Reconditioning blower switch...
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Dialectric
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I was putting the switch back together when I started this post which was supposed to be about rebuilding a blower switch. If you have a '69 Chevelle with AC, you know that the blower switches are not available new. (Note: I have seen one listed by Classic Auto Air but it doesn't appear to have the correct wire connector.) So, I decided to try to fix what I had.
It starts with slightly bending 3 tabs that hold the back on to the switch.
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Once those are removed, carefully remove the back noting the orientation of the brass slider. It is this brass slider that was the problem.
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Through prolonged use, the arching had created a divot that kept it from making full contact with the rivets that hold the wire prongs on the back.
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I laid the slider on a very flat surface and took the drift, using as little pressure as I could to try to flatten it. It was like block sanding a body when I kept rubbing it on emery cloth to see when it finally removed the divot.
Lubed it up and reassembled. All in all not a hard job and very rewarding. There are two of these NOS switches on eBay right now for $115 each.
It starts with slightly bending 3 tabs that hold the back on to the switch.
Once those are removed, carefully remove the back noting the orientation of the brass slider. It is this brass slider that was the problem.
Through prolonged use, the arching had created a divot that kept it from making full contact with the rivets that hold the wire prongs on the back.
I laid the slider on a very flat surface and took the drift, using as little pressure as I could to try to flatten it. It was like block sanding a body when I kept rubbing it on emery cloth to see when it finally removed the divot.
Lubed it up and reassembled. All in all not a hard job and very rewarding. There are two of these NOS switches on eBay right now for $115 each.
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Alan watching you do this is giving me withdrawal.........well maybe just a tiny little bit. 
Looking great! :thumbsup:
Looking great! :thumbsup:
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I know it may be too late, but the answer is "neither". Use this stuff, Sears carries it- http://www.plews-edelmann.com/greases-and-oils/
EDIT: Crap! The link doesn't go to the product. Go to "Specialty Greases", click on #11755 Electrical Contact Grease.
BillL
couple years ago I completely rebuilt the A/C on a 69, could not find that switch anywhere. Fortunately the original was still working. I looked all over the place, that is an oddball switch. Thanks for taking the time to post about this.
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It might be a bit too late, but here's my 2.5 cents
If you have that all apart yet, and are good at precision soldering, it probably wouldn't hurt to solder those rivet connections. Rivets are notorious for causing resistance in electrical connections. They may be tight, but oxidation gets between the rivet and the connector and "track" surfaces. Resistance builds, and so does heat, and you get a voltage drop which causes more heat.
Soldering the rivet to the mating surfaces on both sides would ensure a good "bond". Now if you aren't comfortable with this, don't attempt it as it's already been stated new '69 fan switches don't exactly grow on trees.
The real situation is the poor GM design of simply having a small switch, switch too much current.
Here's some related posts I have information in:
http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=482913
(fan blower switch design flaws)
http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=478345
("greasing" and cleaning electrical parts)
:beers:
If you have that all apart yet, and are good at precision soldering, it probably wouldn't hurt to solder those rivet connections. Rivets are notorious for causing resistance in electrical connections. They may be tight, but oxidation gets between the rivet and the connector and "track" surfaces. Resistance builds, and so does heat, and you get a voltage drop which causes more heat.
Soldering the rivet to the mating surfaces on both sides would ensure a good "bond". Now if you aren't comfortable with this, don't attempt it as it's already been stated new '69 fan switches don't exactly grow on trees.
The real situation is the poor GM design of simply having a small switch, switch too much current.
Here's some related posts I have information in:
http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=482913
(fan blower switch design flaws)
http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=478345
("greasing" and cleaning electrical parts)
:beers:
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I've done the solder the rivets thing. It seemed to me that the amount of heat required made the insulating board get really brittle...even with my carefully tinned tip on my nice solder station, and even with aggressive cleaning and fluxing of the parts - and yes, I've been soldering for nigh to forty five years...I know how it works.
I've toyed with the idea of building a solid state plug in replacement control module, that takes the load off the switch, but allows one to keep the stock switch in place.
Guess if I had a 69, I would get on with it, but I'm being lazy because my 66 switch is still available...
I've toyed with the idea of building a solid state plug in replacement control module, that takes the load off the switch, but allows one to keep the stock switch in place.
Guess if I had a 69, I would get on with it, but I'm being lazy because my 66 switch is still available...
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Agree 100% There needs to be ONE link for stickies in this section and all related stickies accessed under that one link. One more click but it would really clean up this page. Sucks having to scroll 1/2 was down the page to see the new stuff. :thumbsup:
As far as that goes, they could even divide up the navigation further under that ONE link to have child links pertaining to switches, harness, blowers, radios, etc….
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