Team Chevelle banner
1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,387 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am going to be doing this install also but have a few questions

After the tremec is installed and the new tunnel patch completed how difficult is it to remove the tranny?

With all the research I have done and viewing all the writeups on the install I have not seen anything about access to the 2 removable covers on the top of the tranny and also the shifter. Did you guys make removable access panel on the tunnel patch to get at them., or is the transmission easy to remove.?
This is all for a non console car

Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,030 Posts
I bet on never having to take mine out, so my patch has a round hole for the shifter housing with about 1/2" clearance all the way around the vertical cylinder part. Then I covered it with three layers of Dynamat, which over lap the patch/tunnel edges. It would be a major pain to get get my tunnel patch off.

Anyway, I looked it over, and it appears that in a worst case scenario, I could remove the shifter nub off the top of the housing. Then the red anodized cylinder on top would only have to drop a couple of inches to clear the shifter housing before sliding rearward.

Again, I hope I never have to do that :noway:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,387 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I made a small filler panel to access the shifter plate,That way I could rotate the plate and shifter to the front or rear of tranny for shifter comfort.

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r9/sharpierides/67%20Chevelle%20w

agon/HPIM0951LargeWebview.jpg
Very helpful guys, thanks

Did you or anyone else butt weld the tunnel patch to the existing floor pan?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,030 Posts
My brother is a fabulous body guy with 40 years experience, and he and I looked at the situation and said screws would do just fine for my intents, since the frame does most of the structural chores. Getting the edges of the patch to match the edges of the cut would be quite a job. Nice, but more than I was willing to do. My car parks 5' high on a lift, and I can't see the patch mis-match without trying to do so.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,783 Posts
I've removed my tranny 3 times since i installed it and all i have to do to take the seats out and the front carpet peice, remove the tunnel patch that is screwed on and i can pull the tranny and put it back in with no problems. The way my tunnel patch is makes for very hard installation after taking it out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,030 Posts
Brian, off subject, did you dial your bell housing? I had my motor out of the car, and went through quite a process to dial in the bell housing to .003" (max is .005"), including .014" locking dowel pins. But that was easy, the motor was sitting in front of me and I was in a lawn chair. I assembled it all, feeling cool for getting it that close, and then had to remove the trans, bell, clutch, and flywheel to investigate an oil leak. The whole drivetrain was all in the car by then, and I was so pi$$ed off that I just bolted the bell back and hoped the pins did their job. No vibes, so I guess it's OK.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,783 Posts
yes i did dial in my bellhousing. I did it while the engine was in the car. I believe i have up with .003 as well but i dont recall at the moment, but it was for sure within the specs required.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
430 Posts
Very helpful guys, thanks

Did you or anyone else butt weld the tunnel patch to the existing floor pan?
No its lap welded,I left about 1/4 all the way around,Plug welded then full weld then filled it with seam sealer in the lap from the under side to keep it from making noise, I hate rattle boxes!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,387 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
No its lap welded,I left about 1/4 all the way around,Plug welded then full weld then filled it with seam sealer in the lap from the under side to keep it from making noise, I hate rattle boxes!
Thanks Rich :thumbsup:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14,244 Posts
Shouldnt really be an issue removing trans - figure when you remove the crossmember, the whole driveline tilts "down" giving the room needed for removal. Maybe just remove the distributor cap, maybe the fan shroud.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,387 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Shouldnt really be an issue removing trans - figure when you remove the crossmember, the whole driveline tilts "down" giving the room needed for removal. Maybe just remove the distributor cap, maybe the fan shroud.
Thats what I figured Vince, but I seen in a few posts where they mentioned it is a bear to get the tranny out. The 1 fella further back posted he took his tunnel patch out. Maybe I understood it wrong
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,783 Posts
yeah that was me... as you can see i made my patch as close to the tranny as possible



it can be removed no problem, but trying to get the input shaft to slide into the pilot bearing while trying to get the shifter through the hole is nearly impossible. it only takes 15 minutes to take all the front interior out, (body by fisher plates, kick panels, console, seats, carpet)
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
169 Posts
I screwed the patch down so it can be removed. Used a bicycle tube to make a rubber gasket to seal it to the floor.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,783 Posts
haha its not a big deal. i did all my stuff without a lift and all. If i had a lift and a tranny jack... boy i'd pull the tranny just for fun!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,030 Posts
Ya know, the hard part for me is getting the input shaft into the clutch. I got that really cool (IMHO) McLeod twin disc, and have to line up the face of the trans, TWO clutch discs, and the pilot bearing. Even with the spline tool, both times I had to hit the clutch fork to let everything re-align perfectly in real time so it would go in. When it was aligned, it popped right in.

After I removed and re-installed it when it was in the car, I had bruises all over my back from wresling around on the floor. Getting out without removing my patch would be awful.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,120 Posts
Jerry .good thinking ahead of time cause I did a real neat weld in factory looking job with a hole just big enough for the round part of shifter to clear !!!! yes if I ever had to get trans out it would be close
I hope the trans will drop enough to let the shifter stub clear the floor and even worse putting it back in without the tunnel opened up would be a bitch ............ I would make a cover that overlaps the hole seal with a strip of dynamat type product and use Nutserts ..... just helped a friend with a tunnel cover and those nutsert work excellent you need the the tool to install in the drilled hole and then the cover is held down with 11/32 machine thread screws alot better than sheetmetal screws and looks beter from underneath ......... I have heard sometimes the stock Tremec shifter jams so make it easy for your self to get at it FWIW
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top