[nialriver]

Hello, I graduated HS in 1970. First car was '66 442, ran around with '69 Z28, '70 GTX, '70 Chevelle SS, couple of 340 Dusters, etc. Retired and wanted to get back to the old days: best cars, best music. I've attached the write-up of the car and a photo of it coming off the truck. Now to make it mine.

Question, if I may - previous owner says he runs Pennzoil 10w-30 and premium pump gas; sound right?

 

[billdini]

Hello, I graduated HS in 1970. First car was '66 442, ran around with '69 Z28, '70 GTX, '70 Chevelle SS, couple of 340 Dusters, etc. Retired and wanted to get back to the old days: best cars, best music. I've attached the write-up of the car and a photo of it coming off the truck. Now to make it mine.

Question, if I may - previous owner says he runs Pennzoil 10w-30 and premium pump gas; sound right?

Welcome, I graduated in 72, owned a L48 Chevelle back then but my buddy had a 70 GTX that we cruised in all the time. Well maybe racing more then cruising! I really loved that GTX, triple black, 440 with that air grabber hood. I remember going to school and a 70 W30 pulled next to him. Well of course they went and were neck to neck to at least 100.

 

[vortec710]

Oil and fuel choice sounds right, if description is correct, sounds like a nice car, A/C would not have been available on a 70 or 71 LS-6 from the factory (solid lifters) but OK with a LS-5 option...but no big deal unless you are a numbers person......if you like it,... buy it,...drive it...and enjoy it.

 

[blue_69_malibu]

I'd think about running Valvoline VR-1 10W-30.....but others may disagree.

 

[Leadhead]

Welcome! Awesome car! I ran Pennzoil for many years in my 396. Never had a problem, but I'm sure there are better ones out there. Enjoy reliving your youth!

 

[Slick87gn]

Congrats, beautiful.

 

[boyd66k20]

I'd think about running Valvoline VR-1 10W-30.....but others may disagree.

Yep definitely. Flat tappet =high zinc/phosphorus motor oil. 10-30 VR1-silver bottle. No additives. Maxima makes a good oil for this as well. Google it.

 

[SS396NY]

Yep definitely. Flat tappet =high zinc/phosphorus motor oil. 10-30 VR1-silver bottle. No additives. Maxima makes a good oil for this as well. Google it.

Yep definitely. Flat tappet =high zinc/phosphorus motor oil. 10-30 VR1-silver bottle. No additives. Maxima makes a good oil for this as well. Google it.

Nice car. A related oil question. When I had my 70 396 rebuilt (1989), the machine shop said to use 20W50 racing oil for better wear protection. The engine is nothing crazy - normal rebuild, port/polish, crane high intensity lifters/flat tappet, high lift rocker arms. mild cam upgrade. Nothing roller inside. Since then, I have always used either 20W50 (and with zinc additive lately) or 15W40 Diesel oil with high zinc. I see most people using 10W30. Is that a better choice - any concerns with 20W50? I live in NY and only drive car in summer.

 

[Dean]

Welcome aboard nialriver
I graduated HS in 1956 and had a 41 Plymouth Business coupe that I used 10 cent "dime slime" in.

Long story but one of the older guys had a very nice 40 Mercury convertible and after he committed suicided by jumping off of the old stone arch bridge in Kansas City and the Mercury had passed through four or five other owners I bought it for $75.00

It had a front fender that had been wrecked and beat out with a ball peen hammer but otherwise it was still pretty nice.

The motor used so much oil that if you were following it you couldn't see it for the smoke screen and it would never start by the starter so I had to park it on a grade to clutch start it.

I carried a five gallon can of used oil in the trunk so anytime I went somewhere I had to pour oil into it before going and pour more in to get back.

I only kept it for about three weeks then sold it for $50.00 and for the first three days of that, my buds and I worked trying to get a rounded off bolt out of the center of one of the water pumps to put a new one on.

Not sure if that was the good old years or not but I did have fun with the old Mercury even though it took three quarts of oil to get it down town to the unemployment office and three more to get it back home.

 

[boyd66k20]

Nice car. A related oil question. When I had my 70 396 rebuilt (1989), the machine shop said to use 20W50 racing oil for better wear protection. The engine is nothing crazy - normal rebuild, port/polish, crane high intensity lifters/flat tappet, high lift rocker arms. mild cam upgrade. Nothing roller inside. Since then, I have always used either 20W50 (and with zinc additive lately) or 15W40 Diesel oil with high zinc. I see most people using 10W30. Is that a better choice - any concerns with 20W50? I live in NY and only drive car in summer.

I'm no expert, but from the research I read up on, the 10-30 gets around quicker on start ups where most wear occurs. The 20-50 was always kind of thought of as heavier is better . My opinion on that is it's kind of old school thinking although some may say it has to do with bearing clearances. Google 540 Rat on oils and their viscosities. It's a long read but informative and then you will be able to make a decision based on what you think is best. My 396 was always a 20-50 motor and after reading up I went to the 10-30 and I don't hear the valve train on start up any more. Even though the VR1 is called racing oil, the silver bottle is used on our Flat Tappet cars on a regular basis and gets changed out yearly in my case. The black bottle is serious racing oil. Think the silver bottle its about 1200 ppm zinc and 1400 ppm phosphorus. No additives needed as their blend is good the way it is. It just messes with what's already good. A lot of folk on this site use it. Amazon offers up deals on it every once and awhile. My car is only driven in warmer temps as well here in Colorado. It took awhile for me to get past the thinking that heavier is better in my situation. Mine too was rebuilt in the late 80's and they recommended I use 20-50 as well, for whatever that's worth.

 

[vortec710]

IMHO...newer motors using lower viscosity oils to minimize “start up” wear and because newer motors are subject to MUCH more precise machining and tolerances than older motors when built + improved metallurgy of parts like rings, bearings, pistons, etc. Lighter oils reach moving parts sooner, especially in lower temps or on long standing vehicles. Some of us still remember when a motor had to be rebuilt (rings, valve & carbon jobs, etc) in the 40-60,000 mile range, and it was unheard of for an original motor to go 100,000 miles. Higher viscosity oils are perceived to offer additional protection in “clearanced” performance motors...BUT, note what weight oils are currently used and recommended in factory hi-po motors, especially in those with super chargers and turbos. It has been stated previously that the majority of wear in automotive engines occurs during initial start up. FWIW.

 

[Capt Casey]

Welcome!
That 70 looks great! more pics when you can!

 

[shovelrick]

I used 20w50 in older worn engines to get oil psi back up on the gauge, anything with a flat tappet cam that I own gets oil with a good wear protection (High Zinc), my new roller engine has 10w30 VR1 in now but like already said Maxima sounds like a very good oil after I read the info on their website

 

[MikeN]

I don't think any new cars specified 20w-50 back in the day. Most were 10w-40 or 10w-30. In your shoes I'd stick with the 10w-30.

 

[Freddy Mercado]

Welcome to the site.