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Discussion Starter #1
This is the problem of inexperience, sometimes you just don;t know what it should "feel" like.

I stuck a used Hurst Comp Plus in my 67. The first one, which I bought from Wally, worked and felt good except for it was a Camaro shifter. No problem I swapped with a Camaro resto shop locally and got a Chevelle shifter so I could re-install my console. The second shifter feels a bit "funny" across the gate, kinda like I'm pushing against a piece of sheet metal as I come across 2/3 or back again. It works OK and the guy who's painting the car said " It's the best damn Muncie shifter I've ever felt. How did you get it so good?" Easy, I said it's a CompPlus.

Anyway, I sort of kicked myself in the arse for not buying a new shifter ( not with Wally's but with the second one ), since I did so much monkeying around down there. And now I'm putting a new M20 in.

Is this newby imagining the gate feels funny like I'm pushing against a piece of sheet metal? I couldn't get Summit to quote me a price for a shifter sans handle, so the best solution is to remove the shifter, send to Hurst for a $60 rebuild, and then bolt it to the new M20.

Or am I worrying about stuff I shouldn;t be worrying about. I just don't want to screw with the tranny for a long ,long time. thnx for all ur help.

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[This message has been edited by Gene Chas (edited 12-14-99).]
 

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Gene, send the unit to Hurst while the cars being painted. The 60 bucks is well worth it. Did mine some time ago and could not believe how much better/tighter it was. The sheet metal feel may/may not be a problem, he shifter does have spring tension on it to help keep the haddle biased to the left for the 1-2 shift. Use new nylon shift rod bushings (believe my shifter came back with a pack) and use some thin cupped spring washers between the clip and the arm to further tighten things up. Hope that helps..Happy gear banging!!

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Tension to keep it biased to the left? Not here, man. Ours most definitely wants to stay over to the right, which I much prefer anyway since I pull the shifter towards me on the down shift and need the extra push to the rigth when going to third to get it in that gate as quickl and easily as possible.
Just an observation.

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Tom H.
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Indianapolis,IN www.iquest.net/~bharold/chevelle/
 

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Aren't the steel bushings better than the nylon ones? Good tip about thin washers going on before the clip. I have always done this and there is a difference. Feels tighter and keeps the arms in position a little better
 

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I have disassembled, cleaned and re-assmebled both Hurst and GM factory shifters. Sometimes just a good cleaning and lubrication can do wonders. I just completed re-doing my 66 factory unit and it works like new. I completely disassembled the unit, beadblasted the parts, painted, lubricated and re-assembled it. It looks and functions like new. If you have the time you can sometimes save a few bucks by doing these things yourself.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yeah, I'll use the steel bushings + the washers you recommend. BTW, getting the shifter out while the car is in the paint shop is problematic. They need to move it around.

All I know is that Wally's used shifter felt better than this one.

When I got the Chevelle unit, it was grimy as hell. I did not disassemble, just washed it down with parts washer, blew it out, and pumped it full of Lubriplate. Wrong answer?

I recall one of our members saying that these things generally don;t need rebuilding unless they're....? What, that's my question. I can powershift 2/3 at 6500 rpm OK but it feels funny when you;re rowing slow.



[This message has been edited by Gene Chas (edited 12-14-99).]
 

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Is it possible you don't have the shifter rods adjusted properly? Maybe the resistance you are feeling is when the trans is trying to make the transition from 2nd to 3rd without fully disengaging 2nd before it starts in on 3rd. I used to have a similar problem with a 3 on the floor between 1st and 2nd (same motion). It just needed better adjustments on the shifter rods. If it's a Hurst, it should have holes drilled through the levers on the bottom of the shifter body so you can pass a rod through all the arms at once and hold them in neutral tightly while you adjust the various rods a the trans arms.

Worth a look.
 

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BTW: A Hurst shifter should feel much better than a Muncie shifter, so something must really be wrong with your Hurst. They are pretty simple, you can rebuild it yourself with a kit from Hurst. If you don't want to mess with it, send it to Hurst.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Naw,Rich the rods are OK, and the shifter works well ( hey I can powershift with 500 ponies and 500 lbs flowing through it ) at 6500 rpm. I wouldn;t even attempt that with the POS muncie shifter that came with the car. Probably would've missed and grenaded my L88. It just a slightly less positive feel with the second Hurst is all. I'm probably nit-picking.

A rebuild kit, eh? I'll check on that for sure. Time to check out www.mrgasket.com



[This message has been edited by Gene Chas (edited 12-14-99).]
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well, straight to the horses mouth ( or whatever) and the Hurst tech told me that the "spring steel" feel I have is defintiely not right and he actually seemed to know what I was talking about. Rebuild time.

No such animal as a kit.

Oh, BTW, packing it full of grease like I did is a definite NO GO.

Stick-less shifter available as special order only and you might have to wait some time before a production run.

$67.50 and about 6 weeks due to backlog for rebuild.

I guess I should have called Hurst tech first and not cluttered up our server.

But thnx guys.

[This message has been edited by Gene Chas (edited 12-14-99).]
 
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