[Va72Chevelle]

I'm trying to swap rear lower control arms. The upper bolt ( through the frame) is giving me some fits. I got the nut off but can't get the bolt itself out. I've tried hammering the bolt from the inside - nothing. It looks like the head of the bolt is accessible through a hole in the frame rail, but it isn't a straight line and I can't get a socket on it straight and im worried i will strip it. It looks rusted, I've sprayed multiple times with PB, but it won't budge.

Suggestions? Anything I've missed? Do I just need a bigger hammer?

 

[Finally]

It should be in a straight line? That bolt, from the factory, was different than the other rear control arm bolts because of the way it was buried inside the frame. Not really important, and it should slide right out. Is the control arm off? Can you see anything unusual on the inside of the frame where it comes through? Just thinking out loud. Was the hole rusted, did someone tack weld it in?

 

[BillsCamino]

Does the bolt spin??
Bushing sleeve probably rusted to the bolt shank.
Chances are you'll have to slice thru that bolt on both sides of the LCA bushing with a Saw-all.

 

[Va72Chevelle]

The bolt doesn't turn. I can push the arm up and down around tHe bolt but the bolt itself doesn't turn, perhaps the sleeve busted loose from the bushing. It doesn't look like anyone welded the bolt - given that the bolt is accessible only through the frame, I don't see how it could be welded.

Any tips on using a saw? I'm tossing the arm so I'm not worried about damaging it.

 

[Finally]

Okay, I wasn't thinking control arm was still on the bolt. Don't know why, I should have. Anyway, ya sounds like bolt is rusted to sleeve. That's a tight spot but you can try drilling out the rubber bushing. Use a 3/8 or 7/16 bit. Walk it slowly around the bushing at a low rpm. The bit will chew up the rubber and pull itself around and down into the shell. Once the shell and control arm are off you can cut the bolt at the frame.

 

[DrPepper]

If you have access to a Plasma cutter, you could use it to cut the control arm & bolt out.
BUT, because the gas tank is close, be careful of fire.

 

[Hiline51]

Mine were like that. I used the 50/50 ATF and acetone mix for a couple of days and then drove the bolt out with a drift.

 

[Va72Chevelle]

What's a drift?

Update: I was able to finally cut the bolts on both sides of the bushing and pry the control arm out. The picture shows where I am now, with what remains of the bolt seemingly rusted to the frame (driver side, not that it matters). I tried pounding it out but got nowhere.

Do I have an option other than trying to drill out the bolt?

 

[Tom Mobley]

drift = punch, usually a big punch.

Is that a plate welded to the the frame there?

 

[Blownchevelle68]

I'd try the drill first if there is enough room. Even so, start spraying it down with PB blaster or WD40, either way.

 

[Hiline51]

I've had some luck heating similar bolts with a hand torch using MAPP gas instead of LP. That plate almost looks like it's been repaired. I'll be under mine tomorrow removing the control arms, so I'm curious to see what the frame looks like.

 

[Va72Chevelle]

I GOT IT! used a LP torch (don't have whatever a MAPP is), heated it up for 30 seconds and took a big swing with a punch, bolt came right out.

There is a plate of sorts welded to the frame, but I don't know if it's stock or repair. I have one on both sides, not that this means anything one way or the other.

Thanks for the help.

 

[Finally]

Been awhile but I don't recall a plate welded to the frame on my car, I did replace bushings and rear control arms a few years back.

MAPP gas, not sure what MAPP stands for but it comes in a tank just like a small propane torch tank, burns a lot hotter than propane. You can find it at just about any hardware store. If you don't have an ox-acetylene torch MAPP gas is the next best thing for heating things up.

 

[Hiline51]

MAPP will be in a yellow canister. MAPP is a trademark name for a mixture of methylacetyline and propadiene. A commercial plumbing buddy turned me on to it. Burns hotter so it heats fittings faster. The only thing I use regular LP (blue canister) for anymore is heat shrinks (big ones). :thumbsup:

 

[mino65]

Looks like a lot of rot there.,those plates were welded to help support that area from the looks of the pic.

 

[BillsCamino]

Looks like a lot of rot there.,those plates were welded to help support that area from the looks of the pic.

I agree.
Definitely some issues behind that patch plate. I'd recommend looking into this further...critical suspension area.

 

[Hiline51]

x2

 

[dell72]

Both my cars have that plate

 

[OLDED]

I have found that soaking these type rusted fasteners with PB or other penetrant s for several days - then heating them to near red hot and cooling a couple of times will sort of crystallize the rust and then allow knocking them out with a drift or direct hammer strikes. Worth a try.

 

[Va72Chevelle]

Moving on, I finally - 2 hours - got the bushing on the rear end out. The UMI bushing came with something they call a 'thrust washer' (see picture). The instructions are unclear as to whether I need or should use it, and if so, how it goes on. I don't want to wait until they open on Tuesday, does anyone have some input?

As always, thanks in advance for the help.