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Just call the local paint store and was told 1 gallon of PPG DP40 with activator is $270.:( Thats way more than I budgeted for. Shame on me for thinking the Eastwood and Summit brand primers would be close to name brand prices. They offered me a generic for about half that, $140. Still a lot. Anyone have recommendations as far as what "reasonably" priced brands to use. I'm painting over a variety of surfaces, old primer, bare metal, body filler. I don't want to have glaring problems when its done, I just want it to be done right.
 

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U-Tech, Transtar. And I'll catch flak again for not agreeing SPI is the only product on the planet that offers an economical price and good performance. Anyone ever find out where SPI's actual lab is and where they manufacture their products? If you like SPI, that's great, whatever works for you.
 

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I don't think anyone's said it was the only one.

Just that lots of people have used it with good results. It's a much better product than PPG and costs less.
 

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I used Summit's epoxy on the bare shell of the 67 project I'm currently working on. For the price, less than $100 a gallon for the primer/activator, it's outstanding. :thumbsup:

My dad, who's been a bodyman/painter for over 35 years, started the metal work on the passenger 1/4 panel after the car was primed. He was VERY impressed with the adhesive properties of it. Even after he was done hammering dents & prying out two long creases, the primer was undisturbed.

I know many here will frown upon it simply because it isn't a high dollar name brand, but I wouldn't hesitate to use it again.
 

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I posted a their link the last time you asked, you just have to call and ask them.
'

X2 on the SPI epoxy, good product and about $100 a sprayable gal.

As for the DPLF, it's expensive garbage!

Jerry
Don't need the link but thanks. Links are easily obtainable. I don't use DPLF. Stopped using it soon after it's introduction. We used the Old DP and kept it on the system as long as we could until it was no longer obtainable.

SPI says they manufacture their paint from scratch. They also say U-Tech is no good. This should bring up interesting comment from anyone familiar with Sikkens and U-Tech. And those reps were at my place a couple weeks ago. Products bashing by company owners and reps, no matter who they represent, is a little bit of a turn off. Although quite common.

Has anyone here gone to Refinsh Network and asked opinions on products? The ratio of pros to hobbiests is reversed from this and similar sites.
 

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I'm by no means undervaluing the knowledge of a seasoned pro. I do, however, know quite a few in the industry that limit their resources to the salesman that knock on their door and rarely venture beyond local tech support. That only makes perfect sense for a business, however it limits them. Nothing wrong with that. The hobbyist doesn't have that same support, a sales rep or even a jobber is only going to assume the hobbyist isn't competent and that may be true at times. We do have a unique advantage though, the thirst to broaden our knowledge and the time to do so. I've seen and heard many pros refuse to try a certain brand because they simply have no need to gamble with a new product, the price of the specific product will only be passed on to the customer anyways and it does represent a minor cost compared to labor.

I will venture over to that forum Scott as I never read enough when it comes down to new products.

Jerry

Jerry
 

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go back to your PPG store and ask for Shopline epoxy, very similar and a lot cheaper.
 

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Shopline and Omni are the same thing. Jobbers that sell multiple companies products sell Omni. PPG exclusive stores sell Shopline.
I'd skip the PPG stuff all together. I've never seen a PPG epoxy that didn't wipe right off with lacquer thinner.
 

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remember this is the first and most important part of you paint job. do not skimp here get the best stuff you can afford.
Unfortunately this is the line of thinking that causes the confusion. The dollar figure doesn't always set the quality level in some paints. The DPLF isn't cheap but it is garbage and as said earlier it will wipe off w/ either lacquer thinner or u-reducer. As you say, the epoxy applied before filler or when use as a seal-coat is extremely important.

Jerry
 

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Unfortunately this is the line of thinking that causes the confusion. The dollar figure doesn't always set the quality level in some paints. The DPLF isn't cheap but it is garbage and as said earlier it will wipe off w/ either lacquer thinner or u-reducer. As you say, the epoxy applied before filler or when use as a seal-coat is extremely important.

Jerry
I agree with Scott, we used to use the DP for everything until they changed it to DPLF. Worked great as a sealer too.
 

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Thats funny U-tech is no good ;) The old DP was excellent, it also gets my vote,used way back in the mid 80's when I started in this bussiness.It's not so much that SPI is bad,there owner is a dick,that's why I won't use the stuff,and there clear is dog sh!t compared to Sikkens Glasurit or spies.....sorry
 
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