Still not sure about the drain test?With or with-out kill switch??
We are talking about kill switch in the trunk, correct? Do the test with it on and off. With it off there definitely should be no drain, hence the test light should be off. If the test light is on with the switch off, the drain can be only coming from the alt, alt charge wire, or the switch itself. With the switch on, and everything turned off, there still should be no drain. If the test light is on, start disconnecting things one at a time till the light goes out to find out the problem. This can include removing fuses, bulbs, and disconnecting plugs or cutting wires.
You push the brake all the gauge lights come on.Trying to trace down how they have tied the gauge lights into the brake switch with-out any luck yet.Also if you turn on the head lights and push the brake with the turn on the gauge lights all flash.What a mess. On the pass-side with the head lights on the turn signal won't work at all.THANKS
Sounds like you have several issues. What a mess, I agree. Work on one problem at a time, it will be much easier to make progress. Do the parking lamps also come on when the brake petal is pushed? Check the front of the car also, they may be dim. The brake light circuit is simple, there is battery power on one side of the brake light switch, the other side goes out to the bulbs and then to ground. First remove the brake light bulbs one at a time and test the brakes again, to see if the gauge lights come on. This will tell you if the problem is before or after the bulb. Post back. Somewhere between the brake light switch and the bulbs, power is getting into the parking lamp circuit,( the parking lamp circuit also powers the gauge light circuit) . This is backfeeding, and it could be anywhere, even at the turn signal switch, but we will start at the bulbs first.