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Hi guys,

I changed in my 67 Malibu the factory 308 to a 360 big block and want to change to a 496 in 2-3 years. So I want to prepare everything for this 650HP engine.
In 1 month, my new modified TH400 arrives in Germany and meanwhile I want to order a new rear end. (Now it's a 10 bold Chevy)
Now I'm not shure what to order: It seems to be a good Joyce to use a 9" ford rear end like this: http://http://www.quickperformance.com/9-Ford-Complete-Rearend-GM-A-Body-64-67_p_20385.html

My question is, what kind of options should I buy:
-There are 4 types of locker, what is the difference between them?? (Very important question)

-Studs in 2 or 3"? 5x4-3/4" is right, isn't it?

-center section upgrade to the powerful one? (Yes)

-Housing Upgrades
Drain & Fill Plugs w/ Jack Pad [+$55.00]
Adjustable Lower Control Arm Brackets [+$30.00]
Billet Steel Housing Ends w/ Oil Seal Surface [+$75.00]
New Housing Center Piece [+$100.00]
1/4" Heavy Walled Axle Tube [+$30.00]
Back Brace Installed [+$169.00]

Could you help me to decide, what makes sense? It is pretty expensive to get the rear end to Germany, so I don't want to spend more money then I really need.

The goal is to drive the car on the road, no track, make easy nice burnouts an drive the car like every-day-car.

Thanks, eddy
 

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Re: Real end and locker question

For a street car you don't need to over built it, but if you think you might race it later then now is the time to upgrade it.

The 9 inch Ford is a strong rear end when built right. Most of the time 31 spline axles are plenty strong for a street car. Get the nodular iron center with 3.062 bearings. Use a Daytona pinion housing. Aluminum or iron will work fine. For a street car I usually recommend the Eaton Truetrac for the 9 inch. The Traction Lock is too weak and the Auburn is junk. The Detroit Locker is too rough for most people on the street, but works great for drag racing. The drain and fill plugs are nice, but you should never use this fill plug for setting the oil level. Always use the plug in the nodular case for setting the oil level. The back brace is good if you think you may race it later. Adjustable lower brackets are also for racing. If you use the sealed ball bearing axle bearings you will need the housing ends that accept the inner seals.
 

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Re: Real end and locker question

Well, you know what they say about opinions....... but here is my take anyway:

Based on your intended usage (likely overkill for your usage but I like overkill and you never know when you may get the bug to up your game with some sticky tires and a launch or two)

9" (as you are already planning)
Eaton Truetrac (31 spline)
Moser axles (31 spline)
Stock big ford end housing (assuming it matches what you plan on running for brakes, if not choose ends based on your brake choice[I'm running the Explorer disks])
Drain & Fill Plugs w/ Jack Pad (for convenient maintenance)
Nodular center section w/Daytona Support
5 on 4 & 3/4 (unless you are planning on some odd wheel and brake fitment that would drive you to a different bolt pattern)
1/2" 2" studs (for your application, 3" can be a pain for wheel removal if you have max fitment tire/rim combo and are in a situation where you can't get the car lifted by the frame [i.e. on the side of the road])


I would consider adding the following but based on your use they are not needed. They would give you flexibility for the future at a small cost increase.
Adjustable Lower Control Arm Brackets (no brainier, only $30)
Spherical Aluminum Upper Control Arm Bushings ($100 but great to eliminate bind)

Again, for your usage the following would be cool upgrades but not value added:
Back brace
Aluminum center section
other upgrades like a fabricated housing or billet ends


Just my 2 cents and it's worth what you paid for it :)

By the way, I'm running a Quick Performance 9" in my 71 Elco and am very happy with it. Great people to work with.
 

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Re: Real end and locker question

Unless you want to change the Rearend Gearing easily in the future
by just buying another set of Gears & Pumpkin for the 9"
EG. 3.00 to 4.10 or higher
S-Series Nodular Iron Case Assembly * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Daytona Pinion Support with Differential * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Standard Gear & 1350 Series Yoke | Strange Engineering
or
HD Pro Aluminum Case Assembly * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Aluminum Support with Differential * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Standard Gear & 1350 Series Yoke | Strange Engineering

I went the strongest Rearend that would last for me and how I use the car
S60 from Strange
GM A Body Bolt In Fully Welded 360*Tubes / Mounts Installed & Raised 67 Spring Perches /
HousingEnds H 1135 11” Drums / 1350 PinionYoke / S/T Series 35 Spline Axles / ½” Studs /
Axle Bearings / Truetrac(worm type) # OPRS02 posi / Standard Gear Set / U 1600 Steel Pinion Yoke(1350) /
LPW support cover # OPRS06 / Breather Vent / Filler Plug / Drain Plug / LucusOil /
Gearing Ratio 3.70 / Fully Setup # PRSA05
Strange S60 Rear End * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * With GM A-Body*Spring Mounts * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * 35*Spline Alloy*Axles and*Trac-lock Differen

This is for Cruzin and Track time in my 500 - 550 HP 468ci

The Rearend Gearing Ratio is something you have to decide with the TH400 that does not have OD
I went from a 12 Bolt 3.55 to the 3.70 S60
as the RPM difference was only an increase of 200-300 rpms at Cruzin Speed
and gave me a little more go out of the Hole/Launch/first 60'

That 496 with 650HP you are planning to install down the road will need the strength the S60 has for the Street or ........
IMHO
 

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Re: Real end and locker question

That 496 with 650HP you are planning to install down the road will need the strength the S60 has for the Street or ........
IMHO
I shattered the gear set in my 9 inch. An S60 rear is on my wish list.
 
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Re: Real end and locker question

I have the Quick 9 inch with most of the options the OP listed in my 67. I also added the spherical ends as suggested later. I added the GM style ends though so I could bolt on the F body LS style rear discs. Nice piece so far, though I am still in the building stage so no real world test yet...
 
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