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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I know this doesn't belong here but I know you guys know the answer and it will save me a bunch of time browsing the net.

I'm redoing my kitchen and I'm replacing the electric cooktop with a gas unit. It's wired 240 for the electric unit and I need 120 for the new cooktop and ventilation. Can I use the existing wire and change it to a 120 circuit at the breaker box or is there something I can use to convert the 240 to 120?
 

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If the existing wire is 10 or 12 gauge you can re-use it but if it's 6 or 8 gauge it'll be too thick for the 120 receptacle to accept. Then, in the panel, switch out your existing breaker for a 15 or 20 amp breaker, depending on the manufacturers recommendation.
 

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Your Elec. Cooktop Should Have A 6-3 Wire Feeding It. If So Ed Is Correct In Saying It Is Not Going To Go In The 15 Or 20 Amp Rec. For The Vent. Depending On You Application And Need You Could Use That 6-3 To Build A Sub Feed Box To Revamp Any Other Elec. Needs You Have, In The Kitchen Or Maybe Basement Etc. Copper Wiring Is Expensive These Days Don't Waste It..
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
It's 8 guage. How do I go about building the sub feed box? It'll have to be something small and surface mount to go inside the cabinet. I'm really only looking to step it down to 120 for a couple of appliances. The wire is run and I'd like to take advantage of it. Running another from the box is out of the question. My second choice is to tie into an existing 120 electrical outlet which is probably not a very good one. Thanks for the help.
 

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Setting a sub panel is NOT a good idea unless your planning to hire a master electrician to help you....there are several issues with location for working clearance's and with separation of grounded and ungrounded conductors.

The load for a gas range/cook top is VERY minimal really just lights and igniter, the blower may be a different story ie: downdraft unit.

Anything that uses electricity is required to have a KW rating tag.....looks like a cowl tag but smaller it will tell you the kilowatt rating or if only 120v item will tell the watts rating ....easy to figure the amp draw from there !!

My advise to you is the simplest solution ...convert the #8 gauge to 120 volt 20 amp circuit and your done. To do this you need to remove the red and black wires from the 40 amp 2 pole breaker they are on now and cap off one of them (leave the length and don't cut it out, so it can be put back later if desired) the other will go into a 20 amp single pole breaker, and yes it will fit.

Now next a #8 will not fit on the screw terminal of a 20 amp receptacle so you will reduce it to #12 gauge. stub your 8-3 wire through your cabinet under you cook top then surface mount a 1900 box over the wire ,pigtail off it with a piece of #12, install a raised cover or a mud ring over the box and then your new 20 amp receptacle.

Make sure you have an 8-3 with ground that 1- red , 1-black , 1- white , and one bare ground. If you have no ground you will need to use the wire that I said to cap in the panal as a ground (re-identify it green for the next guy) and terminate it on the ground bar in your panal. Conversely if you dont have a white wire in your # 8 wire then your spare wire will become your netural and will need to re-marked white and installed onto the netural/ground bar.

I know I've used some terms your not sure of but when you go to your home depot and ask for a "1900 box" or a "mud ring" .."raised cover" they will take you right to it.

I'm a master electrician with 15 years in the service field and if you need ANY help or advice PM me I'll call ya and walk you through anything.......and that goes for any team chevelle member that wants some help !!
 

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I think this should be pointed out. There are 15 Amp duplex receptacles and there are 20 Amp duplex receptacles. Make sure you get a 20 Amp receptacle if using a 20 Amp breaker. The receptacle will specify the rating, typically the 20 A will have one T shaped slot.
 
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