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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I swapped out my 12 bolt for a Strange 9 inch. I've been crawling out of that crater sized hole ones step at a time (amazing how much changes!) and the next step is the bump stop.

What's your maximum "bottomed out" distance between your axle tube and your frame (the hump that goes over the axle tube)? Because of my fuel pump, I want to limit this distance to be about 3". This leaves a compressed spring distance of 7" from perch to perch. How much does your wheel/tire combo play into this because of the tapered wheel wells on the body?

This has me thinking about over all suspension travel, so I'm wondering what you all have for ride height between the axle tube and frame as well.

Car is a 1971.
 

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Mike, I might be completely overlooking something here, but I have to ask: what does your fuel pump have to do with the rear suspension travel? Where did you mount the fuel pump??? Either way, I know that with the Strange Dana S-60 rear end in my 70 Chevelle, I have about 3" of rear end travel before the top of the rear housing would make contact with the bump stop that's screwed onto the bottom of the rear cross member of the frame.

So I suspect that even with your 9" rear housing, it will be the bump stomp in this same area on your car that hangs above the pumpkin which will limit your rear end travel before the axle tubes make contact with the frame rails. In fact, I'm thinking that because of the rear cross member bump stop, there isn't even any need for the axle tube bumpers. Especially if you use one of the bolt-in rear anti-roll bars.(ie Spohn Performance, BMR Fabrication, HRpartsNstuff).
 

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I swapped out my 12 bolt for a Strange 9 inch. I've been crawling out of that crater sized hole ones step at a time (amazing how much changes!) and the next step is the bump stop.

What's your maximum "bottomed out" distance between your axle tube and your frame (the hump that goes over the axle tube)? Because of my fuel pump, I want to limit this distance to be about 3". This leaves a compressed spring distance of 7" from perch to perch. How much does your wheel/tire combo play into this because of the tapered wheel wells on the body?

This has me thinking about over all suspension travel, so I'm wondering what you all have for ride height between the axle tube and frame as well.

Car is a 1971.

Did the Strange 9" come with bump stop brackets? Can you take a picture and post it or email it? I'm in the process of picking a 9" housing, very few companies include the bump stop bracket.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
No on the bump stops being provided Rick. This Strange 9" didn't come with jack. They couldn't even put a coat of primer on it for me. It was rusted before I got it out of the box. I got the big ford style axle tube ends and they're spacing was out of spec so I had to shim my brake caliper brackets because that's what hold the axle in. I had to grind on the housing/upper ear just to get a bushing in. I had to weld onto their drum brake line tab with a propper c-clip type transition to go from hard to flex line. (The provided a little bendable flange that I welded my c-clip tab onto.) There's no provision for the brake line "Tee" on top to mount to. I had to fab that. Even the oil it came with had been punctured during shipping, so I got an oil soaked box sitting on my sheld with an oil catch pan below it. Yeah, not pleased for the $3k I think I gave for it.

I am putting my weldon fuel pump above my rear differential. I cut the trunk floor some. the pump motor is in the trunk and the pump portion and fittings are below the trunk floor (body). It will syphon gas out of my tank. I will have a box inside the trunk and around the pump to limit noise in the cab of the car. (not building a drag only car)

I do not like the way the single factory bump stop lines up with the 9" center section. It doesn't contact the rubber straight on. Rather it's more of an angle aproach that would rip/shear the rubber. I do have anti roll bar from Spohn.

I am going to screw a jounce type bumper into each of the frame arches above the axle tubes (drill tap the frame). I will then put some box steel on top of the axle tubes and that's where my height adjustment comes in. How I do this part, I'm not sure yet. Probably just cut the box steel to contour to the tube and then tack weld it in place. It'll only see downward force, so I shouldn't need to fully weld it and waste all of my nice clean paint.

What I am doing now, by putting the fuel pump on top of the axle, is making a possible performance versus asthetics trade off. So I'm wanting to make sure I have the travel that I need out back. The pump will be safe for sure, but will the car still turn well is the next question.

I should have 3" of rear suspension travel. But I don't have glass or interior in the car yet, so it's hard to predict that. Basically, I'm not sure what my nominal ride height is. After I drive the car for several weeks, I will go in and install the two jounce bumpers that are spec'ed out for my travel needs. i.e. they absorb some enerby and don't just go thud.
 

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Did the Strange 9" come with bump stop brackets? Can you take a picture and post it or email it? I'm in the process of picking a 9" housing, very few companies include the bump stop bracket.
Rick, FWIW, I was told by another board member here that he purchased his FAB 9 rear from Art Morison with the bump stop brackets welded on, that are identical to the factory GM brackets that came on the 12 bolt rear he had on the car. He claims that Art Morison also offers those brackets with their standard 9" rears as well. I hope this helps you out.
 
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