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I have about five acres that is covered in prairie grass, Yucca and low growing cactus that I need to try to mow twice a year. I have an ATV and have been considering a tow-behind rough cut mower. I've looked at Swisher, DR, Agri-Fab and Estate brands and would appreciate any recommendations, cautions, pros/cons, etc. from those who have had experience with these types of mowers.

Thanks in advance,
Dave
 

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I have a Swisher 40" trail mower with a 11 HP Briggs. I bought it for the back 3 acres....It is not enough for the rough stuff. The next one up was for the rougher stuff. but the price almost doubled.

I think if I get it bush hogged once, i can keep it under control with the Swisher.

I had to modify the tension pulley to keep the belt from jumping. other than that, it's ok. I plan to relocate the wheels to make it sit higher.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I have a Swisher 40" trail mower with a 11 HP Briggs. I bought it for the back 3 acres....It is not enough for the rough stuff. The next one up was for the rougher stuff. but the price almost doubled.

I think if I get it bush hogged once, i can keep it under control with the Swisher.

I had to modify the tension pulley to keep the belt from jumping. other than that, it's ok. I plan to relocate the wheels to make it sit higher.
That's good information. I've seen a common thread of belt issues in the various reviews I've read. I also have to be more concerned about the hp rating, as I'm at over 6,000 ft. elevation -- a 14 hp responds like a 10 hp here. How would you rate the overall quality of your Swisher mower, and have you used or had experience with any other brands?

Thanks,
Dave
 

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DG, I am having the belt jumping problem, too. If you tighten up the pulley, but it's still jumping, does it just mean that you need a new belt? I'm not a mechanic at all but I want to know what to tell my son. Is there any more detail you can tell me about adjusting the pulley? Thanks!
 

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Leigh,
The tension design on the Swisher is kinda dumb. If you turn the nut too far you pull the spring right off the tension rod....so I used my welder to add material to the "edges of the rod". The rod has a flared end that is supposed to be wedged into the spring. This prevents the rod from pulling out. But too much tension and it pulls out. If you don't have a welder, you could do the same thing by swapping the rod with all-thread and using a washer and a nut to keep the spring on there.

I also told my wife to make sure she does not run out of gas in high grass. Seemed like every time it happened it would jump the belt. I may try to find a bigger tank than the 1 gallon.

I suspect I may have to grease the spindles a little more aggressively because of the increased tension. Might wear the belt out a bit faster. I will probably buy a new belt, label it and hang it in the barn.

The braking system stops the mower blades (and the belt) when ever you take the tension off, so don't let me motor run long without cutting.

Overall it's a good mower. In fact, there weren't too many used for sale compared to other brands. They hold their value.

I did use a Craftsman engraver to write the model/serial number on top of one of the side plates. I don't want the sticker becoming unreadable.

DG
 
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