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1972 Chevelle SS 454 M22
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I appreciate that, but it's more of a driver quality pro touring/race car. There are far better examples of 69 Chargers out there.
I still have my Chevelle still runs and looks good..I wish you had the time to do my TA
 

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There is a group of DOH guys that gather in Covington, GA every now and again. I’m keeping an eye on if they are going to do anything this year. If they do, I’m going to try and go.
Sweet, Covington is less than an hour from my house. Definitely give us a shout if that comes to pass.
 

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Stunning Mopar!! Curious how much basecoat you used on this car. I painted my cj5 inside, outside, top to bottom with color and drastically underestimated my base, had to double it. Just curious, since this is twice the mass.
 

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Discussion Starter #228
Stunning Mopar!! Curious how much basecoat you used on this car. I painted my cj5 inside, outside, top to bottom with color and drastically underestimated my base, had to double it. Just curious, since this is twice the mass.
12 quarts of sprayable basecoat were used to do the whole outside, engine bay and inside trunk. I have a half pint of reduced basecoat left.
 

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So, 1 to 1? That's almost 1.5 gallons, so must be a very good base. Never shot or bought orange, but I'd guess it's at the upper end in cost. Take that back, I bought a pint of Omni hugger for shooting chevy blocks and was very disappointed...took 6 coats to hide.
 

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Discussion Starter #230
So, 1 to 1? That's almost 1.5 gallons, so must be a very good base. Never shot or bought orange, but I'd guess it's at the upper end in cost. Take that back, I bought a pint of Omni hugger for shooting chevy blocks and was very disappointed...took 6 coats to hide.
Correct, 1:1. It’s BASF/RM and it did cover pretty well. There are 2 coats for coverage then a drop coat since it has metallic in it. Some oranges can be very transparent. When I did the car the first time I used DuPont Chromabase which too 4 coats to cover. And yes orange is ungodly expensive. It was $1600 just for the color.
 

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Correct, 1:1. It’s BASF/RM and it did cover pretty well. There are 2 coats for coverage then a drop coat since it has metallic in it. Some oranges can be very transparent. When I did the car the first time I used DuPont Chromabase which too 4 coats to cover. And yes orange is ungodly expensive. It was $1600 just for the color.
Curious, How would you shoot a drop coat?
 

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Discussion Starter #232
Curious, How would you shoot a drop coat?
Pull the gun back a bit and move in an adjacent direction from the last pass. I do it on a 45 degree angle. You have to move a little quicker too. All it does is even out the metallic do it doesn’t pool or mottle.
 

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Pull the gun back a bit and move in an adjacent direction from the last pass. I do it on a 45 degree angle. You have to move a little quicker too. All it does is even out the metallic do it doesn’t pool or mottle.
Thanks for the reply. I'm familiar with the technique, just never heard to it referred to as a drop coat.
 

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Discussion Starter #237
So here is something I’ve been battling with this thing. Since there is nothing but aftermarket parts to improve the handling and steering, I ran into an issue trying to get the steering set right. The steering box and column were dead center. The steering linkage, however, would not fall into place. I typically turn the tie rods all the way in, then equal turns out to get the toe in close enough to get to the alignment shop. That wasn’t happening this time. It appeared as if the center link was offset to the right about an inch. I racked my brain for days trying to figure out what was wrong and it occurred...aftermarket parts aren’t playing nice together. There is a steering box from Borgeson. Tie rods, sleeves, and idler from Moog, OEM steering center link (not made as its a non wear part), and pitman arm from Pro Forged. Keep in mind all of the steering linkage was trashed from the collision. There was no immediate solution known as I spent hours researching this problem and calling parts manufacturers. The pitman arm and steering box shaft are keyed just like a GM Sagniaw box is so it can only go on one way. It appears as if either one of those items were off by 1 spline.
The solution...cut grooves in the large splines of the pitman arm so it can be clocked to correct the problem.

Before: you can see the difference in turnout of the tie rods.

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Cutting the grooves with a triangle file. This was tedious and time consuming.

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Fixed. Toe in set to 1/16”

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Discussion Starter #239
Tom,
Could the steering gear box have been off by one tooth?
Something was off by 1 tooth. It was either cut grooves in the pitman arm or remove 4 splines from the sector gear. This was easier.
 

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Had to recut the pitman in my cj5, they use a sag box but have a unique pitman orientations since they angle the box at a 7 degree angle. Lucky, a sag pitman only uses one orientation spline.
 
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