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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My tranny is sitting a little too high in back and the tranny end yoke is hitting the tunnel with three people in the car. The shock mount is correct which only leave the tranny support cross over bar (what ever you call it).

Is it the same for a 4 speed as an automatic?
Is there a way to determine if it's correct without buying another one and comparing them? It seems very close to the floor pan.

Thanks
Scraping in San Jose.




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Chuck Bonasera
Nor-Cal ChevelleCaminos
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http://nor-cal.chevelles.net/chuck.html
 

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Chuck, I am gonna take a shot at this and if what I say sounds ridiculous please bear with me. I am casting about for things that Could cause this. Under normal circumstances there should be somewhere around 1/2 to 3/4 inch clearance between the frame of your car and the floor pan. Its the clearance afforded by the 8 body insulators separating your body and frame. To the best of my recollection you should be able to slide your fingers between the frame and floor pan.If that clearance disappears over time due to the degradation of those insulators replacing them should improve matters. The second thing I would look at would be the transmission mount itself. If it has been oil saturated it can swell. There is an interlock on all the newer stuff that prevents the top and bottom of the mount from separating in the event of total failure however the mount can still swell. I do not think that the older chevelles even had the interlock.. If you were around in the 60's and 70's you will recall that it wasn't until the early 70's that chevrolet came up with interlocking motormounts and I believe the same thing was true for transmission mounts. Ok so my point here is that if you add up these changes in your cars equipment you can see that there are some things that combined can place your floor pan closer to your transmission. Then you add three guys into the mix and further compress things you only aggravate the situation. Your kind of problem is usually age related and also usually caused by several little things that added together bring an undesirable result. Good luck. I will keep an eye on this thread for further developments. Bill

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1970 SS454 LS6 Chevelle, Damn! why did I sell that car?
 

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Ok Chuck I just took a look at your web site. If the car we are talking about is that beautiful black Chevelle I guess you can cancel everything I said about saggy parts and oil soaked mounts.That car looks brand new. I suspect there isn't a drop od oil anywhere on that car but the oil in the pan. *sigh* I wish I had looked at the web before I gave advice. lol ok. a couple of questions.... is that cross member the origional crossmember as far as you know? Is the pad on the cross member that the tranny mount is bolted to welded in front of and on the lower portion of the cross member? when you were doing the restoration did you replace those body insulators?
 

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<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by charbilly2001:
Ok Chuck I just took a look at your web site. If the car we are talking about is that beautiful black Chevelle I guess you can cancel everything I said about saggy parts and oil soaked mounts.That car looks brand new. I suspect there isn't a drop of oil anywhere on that car but the oil in the pan. *sigh* I wish I had looked at the web before I gave advice. lol ok. a couple of questions.... is that cross member the origional crossmember as far as you know? Is the pad on the cross member that the tranny mount is bolted to welded in front of and on the lower portion of the cross member? when you were doing the restoration did you replace those body insulators?<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>



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1970 SS454 LS6 Chevelle, Damn! why did I sell that car?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the great comments about the car!

The mounting bracket is on the back of the tranny cross member and is welded to the top but extends down under the tranny support. It is a "C" shaped piece of steel that the tranny mount sits on and the "C" is pointing down with the flat part of back of the "C" on top where the tranny mount sits. I do not know if the cross member is stock. It was powder coated and pretty....but so what? That was my original question. How do I confirm that the tranny cross member is the correct one?

We replaced the tranny shock mount by measuring the thickness of a bunch of them and putting in the thinnest one (there was only about an 1/8th of an inch difference. The car is a "frame off" with new body bushings.

The car frame looks slightly bent up at the "L" portion of the frame where the tranny cross member sits on the frame, almost like they were trying to raise it up to get a bigger pinion angle, but it is a very minor bend of maybe 1/4 inch.

No other ideas but it must be simple.
Thanks

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Chuck Bonasera
Nor-Cal ChevelleCaminos
[email protected]
http://nor-cal.chevelles.net/chuck.html

[This message has been edited by Chuck B (edited 10-26-2001).]

[This message has been edited by Chuck B (edited 10-26-2001).]
 

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Chuck I just crawled under my '67 and I have a good inch between the front yoke & floor.
I have no ideal which cross member I have as my car was a powerglide origianlly.
The bottom of the C/M tranny flange is flush with the bottom of the main body of the C/M.
Its been a long time since 3 or 4 people have road at once in my '67 but even back than there was always clearce.I don't quite understand your discribtion of the crossmember.I have the C/M out of my old '68 elcamino and it was a powerglide car and that C/M is a little different than the one in my '67 but that could be from the different year? My trans is a muncie as I would guess yours is too, but a T10 should sit the same.
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Brett
'67
SS396
clone
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Brett, Thanks for the effort. Mine is about even with the bottom. it's actually an "n" shaped bracket on the cross member (not a sideways "C"...dah). It's bolted to the back of the crossmember although I don't see how that makes a difference. It can't be upside down (won't wit over the exhaust) and backwords wouldn't give any less height.

Oh well????
Thanks
Chuck

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Chuck Bonasera
Nor-Cal ChevelleCaminos
[email protected]
http://nor-cal.chevelles.net/chuck.html

[This message has been edited by Chuck B (edited 10-26-2001).]
 

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Sounds like the same C/M, the bottom of the "n" tranny flange on mine is flush with the bottom of the C/M body.My trans flange is on the front/engine side of the C/M body.
Nice '67 by the way!
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Brett
 

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Let me throw in a couple thoughts... I'm trying to think back to an old topic about motor mounts, and I think that some were taller than others (all would mount the same engine from what I recall). So what I am thinking is that if you somehow got a shorter motor mount than what should be on your car, it would end up rasing the tail end of the tranny up towards the floor slightly. I don't know if it would be substantial enough to cause a problem, in fact, I might be totally wrong about the whole thing. As far as the crossmember, I'm pretty sure that the manual and auto crossmembers will still maintain the same distance as far as where they mount the tranny up and down.

Good luck,
Steve
 

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Chuck I am totally confused. You say the flange is "bolted" to the BACK of the crossmember? How can that be? Every one I have ever seen is welded to the crossmember and is on the front of the cross member and flush with the bottom circumference of the crossmember. It points forward towards the engine. The transmission "rubber" mount is bolted to that forward facing pad and also bolted to the transmission. If that doesn't describe your set up PLEASE take some pictures of your setup and post them on your web so we all can see what you have.

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1970 SS454 LS6 Chevelle, Damn! why did I sell that car?
 

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I too am confused, I have about 1 1/4 on my 67 with the same set up! Pics. would sure help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
It is welded (did I say bolted??) and in front of the C/M. I think that's the only way it can go. I will put it up on jacks today and remove the C/M and check the perpendicularity (now there's a big word) of the frame where it was bent up slightly (see previous comments). That may buy me a 1/4 inch or so but not a lot. It has the shortest mount we could find to get more down tilt. This is a strange one.
Thanks

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Chuck Bonasera
Nor-Cal ChevelleCaminos
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http://nor-cal.chevelles.net/chuck.html
 

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Chuck don't beat that 1/4" plateau down. its there to stiffen the frame where the cross member sits. It performs the same purpose as the lines and curves in the sheet metal of your car. No lines/curves = sheet metal buckles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks. I am aware of the strengthening function. The entire lower portion is bent up a little. I think it was bent from a floor jack that was used in the middle of the beam and not under the support. I tried to bend it back but I will need a persuader or a body man to get it back down. I think it will give me about a 1/4 inch.

That shouldn't make it that close though.

Thanks.
Chuck
 
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