[FlameOut]

I have lots of little rust spots on my 67 I'd like to start working on, but the only thing holding me back is primer. Is there a good primer that can bought in a spray can? I'd like to use an epoxy primer, but don't want to go through mixing and using and cleaning a spray gun for a few spots

 

[figbash]

No. Save the spray can stuff for your lawn furniture.

Use a lacquer based primer/surfacer, then you can leave it in the gun until you are finished. Just shoot some thinner through it to clean the fluid nozzle.

Tom

 

[Jimmy P]

Let's start from the beginning. Like good old Mr. Rogers, I'm going to put my sweater and sneakers on now.

OK, Rust? Let's forget all about that bad old primer in a can. It's bad for your car and your happiness.

Remove the rust completely and spray it with E P O X Y. Epoxy was invented to seal metal in the best way possible. Are you planning on primering the spots and working on it later? Canned primer is even a worse choice for that scenerio.

Epoxy is your friend. But if you use rattle can primer, it's OK to feel sad

 

[HowardH]

Rattle can yuck.............:sad::sad::sad:

www.howardsbackyardautobody.com :beers:

 

[davis95]

Every project has it own requirements and limits. When I did my 84 Camaro body about 10 years ago I wound up stripping and bodyworking a section at a time for about 6 weeks until I had it all ready to go to the paint shop. Every time I'd finish what I was doing for the day I'd rattle it out with Krylon "Hot Rod Black" primer. When I finally got it all done I went to my friend's paint shop and he shot a BC/CC finish and it came out pretty-darn nice. Not show, but a respectable driver's paint job which lasted for several years. Do what you gotta do and don't look back!

 

[davis95]

As far as the rust spots, buy a quart each of DP40 and DP401 and just mix a little in a coffee can and brush it on these areas.

 

[figbash]

Every time I'd finish what I was doing for the day I'd rattle it out with Krylon "Hot Rod Black" primer. When I finally got it all done I went to my friend's paint shop and he shot a BC/CC finish and it came out pretty-darn nice.

I'm glad it turned out well for you but you'd have been pretty upset if those primer spots had reacted with the top coat and you had to repaint the car.

Tom

 

[MarMar]

For what it is worth,
While working on my project I have used a rattle can to "hold" an area until I was ready to prime a larger section. I would get the section down to bare metal, do whatever work was needed and then shot the rattle can over it. I used the good stuff from a paint supply store. When I finished all of the small sections, I went back and sanded all of the rattle can stuff off and shot the whole section in the primer of my choice.

Marty

 

[Doug628]

I found some Self Etching primer in a spray can (Part# PLA9988) at Bumper to Bumper for about $7.

 

[Jason Snyder]

No. Save the spray can stuff for your lawn furniture.

Use a lacquer based primer/surfacer, then you can leave it in the gun until you are finished. Just shoot some thinner through it to clean the fluid nozzle.

Tom

I disagree, lacquer thinned primer is nothing but a sponge, its also outdated !
you need to epoxy prime bare metal .If the spots are small you can do the bodywork and spray DTM (direct to metal ) primer its usually a 2 part primer with a catalyst. This is the a great all around primer .