[Lcarter114]

Some marginal advice here.....as no one asked the OP what his budget is. There is absolutely no reason that the OP has to do a frame off....or anything close to it. Personally, I'd walk away from any shop that suggests that as they are clearly trying to line their own pockets at your expense.

We need more pictures.....but I assume that car hasn't seen an Ohio winter in decades. I suspect the car is in better shape than most cars that need a frame off. More pics will help. And if you can just get it running, just do so and enjoy it.

There is a nice Chevelle show the first week in August up in Strongsville, OH. It's probably 2.5 to 3.0 hours from where you are at, right off I-71. Lots of smart Chevelle folks are there every year.

I make my way into your neck of the woods a few times every year and am happy to meet up some time......to offer my two cents.

I bet this car needs some minor TLC and can be enjoyed As Is. I also bet this car does NOT need a frame off....although I reserve the right to change my mind after seeing pictures.

But don't be the idiot who spends 150K on a 75K car.

Budget is a hard one to determine. We are trying to determine exactly what needs to be done and set a budget accordingly. There are certain things we want fixed and we want the car painted. I really do not want to do a frame off however if that is what is necessary to make the car right that is how we will proceed. This was our first shop. I want to talk to a few more and get their input. As far as the frame, to me it looks pretty solid but it does have surface rust.
I will have to try to make way up to the Chevelle show this year, I didn't even know they had it. If you happen to be in the area and want to check the car out, drop me a line, I am always happy for input.

Thanks

 

[Lcarter114]

I'm going to double down on the no need for a frame off here....upon reflecting for ten more minutes.
Old cars in Ohio that are really beat up and rusty have extensive rust around all four wheel wells, especially the two on the driver side. Rust also shows up around the front and back windows.
You likely just need floor pans, especially if the frame is in good shape. You can likely patch that fender. I don't think your car is that rough....by a long shot.
You or your family have had the car for a LONG time. If rust was a massive problem, you'd notice it by now.
Don't be so quick to start body work and even painting, IMHO.

I totally understand where you are coming from and I really hope there is no more rust. The car was repainted 40 years ago but I wasn't impressed by the quality of the work. We want to stop the rust but also want to paint the car so it would be nice for local car shows. Some little brat put his fair share of scratches on it with the bicycle back in the day. I won't mention any names...lol

 

[blue_69_malibu]

Remember, there's a big difference between a paint job and a frame off.....especially on your wallet.

Unfortunately, when many local paint and body shop places see that you're bringing in an original 1970 SS with an L78, you'll actually see the dollar signs start churning in the back of their minds.
They'll act like this is their one shot to be on a reality show with Boyd Coddington....or something to that effect.
Best thing to do is deal with a shop that someone else that you know did....and were treated well and charged accordingly.

On a different note, don't deck the block when it comes time to rebuild the motor....unless you have no other choice. You don't want the factory matching numbers to be damaged.

You may also want to resurface the factory solid lifters....and maybe start keeping an eye out for a NOS factory L78 Cam. With a factory solid lifter cam, I would NOT convert to roller cam and lifters. (FWIW, I think Crane made a replacement for that cam....which I wouldn't hesitate to use.)

Another option would be to have a 427 or 454 built so that you can keep the original out of the car and guarantee you won't damage it. Personally, I'd build the motor to factory spec or better (maybe some head work) and just enjoying revving that motor on those long, flat stretches of country road where you live.

 

[blm]

A paint job on your car will be $15K-$20K. Probably leaning towards the upper end as there will be body repairs. If you see bubbles there will be rust and possibly not limited to the areas that are evident.
I’m not saying to do a frame off when one is not needed however if you are going for a complete repaint with some rust repair you are most of the way to a frame off anyway. You will never go back and fully correct surface rust on your frame after the car has been repainted. IF you are going to correct frame surface rust the time to do it is when the car is being repainted. Also when the body is off the frame that is the time to address some other items as well such as body bushings, suspension bushings, worn brake lines, worn fuel line, suspension components, etc. Not saying all those will need replaced but if they are all original they probably need replaced and frame off is the time to do it.
As far as the oil leak you could nail down the source with fluorescent dye added to the oil and then using a black light. If it is the rear main seal the engine will need removed to repair that.
Dave Birdwell has not been repainting/restoring Chevelles since 2017. Last I heard he took a full time job as a body man and didn’t want big jobs any longer. He rarely looks in at Team Chevelle. Haven’t even seen him at the Northern Ohio Chevelle Show for 5 years so don’t know what he is doing these days.

 

[123pugsy]

How are these cars for body mount areas on the frame in the north east rust belt?

 

[hydro462]

Off topic

 

[hydro462]

Off topic

 

[blue_69_malibu]

We have a QJet expert in Mt. Vernon, OH? That's good to know.......

 

[Lcarter114]

Remember, there's a big difference between a paint job and a frame off.....especially on your wallet.

Unfortunately, when many local paint and body shop places see that you're bringing in an original 1970 SS with an L78, you'll actually see the dollar signs start churning in the back of their minds.
They'll act like this is their one shot to be on a reality show with Boyd Coddington....or something to that effect.
Best thing to do is deal with a shop that someone else that you know did....and were treated well and charged accordingly. You are right about finding a shop. I am having a hard time finding anyone that has been personally recommended.

On a different note, don't deck the block when it comes time to rebuild the motor....unless you have no other choice. You don't want the factory matching numbers to be damaged.

You may also want to resurface the factory solid lifters....and maybe start keeping an eye out for a NOS factory L78 Cam. With a factory solid lifter cam, I would NOT convert to roller cam and lifters. (FWIW, I think Crane made a replacement for that cam....which I wouldn't hesitate to use.)

Another option would be to have a 427 or 454 built so that you can keep the original out of the car and guarantee you won't damage it. Personally, I'd build the motor to factory spec or better (maybe some head work) and just enjoying revving that motor on those long, flat stretches of country road where you live.

Absolutely, I am on the same page there wanting to keep everything as original as possible. If all the internals are in good shape I don't want to change anything, but if the motor is out now would be the time to check everything.

 

[Lcarter114]

You will have much more fun if you dont throw a pile of money at it. Perfect cars are a pain in the a$$. You worry about scratches and people toucking them.

Just clean it up. Get a pwer washer and clean the frame and chassie off then spray it down with Lanloin rust proofing and spray grease. Dont get any grease on rubber. Grease is one of the best rust prevention chemicals.

I know a paint job will be a pain afterwards, but it was on Dad's bucket list to be able to show the car. I don't think he expected it to be a concourse car but it does need a paint job to show. So for me a paint job is a must.

 

[blm]

I would pick up a stock 454 low compression truck motor that runs on 87 octane.

He has a numbers matching L78. Why would he want a low compression truck motor? Guess you missed the part about wanting to keep it as original as possible.

 

[123pugsy]

OP, don't forget about the block decking. As mentioned above, watch out for schmucks that will tell you they'll work around the numbers and end up they'll be shaved off when you pick it up.

 

[BlueSS454]

I would take this to Rick Nelson
© MuscleCar Restoration and Design, Inc.
He is a member here and a very very trustworthy guy. They are probably the foremost renowned 70 Chevelle shop in the country.
The next guy i can think of close to you is Dave Birdwell but I havent heard if he is still in the resto game.
A car like your dads is worth the $$ for a top tier restoration. Please dont get caught up by any local bodyshops claiming they can do just as good, many will replace/throw parts away and replace them with inferior Chinese catalog pieces that will devalue a rare desirable like you have.. They wont do this intentionally but because they are simply parts replacers and do not understand.

Rick is retiring and not taking on anymore work. Dave Birdwell closed up his shop 7 years ago and has been working for an independent collision shop.
Chris White is one of the top 1970 Chevelle guys in the country. I do them as well but I'm not currently accepting any more work as I'm booked at least 3 years out.

 

[Lcarter114]

Rick is retiring and not taking on anymore work. Dave Birdwell closed up his shop 7 years ago and has been working for an independent collision shop.
Chris White is one of the top 1970 Chevelle guys in the country. I do them as well but I'm not currently accepting any more work as I'm booked at least 3 years out.

Rick is retiring and not taking on anymore work. Dave Birdwell closed up his shop 7 years ago and has been working for an independent collision shop.
Chris White is one of the top 1970 Chevelle guys in the country. I do them as well but I'm not currently accepting any more work as I'm booked at least 3 years out.

Thanks for the update. Would anyone have any information on Crusin Classics in Columbus Ohio or Crusin Classics in Grove City? Also, someone mentioned getting a NOS cam and lifters for originality and I happened to come across both however I need to verify the part numbers. Does anyone know where I can get a complete list of original part numbers? I am going to get an assembly manual but I want to make sure it has the correct part numbers including for the engine.

 

[BlueSS454]

Thanks for the update. Would anyone have any information on Crusin Classics in Columbus Ohio or Crusin Classics in Grove City? Also, someone mentioned getting a NOS cam and lifters for originality and I happened to come across both however I need to verify the part numbers. Does anyone know where I can get a complete list of original part numbers? I am going to get an assembly manual but I want to make sure it has the correct part numbers including for the engine.

Besides the assembly manual which will have very part number for the car, you should pick yourself up a copy of the Purple Book, the Chevelle & El Camino ID Model Codes. You can get it through Ausleys.

 

[68C427GO!]

Luther

first very sorry for your loss. of course judging by the pictures looks like it don’t need much, but I’m sure it does as you said. Just my suggestion to avoid or limit the body shop jail time, which I don’t know if that matters, I would split restoration up some.
1. One good recommended shop to pull engine and trany out and go thru it as you like. Maybe little head work, few extra ponies never hurts.
2. now that there’s no engine take car to shop that can clean up engine bay (have it towed of course) clean under carriage and chassis. A good place can scrub chassis and rear end and paint the bottom with single stage paint satin finish including eng bay and will look amazing. also have this shop address any floor pan or trunk repairs.
3. Take car back to mechanic to put engine and trany back in, put new u-joints in.
4. got a driving car again. Now go get the car painted, have them remove all chrome trims, any chrome replanting now’s the time. Find a chrome shop and have them give you the parts and you get them plated. Save a ton of time and maybe some mula.
5. seek out a upholstory shop. Might wanna get new carpet, seats redone, maybe headliner.

I know it’s easy to here take the car and see you in 2 yrs…. Oh and here’s $70k or $80k thanks.

yeah I’d micro manage this restoration definitely.

 

[Lcarter114]

Luther

first very sorry for your loss. of course judging by the pictures looks like it don’t need much, but I’m sure it does as you said. Just my suggestion to avoid or limit the body shop jail time, which I don’t know if that matters, I would split restoration up some.
1. One good recommended shop to pull engine and trany out and go thru it as you like. Maybe little head work, few extra ponies never hurts.
2. now that there’s no engine take car to shop that can clean up engine bay (have it towed of course) clean under carriage and chassis. A good place can scrub chassis and rear end and paint the bottom with single stage paint satin finish including eng bay and will look amazing. also have this shop address any floor pan or trunk repairs.
3. Take car back to mechanic to put engine and trany back in, put new u-joints in.
4. got a driving car again. Now go get the car painted, have them remove all chrome trims, any chrome replanting now’s the time. Find a chrome shop and have them give you the parts and you get them plated. Save a ton of time and maybe some mula.
5. seek out a upholstory shop. Might wanna get new carpet, seats redone, maybe headliner.

I know it’s easy to here take the car and see you in 2 yrs…. Oh and here’s $70k or $80k thanks.

yeah I’d micro manage this restoration definitely.

I have considered breaking it up. I can pull the engine and transmission and take them somewhere myself, that is not a problem. I will just be on the hunt for a good engine guy. The body work is where I definitely have not skills or paitence...lol. Thanks for the suggestion.

 

[roadster601]

hello you guys, i have been restoring cars for many years im 72 and getting tired , honestly i did not read all the conversations here what you have to do is say to yourself what do you want to do with the car drive it show it sit in it whatever, was/is this your dads car what was his intention is the car all original, i know how do we know, you look for a reputiable shop who can give you these answers. then go from there the best thing you did was post things on this web site all car guys here to me they are the best. some are just into certain areas some into everything.. so much to plug the site these guys are great and can get you to a person or garage to get you going, my 1970 chevelle SS is all original down to lug nuts and worth 140 k thats just me, the first thing you have to secure many dollars to get this project going to completion.. are all numbers correct on everything unless you know the car from having it since new you will have a hard task ahead of you, and if everything is good you will have a nice high buck car.. unlwss you guys have plenty of cash or skills to repair after its all done, you will be over careful when to use the car you may say your not but you will be, well thats what i have now if you need any ideas guidence let me know i wish you well good luck and happy motoring to you LOU

 

[dane63]

Luther

first very sorry for your loss. of course judging by the pictures looks like it don’t need much, but I’m sure it does as you said. Just my suggestion to avoid or limit the body shop jail time, which I don’t know if that matters, I would split restoration up some.
1. One good recommended shop to pull engine and trany out and go thru it as you like. Maybe little head work, few extra ponies never hurts.
2. now that there’s no engine take car to shop that can clean up engine bay (have it towed of course) clean under carriage and chassis. A good place can scrub chassis and rear end and paint the bottom with single stage paint satin finish including eng bay and will look amazing. also have this shop address any floor pan or trunk repairs.
3. Take car back to mechanic to put engine and trany back in, put new u-joints in.
4. got a driving car again. Now go get the car painted, have them remove all chrome trims, any chrome replanting now’s the time. Find a chrome shop and have them give you the parts and you get them plated. Save a ton of time and maybe some mula.
5. seek out a upholstory shop. Might wanna get new carpet, seats redone, maybe headliner.

I know it’s easy to here take the car and see you in 2 yrs…. Oh and here’s $70k or $80k thanks.

yeah I’d micro manage this restoration definitely.

The trim is not chrome, it is stainless and you don't rechrome it as mentioned above, but find someone to repair and polish it for you!

 

[Lcarter114]

The trim is not chrome, it is stainless and you don't rechrome it as mentioned above, but find someone to repair and polish it for you!

Thanks for the info. I learn something new everyday.