that keeps your coolant temperatures within limits in the service you put your engine to?

A $500 radiator that does the job is no more "efficient" than a $179 radiator that does the job, in my opinion. Stores are full of radiators less than $200 that will do the job. Might lose you a little status Friday nights at the root beer stand though, if you confess "I got it for $149 at Pep Boys..."

Specific answer to your question: the cheaper of the two.

Just my $0.02

 

[JJ'65]

thx for all the great feedback Folks! (Also picked up a 7 blade, non-clutch fan from an old Chevy pickup. Scraped her down, and just finished painting it. I look forward to seeing the impact of it being installed.)

You'll love the noise too! Used to be a guy down the street had an old LandCruiser; could hear his fan coming a block away...

 

[1966_L78]

Geoff,dont forget to check out the Alumitech AL rad site before you decide on a rad because it's very well built,fits well,works well,and looks close to stock too.

Scott

I tend to disagree... Most of Don's stuff looks "okay", but I think his '66/67 BB radiator doesn't look close enough, IMO... Since the 66/67 upper tanks are very visible (no cover plate like 68+), that upper tank just sticks out like a sore thumb... of course, having owned alot of '66s, I tend to see the differences more... I can see the "Harrison" licensing issue, but the upper tank is still pretty far off in contours and shape...

Otherwise, they are supposed to be a good quality product that fits as intended...