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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hooked up my t-break the other day, never used it before, and while playing around with it today, I noticed if I turn it on and bring the rpms up, it shoots past the converter stall... it was my understanding that the converter should hold the engine at the stall speed or there about...or maybe I read this wrong...
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Reading some of your other posts, it sounds like the converter is too loose for the power you're putting in it.
you bet...did alot of research last night and ended up answering my own question...now I'm probably going to re-install my TCI Breakaway...may not have been the perfect converter for it but sure was alot more fun to drive than with this thing..:sad:
 

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It doesn't shoot past the stall....you are seeing the TRUE stall.

I haven't read your other posts, but if you like the converter, why change it?

Of course your t-brake is going to hold the car better than you can with your regular brakes.

While it's not a good practice all the time, many learn their true stall by using the t-brake, REGARDLESS of what any converter manufacturer advertises.

Stall in the same converter will change depending on the torque of the motor it is bolted up to.

If you like it, it doesn't overheat trans fluid, and it's fast.... have at it!


Sean
 

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Adding to what Sean said, while on a twostep with the transbreak engaged,TCI says the fluid temp. can increase 100 degrees F. per second.:eek:
 

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Adding to what Sean said, while on a twostep with the transbreak engaged,TCI says the fluid temp. can increase 100 degrees F. per second.:eek:
You'll notice if on the convertor for very long the rpm will continue to creep up as the fluid gets hotter/thinner.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
It doesn't shoot past the stall....you are seeing the TRUE stall.

I haven't read your other posts, but if you like the converter, why change it?

Of course your t-brake is going to hold the car better than you can with your regular brakes.

While it's not a good practice all the time, many learn their true stall by using the t-brake, REGARDLESS of what any converter manufacturer advertises.

Stall in the same converter will change depending on the torque of the motor it is bolted up to.

If you like it, it doesn't overheat trans fluid, and it's fast.... have at it!


Sean
yeah I'm not happy with it, 6k isn't going to work out when the motor peaks around 6200...
looks like I'll be going with a Coan ProStreet...they have a special going on.
 

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If you're going to be using a T-brake, I agree that you should get a bit more seroius about your converter choice too. I wouldn't use any off-the-shelf converter if I were you. Any decent converter will require you to fill out a vehicle spec sheet immediately after the purchase, and e-mail it back to the supplier/manufacture, or if ordering over the telephone, will require you to answer questions about your vehicle specs so that the person on the other end can fill out the vehicle spec sheet for you. Any converter purchase that doesn't require you to do that involves a purchase of a cheaper generic piece with a generic stall speed RPM that will come in much different with any given vehicle combo than the adbertised stall speed RPM is.

For instance, even when you order an ATI converter from Summit racing, you'll notice that in the part description, there's a footnote which states that you're required to fill out a vehicle spec sheet. This is NOT the case with the generic off-the-shelf type converters that they sell. And as it was already stated, the RPM you're seeing on the tack when you're up asgainst the converter with the T-brake is the actual stall speed RPM. :yes:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
If you're going to be using a T-brake, I agree that you should get a bit more seroius about your converter choice too. I wouldn't use any off-the-shelf converter if I were you. Any decent converter will require you to fill out a vehicle spec sheet immediately after the purchase, and e-mail it back to the supplier/manufacture, or if ordering over the telephone, will require you to answer questions about your vehicle specs so that the person on the other end can fill out the vehicle spec sheet for you. Any converter purchase that doesn't require you to do that involves a purchase of a cheaper generic piece with a generic stall speed RPM that will come in much different with any given vehicle combo than the adbertised stall speed RPM is.

For instance, even when you order an ATI converter from Summit racing, you'll notice that in the part description, there's a footnote which states that you're required to fill out a vehicle spec sheet. This is NOT the case with the generic off-the-shelf type converters that they sell. And as it was already stated, the RPM you're seeing on the tack when you're up asgainst the converter with the T-brake is the actual stall speed RPM. :yes:

had to fill one of those for Coan this am when I ordered it. Since I'm not going racing or going to use the t-brake, I don't see the need for an expensive piece...Coan's speciall is on their prostreet line, normaly 460, on sale for 350...got a big trans cooler up front, so if end up flashing close to 4k it'll be fine with me...that's really all I'm looking for :beers:
 

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I thought you had said you liked this converter. I misread. Let us know how you make out. Coan makes a great converter!


Sean
 

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had to fill one of those for Coan this am when I ordered it. That's a good sign. Usually an indication that the converter in question is a decent piece. Since I'm not going racing or going to use the t-brake, I don't see the need for an expensive piece...I don't think that you made mention of that before my last post.:beers:
Then why do you have a T-brake if you don't plan on taking the car to the track? You made mention of the T-brake in your first post, so that's why I ask. Did you recently purchase this car with the transmission equipped with a brake? You made it sound like you were going to race this car.
 

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I thought you had said you liked this converter. I misread. Let us know how you make out. Coan makes a great converter!


Sean
Sean, apparently neither my advice nor yours is applicable since he's now claiming that he will not be racing the car (see post#9). The priginal poster isn't making himself very clear. Until he does, I guess that any of our suggestions/comments might not apply.
 

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Flash is what you are getting sitting still and killing the cornvertor. Broken parts is what you'll get keeping at this. Especially if you accidentially launch in the garage......

Steve O.
 

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Flash is what you are getting sitting still and killing the cornvertor. Broken parts is what you'll get keeping at this. Especially if you accidentially launch in the garage......

Steve O.
But isn't what he did basically the same as what some guys with T-brakes do during every run using them at the track? The guys who don't use 2 step ignition boxes I mean. I'm speaking of the guys who run in the "No electronics" classes which at some tracks are now allowed to run T-brakes in those classes up against other guys who only footbrake, but are not allowed to run the things that many tracks consider to be "electronics" such as ignition retard, and 2 step ignition boxes.

If I'm getting this right, then why would doing what he did destroy the converter, or drivetrain parts anymore or any faster than guys who launch at the traxk with T-brakes do? Maybe I misunderstood the point you were making. If so then explain.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Then why do you have a T-brake if you don't plan on taking the car to the track? You made mention of the T-brake in your first post, so that's why I ask. Did you recently purchase this car with the transmission equipped with a brake? You made it sound like you were going to race this car.
got it from a friend for 300 bucks 10 years ago...I think it was a good deal ;) so it's in my car:yes:
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Sean, apparently neither my advice nor yours is applicable since he's now claiming that he will not be racing the car (see post#9). The priginal poster isn't making himself very clear. Until he does, I guess that any of our suggestions/comments might not apply.
you know, I didn't say I was going racing nor it was a race car...you basically assumed it was because of the t-brake...
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Flash is what you are getting sitting still and killing the cornvertor. Broken parts is what you'll get keeping at this. Especially if you accidentially launch in the garage......

Steve O.
nope, done it once, and definetly not in the garage!! gee that's all I need "hunny why is your car in the kitchen now"...:beers:...after trying the t-brake, I went and drove the car around...
 

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you know, I didn't say I was going racing nor it was a race car...you basically assumed it was because of the t-brake...
Obviously I wasn't the only one who thought that you would be racing the car since Sean also was giving you advice applicable to racing. :clonk: But thanks for your explanation that you finally made. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
No problemo!
Got a phone call from Art at Coan first thing this am. All is good. 3900-4200 stall, tight enough for the street with no headaches... Now who wants a jegs converter? I'll throw in a couple acres of swamp land in fl too... Great buy! Lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Thought I'd follow up on this:
Got my Coan converter monday afternoon and got the car back on the ground early evening today. Went for a ride and I'm really please with it. T-brake flash is right is 4500-4700, foot brake it and it over powers the brakes right around 2800, did a 3d gear pull from 45mph and it hits 4500rpms and just pulls hard. Drove it around and its nice, feels a tad looser than my TCI Breakaway (what I had prior to the JEGS XHD).
Obviously, something is just really wrong with the jegs: they advertise it at 3800-4100, state +200rpm for BBC...so unless they mean 500ftbl bbc, I just don't understand why it would flash 6k.
Anyway, my Coan is one of their competion seris, part CAO-20416-1, it's a 9" (245mm). When I talked with Art on the phone, using my 3:73 gear ratio, and estimating the flywheel tq at 575lb, he said it should stall at 3900 and change. Figuring 600lb, he said right about 4100 and change. I'd say it's not far off, and I could have under estimated my tq number too ...but it works for me, was shooting for a true 4000-4500 and I'm right there.
 
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